(Topic ID: 318191)

I need a little help getting this Bally Joust to start properly...

By drsfmd

1 year ago


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  • 39 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by drsfmd
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motor switches (resized).jpg
Bally Joust Score Motor  (resized).jpg
lift out bottom (resized).jpg
Joust Ball Return (resized).jpg
joust 1 (resized).png
#1 1 year ago

I just picked up a Bally Joust in trade. The playfield is in great shape, the backglass is trash, the interior of the machine is clean and still smells "electromechanical".

When I try to start a game, the score reels reset, etc. but the score motor keeps running because the kickout solenoid doesn't activate. When I flick the ball into the shooter lane, the game will play through that ball just fine, then when it drains the score motor runs again until I flick the next ball out (note: same condition for both 1 and 2 player games).

So, in looking at the order of operations in the documentation from IPDB (https://www.ipdb.org/files/1317/Bally_1969_Joust_Installation_and_General_Game_Operation_Instructions.pdf), I'm making it to at least step 6 (play meter does not advance-- that's step 7). I think the play meter may be broken though, because the reset bank does reset (step 8 - though sometimes I have to manually trip the ball return relay).

So I'm a little stumped. Admittedly, I'm not familiar with this style score motor-- the only other Zale era game I have with this score motor has never given me any problems... the others all have the Gottlieb Style motor.

Schematic here: https://www.ipdb.org/files/1317/Bally_1969_Joust_Schematic_Diagram_continuous.pdf

Open to any ideas you guys might have!

joust 1 (resized).pngjoust 1 (resized).png
#2 1 year ago

There is a truly awful mech In these games related to the score motor - a plastic clutch that can break, and no replacement is available. At least last I checked.

Make sure it isn’t that first.

#3 1 year ago
Quoted from CrazyLevi:

There is a truly awful mech In these games related to the score motor - a plastic clutch that can break, and no replacement is available. At least last I checked.
Make sure it isn’t that first.

Thanks. The score motor (I don't see anything plastic other than the spacers for the cams) and reset bank cams (plastic, but all the little "shark fins" are intact) both turn. See video-- it finished the reset sequence because the ball wasn't in the outhole.

#4 1 year ago

In the video, the second stack has bad switch arcing problem. Find out what the switch controls and troubleshoot that problem.

#5 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballdaveh:

In the video, the second stack has bad switch arcing problem. Find out what the switch controls and troubleshoot that problem.

That's a reflection off the bulb on the play meter, which turns on when you hit the start button, and off a few seconds after the reset finishes.

#6 1 year ago
Quoted from drsfmd:

the score motor keeps running because the kickout solenoid doesn't activate.

The Balll Return kicker solenoid requires that three switches close:
Joust Ball Return (resized).jpgJoust Ball Return (resized).jpg
At the top the Match relay switch is normally closed. The other two, on the score motor and Ball Return relay close when the ball should be kicked to the shooter lane. To find the score motor switch see https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sky-kings-power-free-play-and-top-hole-issue#post-4457680

Any one of those switches could be dirty, or out of adjustment, or have a broken wire, etc.

/Mark

#7 1 year ago

Hope these help , one will save on your back if you weren't already aware

Bally Joust Score Motor  (resized).jpgBally Joust Score Motor (resized).jpglift out bottom (resized).jpglift out bottom (resized).jpg
#8 1 year ago

Thanks. I'll give that a try in the morning. I couldn't get the bottom board to lift out-- not sure why. I removed the two screws, and both of the bolts, but it didn't budge.

I didn't have that score motor documentation in the paperwork I got with the game-- that should help.

#9 1 year ago

to add: it has credits on the credit wheel.

#10 1 year ago
Quoted from chas10e:

Hope these help

Please consider sending a good scan of the Score Motor chart to IPDB.org:
https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1317 -> "Submit Changes" in the upper right.

#11 1 year ago
Quoted from drsfmd:

Thanks. I'll give that a try in the morning. I couldn't get the bottom board to lift out-- not sure why. I removed the two screws, and both of the bolts, but it didn't budge.
I didn't have that score motor documentation in the paperwork I got with the game-- that should help.

The bottom board needs to slide a little bit towards the coin door (step 4)

I always at-least finger-tight the 4 bolts when putting the board back I have moved a game before with the bottom board not secured ...

#12 1 year ago
Quoted from MarkG:

Please consider sending a good scan of the Score Motor chart to IPDB.org:
https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1317 -> "Submit Changes" in the upper right.

Sent a *.PDF ... seemed pretty simple, Thanks

#13 1 year ago

Could someone elaborate on step #8

“Start relay trips clutch trip relay thru #5 cam switch which operates reset motor to reset all trip relays.”

Specifically, what is the reset motor? Is this separate than the score motor?

I’m having a similar issue with my Bally surfers, except that the play count meter steps up endlessly until I turn the machine off. I must have added over 500 games to the meter trying to troubleshoot.

Up till now I believed it’s a burnt step up coil on the ball count unit, which should fire once to step up to ball 1 after resetting score reels and all steppers. But seeing this thread leads me to believe it could be something else.

