(Topic ID: 120450)

I picked up a jokerz


By mrgone

4 years ago



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  • 10 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by JordanB
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#1 4 years ago

I picked up a jokerz last week for $650
It's been sitting in a garage for well over 10 years.
It plays now. Flippers,pop bumpers,and slingshots are all strong.
Lower left drop targets don't always reset.
They will after a ball drain.
Upper left target not regestering.
It has a humming noise. The lights at the upper playfield not working.
Dirty but not in bad shape for what I paid.
I'm going to start cleaning it up.
Also, has remote battery holder. Right now it's not working and have to reset to free play when turned on.
I will be asking for tips soon since I am a pinball repair noob.
Also has a cracked right ramp. I don't notice this until tonight.
It still plays fine and is alot of fun.

#2 4 years ago

Here are some pics
image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg

#3 4 years ago

Upper part of back box lights are out.
Fuse? Short? Demonic possession?image.jpg

#4 4 years ago

Nice pickup. Check for burnt connectors in the backboard and try easy stuff like replacing bulbs. Maybe a bunch of bulbs are burnt out.

#5 4 years ago

another pinsider recently posted a thread about his new jokerz that had a hack that helped with the buzzing. ill see if i can find it...

#7 4 years ago
Quoted from mrgone:

Upper part of back box lights are out.
Fuse? Short? Demonic possession?

Take a look at the interconnect board, J6 plug, (all the wires are either solid yellow, or yellow/white) That is you incoming power for your general illumination lamps.

The interconnect board is the long, narrow board located at the bottom of the backbox. The J6 connector is located on the far right side of the board.

These connectors almost always are burnt and/or hacked.

Replace the old crusty IDC connector with a new Molex version. Also go with trifurcon terminals in your molex connector. When looking at the J6, you'll notice it is a 9 pin plug, with the following wire connections:
pin 1&2 jumper-ed...(meaning, the wire is "looped" from one pin to another).
pin 3&4 jumper-ed
pin 5 key
pin 6&7 jumper-ed
pin 8&9 jumper-ed

When going with a Molex connector, you can't "loop" the wires from one terminal, to the next. You "could" try to crimp 2 wires into each trifurcon terminal, but trust me, you don't want to go that route, it's a PITA to do, and is very unreliable.

Here's what I do on all system 11 J6 connectors:
1st off, mark all of your connectors on the interconnect board as you un-plug them.
remove the board
Inspect the header pins on the J6...replace if corroded or burnt up..(I almost always replace)
***NOTE***
Whether you replace the header pins or not, you will want to re-flow the solder on the back side of the board, adding new solder. While doing this, continue to add excess solder so that create a "solder bridge" between the following pins:
1&2
3&4
6&7
8&9
The reason for this?....you just created a new "jumper" basically, the same thing you see on the jumper-ed wires, only, in this case, you're using solder.
But creating the "solder bridge", you just made the molex connector build a lot simpler. Now all you have to do is crimp one wire into each trifurcon terminal...a total of 4.
When building the new molex connector, I always install the key. The key is usually in place to make your plug connections idiot-proof, meaning you can't plug it in upside down, (reversed). In this case, since pin 5 is keyed, meaning even if the connector is keyed, it's still possible to plucg the connector in reverse...but DON'T try this...you can cause damage.
When you crimp the wires to the new trifurcon terminals, do this one at a time. Clip one wire, strip, crimp, install in to molex connector...Star w/ pin 1. Once crimped, install it in the pin 1 opening of the connector. Continue on to pin 3, clip, strip, crimp...install into #3 opening on the molex. Continue on to pin 6, clip, strip, crimp, install in opening #6. Continue on to the last wire, (#8), clip, strip, crimp, install into #8 opening....you're done, and ready to re-install the board.

The reason J6 is usually burnt/hacked is this:

Electrical resistance causes heat build-up. There is a lot of electricity continuously going thru this connector.

When looking at the header pins, you'll notice the pins are square. The old IDC connector terminals made contact w/ only one surface of the square pin.

By going w/ trifurcon terminals, you are now making contact w/ 3 surfaces of the square header pin, that's what the trifurcon terminals are designed to do.. Better connection=less electrical resistance=less heat build up.

By doing this "upgrade"...you'll never have a problem w/ the J6 again.

#8 4 years ago
Quoted from stainedundies:

here ya go, hopefully something useful.

HA-HA....

Funny you'd post that in this thread.

That particular "hack" was found on one of my recent pinball purchases.

Still waiting word on that particular repair.

I decided not to even attempt to figure out what someone was trying to do there.

I sent that board off to an expert...(aka, John Wart).

EDIT...

coincidentally, that hack was on a HUO Jokerz machine....go figure.

#9 4 years ago

great find . enjoy your game !

5 months later
#10 4 years ago

just did the GI work on my Jokerz. There's a relay board on the back of the door of the backbox which was giving be problems with my lower string of lights (3V instead of 6V). Might want to check the connections there too...

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