(Topic ID: 262725)

I should not have done it.


By Markim

5 months ago



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  • Latest reply 56 days ago by pinzrfun
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There are 170 posts in this topic. You are on page 4 of 4.
#151 5 months ago
Quoted from Markim:

I will lift the play field up and prop something under it to keep it there.

For the trough switches, it's actually easier to go in through the coin door.

There is a small metal plate (sometimes attached - some operators would chuck it) that protects the trough switches. Held on by one or two screws.

Remove that, then you'll see the switches.

The #1 trough switch (the one in the ball lift chamber) is actually a switch actuated by a metal pin. That metal pin is sometimes lubricated, and becomes rusted or gummy and doesn't pop up and down - it's all based on the tension of the long blade of the trough #1 switch. That switch -must- with a capital M open and close as the balls are lifted and a new one rolls in.

With the game off, you can manually push up on the bar that is connected to the lift elevator and lift up a ball to observe the action. If you do it just a little bit, you can roll it back as well to ensure the ball is actuating the pin in the #1 trough.

The other switches will be actuated by a piece of metal. When the ball leaves the switch, they should change state. If they don't, the switch or the metal piece need adjusting. Note that you cannot adjust the metal piece directly and you'll snap it if you try tweaking it with a pair of pliers. You have to push the leaves of the switch around if it is in the wrong spot.

We'll cross that bridge when we get there.

For lifting the playfield, you have to unscrew the four screws on the perimeter of the playfield (on top), then pull back the plunger and lift using a finger inside the bottommost hole.

When you lift, lift as close to straight up as possible. The shutter motor is in the back and switches on it can get tweaked if you pull too quickly or too much forward. Unlikely to happen on this particular game, but still possible and a good habit.

As you lift up, you'll see the shutter motor. Pull the playfield up and forward (towards you), until it is almost vertical. You should see a small wooden channel on the sides. Pull playfield towards notch in vertical position, then you can lay the playfield on the head, gently. It will remain there while you're looking at the guts.

Note that you should not turn the game on unless you are prepared to catch balls. The game will have no way of knowing if a ball has lifted and just go crazy lifting until there are no more. To stop this, either hold down the shooter lane switch (the one directly outside of the ball elevator) while turning on, or just catch the balls. It's not as bad as it sounds, but surprising the first time or two. If a ball drops down, be careful as it will be near a 120V source for the power switch. Unplug the game before retrieving just to be safe.

#152 5 months ago
Quoted from bingopodcast:

For the trough switches, it's actually easier to go in through the coin door.
There is a small metal plate (sometimes attached - some operators would chuck it) that protects the trough switches. Held on by one or two screws.
Remove that, then you'll see the switches.
The #1 trough switch (the one in the ball lift chamber) is actually a switch actuated by a metal pin. That metal pin is sometimes lubricated, and becomes rusted or gummy and doesn't pop up and down - it's all based on the tension of the long blade of the trough #1 switch. That switch -must- with a capital M open and close as the balls are lifted and a new one rolls in.
With the game off, you can manually push up on the bar that is connected to the lift elevator and lift up a ball to observe the action. If you do it just a little bit, you can roll it back as well to ensure the ball is actuating the pin in the #1 trough.
The other switches will be actuated by a piece of metal. When the ball leaves the switch, they should change state. If they don't, the switch or the metal piece need adjusting. Note that you cannot adjust the metal piece directly and you'll snap it if you try tweaking it with a pair of pliers. You have to push the leaves of the switch around if it is in the wrong spot.
We'll cross that bridge when we get there.
For lifting the playfield, you have to unscrew the four screws on the perimeter of the playfield (on top), then pull back the plunger and lift using a finger inside the bottommost hole.
When you lift, lift as close to straight up as possible. The shutter motor is in the back and switches on it can get tweaked if you pull too quickly or too much forward. Unlikely to happen on this particular game, but still possible and a good habit.
As you lift up, you'll see the shutter motor. Pull the playfield up and forward (towards you), until it is almost vertical. You should see a small wooden channel on the sides. Pull playfield towards notch in vertical position, then you can lay the playfield on the head, gently. It will remain there while you're looking at the guts.
Note that you should not turn the game on unless you are prepared to catch balls. The game will have no way of knowing if a ball has lifted and just go crazy lifting until there are no more. To stop this, either hold down the shooter lane switch (the one directly outside of the ball elevator) while turning on, or just catch the balls. It's not as bad as it sounds, but surprising the first time or two. If a ball drops down, be careful as it will be near a 120V source for the power switch. Unplug the game before retrieving just to be safe.