#14 1 year ago
Quoted from BeachPickle:

Could someone elaborate on step #8
“Start relay trips clutch trip relay thru #5 cam switch which operates reset motor to reset all trip relays.”

For a short time Bally used Motorized Trip Relays instead of conventional trip relays as shown here:
https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/pblg/#p=78
The Reset Motor turns a shaft with many cams that reset the trip relays individually. There are lots of discussions about them on the forum. The Score Motor is something else altogether.

#15 1 year ago

Some progress(?) to report...

I figured out how to lift the bottom board (you have to pull a lot further forward than I realized). I tightened up and cleaned each of the switch stacks on the score motor. Upon putting it back together, the game will *sometimes* kick a ball all the way out... other times the ball return kicks weakly, and does not kick the ball out... and yet other times it doesn't kick out at all.

The play meter *does* count up. Apparently it does not advance when there are credits on the wheel (so it's actually measuring coin drops, not plays). So, it's definitely making it through at least step 8 in the image from my original post.

Now to figure out why the outhole kicker isn't working consistently-- if I can figure that out, I think we're good to go!

I continue to welcome your thoughts... in part, because I don't see anything labeled outhole relaY. I'll take a closer look for those when I have a little more time. Maybe one of those random things that Bally tucked into the headbox rather than where one would typically look for it.

#16 1 year ago

To add… there is an “out hole special” relay.

#17 1 year ago

How far does your machine get in this sequence of events.
With score motor service switch set to off.
Momentarily push the outhole switch.
Outhole relay should close and stay pulled in.
Manually turn score motor cams until cam 1 lifts it’s switch stack.
Ball return relay should pull in and stay pulled in.
Rotate cams until cam 3 drops it’s switch stack. Outhole relay should release and outhole solenoid should fire.
Turn cams until cam 8 drops it’s switch stack and ball return relay releases.

#18 1 year ago

I know what you mean with the service switch, but this game does not appear to have one. There is a spade connector to the motor on the score motor… I can disconnect that and kill power to the motor if that would work.

#19 1 year ago

Yes that’s correct for some Bally machines uses a slip on connector for the service switch.

#20 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballdaveh:

How far does your machine get in this sequence of events.
With score motor service switch set to off.
Momentarily push the outhole switch.

Future reference for anyone reading this... start game to let score motor get to reset position, *then* pull the spade connector to the score motor. When I tried to do this by disconnecting the score motor then turning the game on, it wouldn't do anything.

Quoted from pinballdaveh:

Outhole relay should close and stay pulled in. Manually turn score motor cams until cam 1 lifts it’s switch stack.

Cam 1 has no lifts-- it's normally closed, and there are two notches on the cam that the switches drop into to open (or close the m/b switches). Ball relay and outhole relay both close and stay pulled in. Outhole relay releases when the switches drop into the first notch. The Ball return relay releases just before the switches drop into the notch. Cam 3 seems to have no effect, as there's a lifter on cam 3 in between the two dropouts on cam 1.

Quoted from pinballdaveh:

Ball return relay should pull in and stay pulled in.
Rotate cams until cam 3 drops it’s switch stack. Outhole relay should release and outhole solenoid should fire.
Turn cams until cam 8 drops it’s switch stack and ball return relay releases.

I'm not getting this far.

#21 1 year ago

If the relays are releasing prematurely the 2 score motor normally closed switches to be checked are cam3 switch E and cam 8 switch D. Both are top of the stack switches making the top blade adjustment easier. Clean and adjust switches if needed. Check if relays now hold in and release at the proper time.

#22 1 year ago

Cam 3 Switch E and Cam 8 switch D have both been re-cleaned, and re-adjusted. No change of status. Here's a quick video of what those two relays are doing...

#23 1 year ago

If it’s not the score motor switches then the relays hold switches need to be closely checked because the relays are opening way to early. Hold switches will have a wire going to the coil attached to it.

#24 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballdaveh:

If it’s not the score motor switches then the relays hold switches need to be closely checked because the relays are opening way to early. Hold switches will have a wire going to the coil attached to it.

I checked these. Even when I hold those relays in manually, the kickout only occasionally fires.

#25 1 year ago

If the ball return relay isn’t staying closed check the series of normally closed switches on the 500, 3000, & 5000 point relays that also keep the ball return relay closed. The outhole kicker circuit was described above by MarkG.

#26 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballdaveh:

If the ball return relay isn’t staying closed check the series of normally closed switches on the 500, 3000, & 5000 point relays that also keep the ball return relay closed. The outhole kicker circuit was described above by MarkG.

I will check those as well. Thank you. I'll report back in tonight.

#27 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballdaveh:

If the ball return relay isn’t staying closed check the series of normally closed switches on the 500, 3000, & 5000 point relays that also keep the ball return relay closed. The outhole kicker circuit was described above by MarkG.

Grrrr... all three have been recleaned, and readjusted... no change. I'm getting really frustrated.

#28 1 year ago

hmmmmmm , "fires occasionally" suggests the coil itself is good. could there be a cold solder joint on coil lug or the common line from a previous location ?

