So I was doing my second coat of clear after my first one. Mid throught the second pass my gun clogged up for 2 seconds and spattered a gizzilion dime size air pockets in the clear. Needless to say I think I have a shitload of sanding to do but is there a way I can sand down without going too far and secondly is there some other adjustment I can make so that the gun doesn't clog up? bigger needle maybe? Should I use higher grit to bring down the clear?

I am really bummed out.

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I'm using a turbine 3 stage. So air is continous. Maybe opeh up to valve more at the tip of the gun. Can these be fixed anyways?

I run a full 400cc of lacquer throught the gun at the end take off the nozzle tip off, the needle and unscrew the tip, I ran a brush throught the opening.

I did however mix the clear in the same cup as the old clear. Didn't think much of it. There was dry clear in the bottom.... could that have something to do with it?

We'll those are two things I've just learned not to re-do. Now onto the elbow grease tomorrow to try and fix this thing.

I've done a serach on the internet for nib block and not getting one hit in canada....???? Could you find that at Lowes or Home Depot?

The good news is....after 3 hours of sanding 80% of the marks are gone. Bad news...still about anohter 2 hours of sanding to get it all out.

I was told to use 600.....is 400 too harsh? Hell, if I can use 400 it will save me a lot of time and elbow pain.

thanks for the advice

Oh believe me by the time the next batch of clear goes in my gun it will be triple distilled. Gonna finner than the best vodka out there LOL. I'm still going to be very nervous applying the next coat. I just for additional insurance, I'm going to run 600cc of lacquer thinner through the gun before I shoot.

On a side note, does anyone know which mask to us when spraying.... I got a P100 mask but can still smell the fumes, I added a p95 mask over each cartridge which is better but I can still smell the stuff. It's not good for the lungs so I just wanted to know what you guys use.

Well after a few days here and there throughout the month I've managed to fix all the problems that plague my playfield. It came with tough lessons learned and sore elbow muscles.....note to self...

Here are the lessons learned
1. When applying frisket to the playfield....make sure you mask enough of it and tape around all the edges of the wax tape (I had acrylic paint seep through an opening that wasn't even .5 inches and it sprayed black all over the playfield under the wax sheet and onto newly laid acrylic...needlesss to say that I had to repaint that section.)

2. Get a good exacto knife with a good grip so you can achieve nice curves and be more precise...The cheap once cut no problem but they are a bitch to handle and reek havoc on your wrist tendons...

3. GET A GOOD Respirator. Smelling lacquer thinner fumes is not a good thing.

4. Take your time. I found that when spraying my clearcoat I was sweeping too fast which in turn caused some pencil poin canvities here and there. Slow and steddy is the way to go.

5. DO NOT USE THE SAME CUP TO MIX YOUR CLEAR. Or if you are using the same cup...make sure it glass and that it is ultra clean. To be sure run your mix through a sifter.

6. Don't wait to long before you sand (do it after 24 hours). Clearcoat becomes incredibly hard after 2 weeks = more elbow grease to sand down the problems.

7. Add a small dab of dishsoap to the water when you wet sand...makes it alot easier.

8. Enjoy your hard work and reassemble your playfield.

Anyword of wisdom, I'm about to paint the cabinet???

Note: the stuff inside the putting green area is actual clear that I have to cut out. It's real thick.

I tried forever to find insert decals...and they don't exist. You can however create your own. Their is a thread on here that talks about how to do it but I can't remember where it is.