Nick you may have got me working. I did lift the play field to vacuum and clean all the switches and such with alcohol. I think the the #1 trough switch needed a bit of tweaking it did not seem to lift the metal pin all the way up when a ball was not on the metal pin and make a good contact with the lower blade. Powered it back on and it lifted a ball but it would not take a coin and spin the trip bank resulting in a tilt. I had seen this before so I wiggled the come back later cam on the side of the machine and it would now take a coin and reset. Things now are now a bit different.
The R button now works after the 3rd ball and you see the search relays activate
The timer will keep stepping during game play
The B2 relay will set after the 2nd ball goes through the gate
The B3 relay will set after the 3rd ball goes through the gate
And for the first time I got replays added to the counter with a bit of Manual ball placement action.

All good news and thanks to everyone for the help especially Nick! I am surely not done yet, but much farther than I was a week ago. I know that all the steppers need a good cleaning.

I really have to figure out the game play and re-read information Nick has placed here. I did manually set three in a row and did NOT win when R was pressed. (1st picture)

I set 5 in a row and won like 48 replays. (2nd picture)

I set three in a row and won 16 replays (3rd picture)

I am sure I will need more advice, but feeling good about things.
Thanks again,
Mark

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#153 5 months ago

OK that's great. John and others have been steering you in the right direction while I've been sending you on goose chases. Thanks to everyone for chiming in.

Your steppers are definitely fudging things - you may have some dead bulbs or funky sockets, too. The first image none of the odds are lit, this can happen if the odds units didn't make the initial step. If that happens, there are no credits to be won! So it might have behaved appropriately (for what it expected).

Those steppers are called X Score units.

Others, I am not able to enlarge the glass image and I don't remember the odds steps - if the amount of credits won is not correct (numbers are for 3-4-5 in a row), then the most likely suspect is poor operation or continuity on the replay counter units. One for each color. This is especially true for overpays.

If underpaid, the adjustment of the various replay cams index switches and the payout switches located on the top of the replay cams or the back might -might- be a potential problem.

Again, we'll cross that bridge if we need to. I suspect you're just a few stepper cleanings away from 100% functional, though.

#154 5 months ago

Your steppers are definitely fudging things - you may have some dead bulbs or funky sockets, too. The first image none of the odds are lit, this can happen if the odds units didn't make the initial step. If that happens, there are no credits to be won! So it might have behaved appropriately (for what it expected).
..............................................................................................
Easy job........ I would start by cleaning the Green, Yellow, and Red Scoring Units.
I use fine sand paper and Isopropyl ( 90%) alcohol; just to do small areas if I'm lazy!
Otherwise you can take the wipers off and use a green scrub pad like Keith did in the
video I posted in Post #97.

#155 5 months ago
Quoted from bingopodcast:

For initial cleaning, I've seen good results with many different products. Phil @ cdyn recommends gel gloss, I use gojo hand cleaner (the white stuff without pumice), and others use novus 2 (the plastic cleaner). Any of those would work for your game for cleaning. Afterwards, a coat of wax on top will protect.

Nick is this the stuff you use to clean the play field? Does wax adhere to the play surface after using it? On these older games, did they use paint for the graphics?
Thanks.

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#156 5 months ago
Quoted from JKnPA:

Your steppers are definitely fudging things - you may have some dead bulbs or funky sockets, too. The first image none of the odds are lit, this can happen if the odds units didn't make the initial step. If that happens, there are no credits to be won! So it might have behaved appropriately (for what it expected).
..............................................................................................
Easy job........ I would start by cleaning the Green, Yellow, and Red Scoring Units.
I use fine sand paper and Isopropyl ( 90%) alcohol; just to do small areas if I'm lazy!
Otherwise you can take the wipers off and use a green scrub pad like Keith did in the
video I posted in Post #97.

That video was great. Thanks for posting it. I have to get to those scoring units. They are sluggish, but getting to them is going to be difficult without the front glass key to open it up. Still not sure what to do with that lock. The local auction has two more machines going this Monday. I’m not in the market for anything else at this time other than a 1964 Chicago Coin Mustang Machine if one ever pops up.

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#157 5 months ago
Quoted from Markim:

Nick is this the stuff you use to clean the play field? Does wax adhere to the play surface after using it? On these older games, did they use paint for the graphics?
Thanks.[quoted image]

For what it's worth, you should read through Vid's guide on playfield cleaning and waxing. I'm assuming the Bingo playfield is like a pinball playfield. You may be fine with a quick vacuum, wipe the playfield with Naphtha (Lowes or Home Depot) polish with Novus 2 and then wax.

