(Topic ID: 87139)

I thought pinball machine cabinets had square corners =8-(

By Golgotha

8 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 6 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 years ago by terryb
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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    Comiskey-BG2.JPG

    #1 8 years ago

    I am restoring a cool 1968 Williams Comisky Park. Haven't heard of that game? I created it based off of a Ball Park. I have completely disassembled and sanded the cabinet and head to bare wood. Over the years the edges in MANY sections have been damaged. I have two questions:

    1. What is the best wood fill product to recreate the cabinet edges. I already have my artwork designed and ready to be printed on Vinyl. I want the cabinet edges to look minty. I have used various products over the years but never found one that stood out. Opinions are greatly appreciated.

    2. What product is the best to print on? I default to a 3M product, what specific product. My goal is to use a similar product that is currently used by Stern.

    Thanks So much,
    Dave

    Grandstands-bleachers.JPGComiskey-BG2.JPG

    #2 8 years ago

    I can't help with your requests, but that game is very similar to the williams Slugfest. I have also seen a similar game in which you would roll quarters into holes to advance runners. The runners look just like this games! Quite a nice find, I like the baseball themed games.

    #3 8 years ago

    I like both of the following products for corners and structural areas: Abatron WoodEpox or J-B WELD Wood Restore Premium Epoxy Putty.

    #4 8 years ago

    Believe it or not, lots of folks use car bondo. Works great and hardens quickly.

    #5 8 years ago

    I am in Arizona do any of the above mentioned products work better in the heat when applying? It was 95 degrees today. If anyone is interested I uploaded the cabinet artwork. For those non-Chicagoans... On the head The graphics that separates the North Side from the South Side is the Chicago City Flag.

    Chicago-Cab-Front.jpg Chicago-Cab-Sides.jpg Chicago-Head-Sides.jpg
    #6 8 years ago

    Bondo has a very fast setting time, which could be further affected by the heat (I don't know this, just guessing). The others I mentioned are true epoxies (they're elastomeric) and have a longer working time. I've used both in 90 degree temps with no problems. If you do go the Bondo route, get the wood Bondo since it will expand and contract with temperature at the same rate as wood where the car Bondo is designed to expand/contract with metal.

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