EDIT: Is this for Stars? I just found a color map that might be different. Below I typed up what I see on the two pictures you included.

Your picture shows 6 wires. 4 of them the color is labeled But since pin 1 and 2 are GI Return they should probably be jumpered to each other with the red wire. Pins 5 and 8 are GI Bus they should be white and jumpered to each other.

Pin
1 - GI Return - says Red
2 - GI Return - No color listed but looks the same as pin 1
3 - nothing
4 - nothing, key so should be blocked
5 - GI Bus - no color listed but looks the same as pin 8
6 - Solenoid Buss - Yellow
7 - Feature lamp - Blue
8 - GI Bus - White

But you are only showing a piece. I'd look it up better but I'm half out the door.

The jumpering was because of the stress on the pins causing them to burn. Later versions added pin 9 and that was just another pin 5 and 8 since the GI stressed them so much.

If you look at the full drawing (where you posted just the corner) and trace back those wires you will find they become the same wire. Take Pin 1 and 2 (yes, the number in the box) and follow them.

The Red and White are the GI

If the Blue/White wire goes to the flippers that should be the solenoid bus shown as Yellow pin 6.

If the Blue (Teal) wire goes to a controlled lamp socket that should be the feature lamp Blue pin 7

TP2 on the Rectifier board right?

What did you do on the Rectifier Board? Sounds like one of the 4 rectifying diodes CR1 - CR4 is bad or bad Bridge rectifier. I don't know what board you have and is it a replacement / reworked.

This is for the display voltage. If you did the work make sure you upgraded CR1 - CR4 from 1N4004 to 1N4007 diodes and have the bands in the same direction.

Here is a guide:

http://www.southjerseypinball.com/stern/ta-100-16bwiring.png

ta-100_color_(resized).PNG

It is easy to id a wire as the wrong color. I clean them but sometime the trace color get washed out.

Well, from a look at a pic on the internet it looks like tap E5 and E6 are White / Green and Green / White wires. One goes through F2 to the diodes I named the other to those diodes. I say put a DMM set to diode test across CR1 - CR4. quick and simple.

From Pinwiki..

image_(resized).jpeg

I'm late to the party, but here's a pic of my Stars playfield connector, from working game.
IMG_7499_(resized).JPG

There you go. He didn't do the jumper to use the extra pins and that connector does not look burned.

It's a new connector housing repinned with trifurcon connectors. This is the original wiring config. I could've done the jumpers, but I don't really see the need.