Not sure if there is a home switch for the cannon, but if there is check it. Lights not working at all? Fuse blown?

Which ones aren’t working... Inserts, flashers? You likely blew a fuse.

Is the cannon just moving back and forth? It likely thinks there is a ball in it, check the switch.

try isolating the problems further. you need to know exactly what is not functioning on both your mods and lights then you can continue to work through it like a flow chart.
thanks
Blake

- does the backbox kit have any power to it?
- are there any errors showing for the cannon? will it recognize a ball if loaded? im assuming there is a test for both controlling the cannon, firing, and switch test?

I have a pro and assume the setup is the same for the cannon - has two switches at least one is an optic (had to replace a few times) also the game has a cannon test option and will show you the switches getting activated so you might be able to narrow the issue down that way

thats good so you have isolated that part. now pull and test or just replace.
thanks
Blake

also check the opto for registering as well.
thanks
Blake

Did you take each fuse out and test with a meter, or did you just do a visual test?

this would be the first step to take..do that and report back your findings and we will then move on to the transistor

I don't think that a loose connector will have exposed contacts that could short on some metal piece.
Usually the male part is shrouded and the female part poses no risk.

My guess is you knocked something loose when cleaning.
Do the mods work by using the little alligator clips to attach to a flasher?
are they knocked loose?

Did a cable to the cannon become disconnected ?

honestly if you have the board out and a new transistor handy i would just put in a new one. you can learn how to test them with your mm from youtube vids at anytime. but the end result will be the same amount of work. and yes on your board its easy to tell if fuses are good with the LED display.
thanks
Blake

Is it possible a wire just broke free and everything daisy chained to it isn’t working?

I would think a short would blow a fuse.

Your drive 4 is out (J1, pin5), and return 11 (J12, pin 7). Pretty sure you have pulled a wire somewhere along the line. Check the green drive wire that runs between all these switches..
drive (resized).PNG
And the tan return wires from these ones..
return (resized).PNG

I hate to even think about this ........ but I knew someone else this has happened to on a ACDC Prem. Same exact way. Fried multiple chips on several boards and around 30/40 SMT LEDS.

He had a buddy local that repaired surface mount stuff and it still took him a month of back and forth and $$$ to straighten the game out. It was extremely frustrating.

Sorry to hear man. Hopefully not the same situation.

how old is the premium? you can call chas at stern and tell him the issue. stern is very helpful when it comes to diagnostic on their machines. give it a shot.

See if you have 3V at J1, Pin5. Red probe on the pin, black on ground anywhere.

Well I'm pretty sure you're getting a strobing signal from there. The switch drive pulses between 0-4ish volts, so on average you get a percentage of that. On a scope it looks like this..
503C0CE5-8BF8-4A80-985C-619DC8DE6702 (resized).jpeg
In this range though, the difference between 2.65V and 3.1V(which is what I get on a working machine) is significant, so there could be a chip problem, but you would need a scope to be sure. The difference may be in our meters.

I'm not sure on all the ways a chip problem will manifest. I always thought if it was dead it was dead and you'd get nothing. That's how most things fail. I would think you wouldn't get a strobe signal at all.

You should probably check all your switch diodes as well. Occam's razor and all that..

I'm not STERN expert,but know well Williams/Bally/DE/SEGA.

After little investigation from the manual you have Q4 at J1(Switch Columns) for the switch matrix which is 2N3904 and after that go to U1(74LV273).
2N3904 can be test easy-with DMM

Connect the multimeter’s positive probe to the transistor’s base lead(middle leg). Connect the negative probe to the transistor’s one time at to left leg after that to right leg.
After this connect red probe to left black to right.
And after that red probe to the right leg and red to the left leg.

You must not have values under .4 or full short .0
If you have under .4 your transistor is bad and you are lucky.It's cheap and easy for replace.
To be sure on 100% you can compare the values with the other transistors in switch columns-from Q1 to Q8.They are same and muse have same values
If not then may be U1 is bad.

Also trace the connections from J1(5 pin) to U1(9 pin).And from J1(5 pin) to the and of the wire whatever it end under playfield.May be to have broken wire somehow.
This can be do again with DMM.Get both probes no matter which one ant touch them on each of the begin/and trace.If you have connection you must hear "beep" or .001 or .002 lie values.

Do this on shut off machine.

So if Q4 is not bad then U1 must be next suspect.
Or trace/s between Q4 and U1.Check all possible traces from the connector to U1.

Way more simple than either the op or most others are suggesting! Op seems to be more impatient than me(Did not think that was possible, but apparently is), slow down and closely inspect the area where you were working and you will find the problem. You very well might have done additional stuff after the fact, because you started panicking right out of the gate and when you have a sky is falling mentality, more bungles follow.

so the two limit switches for the cannon are ok? like Lermods suggested
I know it's the same setup for the xmen iceman ramp and the crossbow on TWD.

the disk moves till it hits the cherry switch then it moves back till it hits the other cherry switch. Guess that's what's happening, but the other switch isn't closing.

did you do a continuity check btwn the backbox on the J1 green/ yellow wire and the various switches they are connected to?

Just looking over the basics again.

if it's not Q4 then eshhhh. that probably means surface mounting repairs or a new board.

nice dude, congrats!

Also measure the resistors to Q4.Just for sure.

did you check the transistors

Edit: oops I didn't read the whole thread sounds like you figured it out.