(Topic ID: 148345)

I need some help with my Stern Rectifier board.


By dmbjunky

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 14 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by dothedoo
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

You

Linked Games

  • Stars Stern Electronics, 1978

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There have been 3 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

IMG_7499_(resized).JPG
image_(resized).jpeg
ta-100_color_(resized).PNG

#1 4 years ago
Quoted from dmbjunky:

Does anyone have a pic of the J1 connector on the rectifier board of a Stars era machine? I was changing the plastic plug and wasn't paying attention and disconnected the four wires without putting them in the new connector. Very stupid.

Looking for help with this today. I figured out which wires go where. Red and White go to GI, light blue goes to inserts, and Blue/white goes to flippers. Where would these go in the connector?

These are the diagrams I'm looking at but I'm still unsure how to read this. The schematic is not in the right order unless you go by the numbers in the box. Also with the two wires that go to the GI, which ones are the return and which are the "buss". When looking at a bulb socket, the red wire is attached to the bracket that's screwed to the playfield and the white wire is attached to the socket.

Untitled_(resized).png

2_(resized).png

My first impression is the red or white goes in the first hole and fifth hole. Then the blue/white goes in the 6th hole and the light blue goes in the 7th hole. Thanks.

Edit: I did test the pins on the boards.

#2 4 years ago

EDIT: Is this for Stars? I just found a color map that might be different. Below I typed up what I see on the two pictures you included.

Your picture shows 6 wires. 4 of them the color is labeled But since pin 1 and 2 are GI Return they should probably be jumpered to each other with the red wire. Pins 5 and 8 are GI Bus they should be white and jumpered to each other.

Pin
1 - GI Return - says Red
2 - GI Return - No color listed but looks the same as pin 1
3 - nothing
4 - nothing, key so should be blocked
5 - GI Bus - no color listed but looks the same as pin 8
6 - Solenoid Buss - Yellow
7 - Feature lamp - Blue
8 - GI Bus - White

But you are only showing a piece. I'd look it up better but I'm half out the door.

#3 4 years ago

There weren't any jumpers before I changed the plugs. Maybe I'll try without the jumpers first. I noticed that it listed wire colors but I didn't know if they could be trusted because there is no yellow, just a light blue or teal.

#4 4 years ago

The jumpering was because of the stress on the pins causing them to burn. Later versions added pin 9 and that was just another pin 5 and 8 since the GI stressed them so much.

If you look at the full drawing (where you posted just the corner) and trace back those wires you will find they become the same wire. Take Pin 1 and 2 (yes, the number in the box) and follow them.

#5 4 years ago

The Red and White are the GI

If the Blue/White wire goes to the flippers that should be the solenoid bus shown as Yellow pin 6.

If the Blue (Teal) wire goes to a controlled lamp socket that should be the feature lamp Blue pin 7

#6 4 years ago

Well my MPU is not powering up. At test point 2, I'm supposed to have 230VDC but all I have is 104. What's that mean? Is there some place I can test continuity to find the problem?

#7 4 years ago

TP2 on the Rectifier board right?

What did you do on the Rectifier Board? Sounds like one of the 4 rectifying diodes CR1 - CR4 is bad or bad Bridge rectifier. I don't know what board you have and is it a replacement / reworked.

This is for the display voltage. If you did the work make sure you upgraded CR1 - CR4 from 1N4004 to 1N4007 diodes and have the bands in the same direction.

#8 4 years ago
Quoted from Taxman:

What did you do on the Rectifier Board? Sounds like one of the 4 rectifying diodes CR1 - CR4 is bad or bad Bridge rectifier. I don't know what board you have and is it a replacement / reworked.
This is for the display voltage. If you did the work make sure you upgraded CR1 - CR4 from 1N4004 to 1N4007 diodes and have the bands in the same direction.

I bought a refurbished board from Chance Tess at Expo. I hope it's alright because before I realized it, I paid more than a Rottendog board. I soldered the transformer to the board, so I could have done something wrong.

#9 4 years ago

Here is a guide:

http://www.southjerseypinball.com/stern/ta-100-16bwiring.png

ta-100_color_(resized).PNG

It is easy to id a wire as the wrong color. I clean them but sometime the trace color get washed out.

#10 4 years ago

Well, from a look at a pic on the internet it looks like tap E5 and E6 are White / Green and Green / White wires. One goes through F2 to the diodes I named the other to those diodes. I say put a DMM set to diode test across CR1 - CR4. quick and simple.

#11 4 years ago

From Pinwiki..

image_(resized).jpeg

#12 4 years ago

I'm late to the party, but here's a pic of my Stars playfield connector, from working game.
IMG_7499_(resized).JPG

#13 4 years ago

There you go. He didn't do the jumper to use the extra pins and that connector does not look burned.

#14 4 years ago

It's a new connector housing repinned with trifurcon connectors. This is the original wiring config. I could've done the jumpers, but I don't really see the need.

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