There are horror stories of people doing various things to playfield that were decent when they started and turned to crap.

I would hate to see you come this far with function and then trash the playfield.

#158 5 months ago
Quoted from Skidave:

For what it's worth, you should read through Vid's guide on playfield cleaning and waxing. I'm assuming the Bingo playfield is like a pinball playfield. You may be fine with a quick vacuum, wipe the playfield with Naphtha (Lowes or Home Depot) polish with Novus 2 and then wax.
There are horror stories of people doing various things to playfield that were decent when they started and turned to crap.
I would hate to see you come this far with function and then trash the playfield.

Thanks and sure will take a look. I did see people using Novus 2 as a cleaner even though it is for plastics. I might try the Naphtha route and wax to begin with. I really would like to use my Meguiars Ultimate Quik Wax. I use it on my Mustangs are it leaves zero white residue and easily comes off. Not sure if it is a water base though.

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#159 5 months ago

Yes, that's the stuff. You can get it at any auto parts store for about $2 a tub. Lasts for several cleanings. Just make sure there's no pumice in it (there shouldn't be, in the white tub).

It is not harmful to the playfield. Especially on older games. It brings out a luster to the original graphics that is very pleasing. The older the game, generally, the more powerful the effect.

Waxing afterwards is fine.

The graphics are silk screened ink.

Novus 2 works, but is abrasive.

Spray waxes generally don't work well on older games. Caranuba wax or Mill wax work well and are relatively easy to apply. Johnson's paste wax will also work.

You will not trash your playfield if you follow my advice. I've repaired a lot of games for myself and customers and cleaned each of them numerous times.

I'm also a fan of Chicago Coin games in the 60s and earlier. Hard to find them, though! Almost every one I've played is really quite interesting from a gameplay standpoint (I mean, for a game with flippers. )

#160 5 months ago
Quoted from Markim:

Still not sure what to do with that lock

If I remember I broke the inner black retaining clip off with a large screwdriver. That way you can get
to one side to remove the glass.
You can always buy a new set of locks/key if you want; but since its in your house, I wouldn't
worry about locking it.
It won't be the last time you take out the Backglass to work on something!

#161 5 months ago
Quoted from JKnPA:

If I remember I broke the inner black retaining clip off with a large screwdriver. That way you can get
to one side to remove the glass.
You can always buy a new set of locks/key if you want; but since its in your house, I wouldn't
worry about locking it.

This is a later model with a single lock at the top - that advice doesn't work, unfortunately. If you can't reach in there with a long screwdriver, and your pick doesn't work, you will have to drill the lock or call a locksmith.

If you drill make SURE you get all the metal buts caught on a towel or something. They will cause serious problems floating around.

#162 5 months ago
Quoted from bingopodcast:

If you still make SURE you get all the metal buts caught on a towel or something. They will cause serious problems floating around.

That is why I did not recommend drilling it.
What ever works........
*** Nick....... Best wishes.

#163 5 months ago

"Markim", it would be REALLY convenient to be able to remove one of your
back glass woods.I'm assuming that the "wood" would be the same set up
as my older "Bikini" machine.
I was wondering how many key combos would there be??
I'm sending you a picture of my key. A good key guy would be able
to make a copy from it,you would think.
That may be a starting point.
Since I have two keys, I would be willing to send you one of mine for trysies,
if it works you make a copy
You would think there should be a finite number of back glass keys, I could see a
lot more combinations of front door keys.
Terry K

Key 1 (resized).JPGKey 2 (resized).JPGKey 3 (resized).JPG
#164 5 months ago
Quoted from Terry1:

"Markim", it would be REALLY convenient to be able to remove one of your
back glass woods.I'm assuming that the "wood" would be the same set up
as my older "Bikini" machine.
I was wondering how many key combos would there be??
I'm sending you a picture of my key. A good key guy would be able
to make a copy from it,you would think.
That may be a starting point.
Since I have two keys, I would be willing to send you one of mine for trysies,
if it works you make a copy
You would think there should be a finite number of back glass keys, I could see a
lot more combinations of front door keys.
Terry K[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Hi Terry, mine is a round 7 pin lock but thanks for helping.
Mark

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#165 5 months ago
Quoted from Markim:

The local auction has two more machines going this Monday. I’m not in the market for anything else at this time other than a 1964 Chicago Coin Mustang Machine if one ever pops up.[quoted image][quoted image]

Meh - Both are turds. Hard pass

#166 5 months ago

things to try:

1] unscrew the nut holding the lock barrel in and see if you can wiggle the lock/wood out far enough to tip it and access the screw in the back.