Cold solder on a Jones plug?

On score motor, what's Cam 1F ?

#29 1 year ago
Quoted from chas10e:

hmmmmmm , "fires occasionally" suggests the coil itself is good. could there be a cold solder joint on coil lug or the common line from a previous location ?
Cold solder on a Jones plug?

Coil itself is fine. I've closely examined the Jones plugs, and don't see any cold solders... I can reflow them if necessary, but that's a lot of extra work.

Quoted from chas10e:

On score motor, what's Cam 1F ?

Elaborate please... not sure I understand the question.

#30 1 year ago

"Completes pull in circuit for ball return relay" ... I didn't see "score motor 1F" on the snippet of the schematic above

then again you said you manually closed that relay with sporadic results

#31 1 year ago

The ball return relay hold circuit consists of the 3 normally closed switches wired in series on those scoring relays, a normally open switch on the ball return relay ( hold switch), and score motor cam 8 switch D. Once the ball return relay is pulsed, one of those switches is letting the relay coil release almost immediately, instead of releasing it at cam 8.

#32 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballdaveh:

The ball return relay hold circuit consists of the 3 normally closed switches wired in series on those scoring relays, a normally open switch on the ball return relay ( hold switch), and score motor cam 8 switch D. Once the ball return relay is pulsed, one of those switches is letting the relay coil release almost immediately, instead of releasing it at cam 8.

I'll jumper all 4 of those switches closed and see if that "solves" the problem... then remove them one at a time to see when the problem crops up. That should help me isolate the issue. Will report back this evening.

I'll take a look at 1f as well, but I've already been over those switches on the score motor 3 times.

#33 1 year ago

I jumpered all of the suggested switches closed... no change of status.

#34 1 year ago

It might be that the ball return relay isn’t getting any hold circuit voltage. Using a DMM set for AC voltage connect the black lead to the orange coil common wire and connect the red lead to the white-Brown wire on the ball return relay switch. A constant voltage should show until 8D is opened.

#35 1 year ago

A friend who is a pinball tech of far greater EM skill than my own came by today, and pretty quickly resolved the ball kickout issue. The switch at the top is what was in the game (rides the cam on the score motor). Switch on the bottom is what it's supposed to look like.

BUT... when we fixed that, the player unit stopped going from ball to ball, and was infinitely stuck on ball 1. We fooled with it some more, then decided that the best course of action was for him to take it back to his shop to tinker with some more.

More updates as they become available.

motor switches (resized).jpgmotor switches (resized).jpg
#36 1 year ago

So aside from the new ball count issue, fixing that score motor switch fixed the kick out issue completely?

#37 1 year ago
Quoted from BeachPickle:

So aside from the new ball count issue, fixing that score motor switch fixed the kick out issue completely?

It took care of 90% of it. He messaged me a little while ago and has the rest of the issues sorted out (mystery EM tech, feel free to jump in if you want).

#38 1 year ago

Initially right off the bat I found yesterday on the score motor switch stack 1, a cam follower was added to the bottom of the switch stack and installed inverted so that stack couldn't drop down properly into the cam notch. Removed that and adjusted stack 1 switches. Then found on cam 3, the cam follower was bent down in such a way that the end of it was also riding on the cam. This was causing the switch stack to keep the switches in a different state longer than they should have been because the end of the cam follower was also riding on the raised notches of the cam, drsfmd posted a picture of that in post 35. This was actually an issue on several other switch stacks. I found a few switches also not fully making on the score motor. After correcting those issues, along with cleaning the closed switches on the 500, 5000, and 3000, and match relays the ball return solenoid was working.
Drsfmd was able to play one game without incident. Go to play a second game and now it was stuck in reset, the reset relays were staying locked on and the replay unit would decrement all the replays on it over and over again. Eventually something would catch and it would finish reset, but then the player advance relay wasn't activating to advance ball to ball (This ended up being I overlooked the hiding trough switch that I wasn't manually activating while testing to try and get the player advance relay to pull, ding bat me). However it was consistently not finishing reset now.
So I took the game home and last night got it resolved. I went over the score motor again, found a few additional switches that were not making well/almost not at all. Also discovered that cam 2 was missing its cam follower, likely was the one found on stack 1. That was causing stack 2 to change the switch states later than intended. Replaced cam follower on cam 2. After I was done revisiting the score motor, cleaning and adjusting the switches, I put the game all back together and have no longer had the reset issue. Played dozens of games last night without any issues. This morning after several games it stopped scoring and was locking on the score relays. This one was easy and was just a dirty poorly adjusted switch on the 2nd player up relay. I will be playing more to see if any more gremlins arise but as of right now everything is working properly whether its a 1 or 2 player game.

#39 1 year ago

I'm going to go ahead and call this one resolved. cjs001 did a fantastic job with getting the game running right and tuned. I played about 20 trouble free games... so now it's time for the full stripdown of the top side of the playfield, cleaning, waxing, bulbs, and new rubber.

If anyone happens to have a good backglass for this game, please reach out. Mine is pretty bad. If I can't find one, I'll order one from BGResto... but I'd rather have an original.

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