2] unscrew the metal bracket above the lock and see if that'll give you access to the screw in the back of the lock

3] if you can feel the screw in the back, can you get small vice grips/pliers in and turn it? Once it's loose, you can usually turn it out with your fingers.

4] hold up a shop vac and drill. The backglass will prevent shavings from going into the head, and if the playfield glass is on, you don't have much to worry about.

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#167 5 months ago
Quoted from baldtwit:

things to try:
1] unscrew the nut holding the lock barrel in and see if you can wiggle the lock/wood out far enough to tip it and access the screw in the back.
2] unscrew the metal bracket above the lock and see if that'll give you access to the screw in the back of the lock
3] if you can feel the screw in the back, can you get small vice grips/pliers in and turn it? Once it's loose, you can usually turn it out with your fingers.
4] hold up a shop vac and drill. The backglass will prevent shavings from going into the head, and if the playfield glass is on, you don't have much to worry about.[quoted image]

Thanks, I will try giving those a shot today.
Mark

2 months later
#168 73 days ago

Just thought I would post something....
Did you ever get the lock open?
**** best wishes ****

2 weeks later
#169 57 days ago

markim Any more progress on Miss Universe? I have two of them I got from Coinop Warehouse. After reading about yours and the NOS one belonging to viriiguy , I got inspired to set both of them up and now have them basically working.
If you need any pictures of anything, I'll be happy to post them.

I have a pretty good idea about how the gameplay is supposed to work if you are still puzzled about it. Once I fix a few more lights and minor problems, I will make a video to show how it works. It's actually pretty fun despite being an oddball 3-ball 18-hole game. It spots a lot of numbers and there is some strategy to picking which group of spotted numbers you want. It also has the old-fashioned "put in as many quarters as you want" increasing odds feature.

Basically, you put in a quarter and it resets the game, drops the balls into the trough, raises the first ball to the shooter lane, and (maybe) gives you the first spotted feature. You push the start button 4 more times, and each time additional features may or may not light up ("spot"). When the credits reach zero, if you don't shoot the first ball, you can add another coin and buy 5 more credits (it automatically uses the first one and leaves 4 on the credit reels). The reflex unit determines how often you receive a "goody" for adding a quarter or using a credit. If you've been winning a lot, the odds automagically get tighter and it takes more quarters to get features to light up. If you've been losing, the reflex loosens up and starts spotting features more often.
Before shooting the 1st ball, you can repeat this process (add quarter, push start button 4 more times, add quarter, etc.) indefinitely until you think you have pushed the odds up as high as you can afford. It can take 20-40 credits or more to light up the more advanced features. This phase is also where you will see other features light up, i.e. Corners Score 192 or 384, A-B-C spots, and Red and Yellow Mystery Spots. The more credits you burn up, the more of these features will light.
After you've spent enough quarters or credits, shoot the first ball.
After the ball passes through the top lane switch, the shutter should close. If the red or yellow "Mystery Spot" feature has been spotted, the "Hit Rebound with 2nd Ball for Mystery Spot" will light on the playfield.
Before the 1st ball lands in a hole (I think), the delay timer waits a few seconds, and then the "Press Button Now" lights up (on the left of the backglass). You don't actually have to press the "Spots" button until after the 1st ball lands in a hole. It just lights up and flashes at you to distract you.
After the ball lands in a hole, but before you shoot the 2nd ball, you can now press the "Spots" button and select which group (A, B, or C) of spotted numbers you would like to keep. After the 2nd ball comes up and you shoot it, the "Spots" button is disabled. If you shoot Ball 2 hard enough to hit the rebound switch, you get a Red or Yellow "Mystery" number spotted.
Before you shoot the 3rd ball, if you spotted the "Moving Lines" feature, you can push the "Lines" button and move the colored lines up, down or both (depending how many quarters you dumped in at the beginning). If you have a potential win lined up, move the lines so the color with the highest payout odds is lined up with your numbers.
Shoot the 3rd ball and nudge it into the last hole (if any balls drain without hitting a number, you get to re-shoot until it lands in a number hole). If you have 4 corners, or at least 3 in line vertically or horizontally (no diagonals on this game), you have a winner.
Now, push the "R" button and you should collect your win. It only will pay the highest-scoring win that is lit. This is the only time that the "R" button will do anything. It is inactive during all other parts of the game.
Game is now over, and if you have credits on the reel, you can just push the button to drop the balls and start a new game.

Not a bad game. It definitely has that addictive coin-sucker quality to it.

#170 56 days ago

Clicking on this thread is what I shouldn't have done......

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