(Topic ID: 233859)

i messed up ( a little) need help!!


By jgadzia

6 months ago



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  • 30 posts
  • 12 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 months ago by Marvin
  • Topic is favorited by 4 Pinsiders

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#1 6 months ago

removed the mylar from my data east star wars with no problems, went to remove the adhesive with a plastic razor blade and pushed down too hard over 2 of the letters of star wars. when i was scraping the scrapings looked white like the adhesive (there was no visible red paint) but as you can see from the pictures it is like i scraped the finish off. When i wet the letters with the goo gone you cant tell it is scraped but when it dries it becomes visible. I had planned on applying clear coat, will that make it look normal again, or is my only option to paint it?

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#2 6 months ago

Just venturing a reasonable guess here but when I have been in similar situations, after the new coating is applied I don’t think you will see it. That has been my ezperience

#3 6 months ago
Quoted from GPS:

Just venturing a reasonable guess here but when I have been in similar situations, after the new coating is applied I don’t think you will see it. That has been my ezperience

i pray that you are right!

#4 6 months ago
Quoted from GPS:

Just venturing a reasonable guess here but when I have been in similar situations, after the new coating is applied I don’t think you will see it. That has been my ezperience

I guessing the same. I had some similar concerns when I CCd my BOP and that same out perfect. The clear "became" the new visible finish. Best of luck on the restore!

#5 6 months ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

removed the mylar from my data east star wars with no problems, went to remove the adhesive with a plastic razor blade and pushed down too hard over 2 of the letters of star wars. when i was scraping the scrapings looked white like the adhesive (there was no visible red paint) but as you can see from the pictures it is like i scraped the finish off. When i wet the letters with the goo gone you cant tell it is scraped but when it dries it becomes visible. I had planned on applying clear coat, will that make it look normal again, or is my only option to paint it?
[quoted image]

Your game looks great, do you have pictures of what it looked like before you took the Mylar off? How bad was it, the playfield underneath looks perfect.

#6 6 months ago

you sure that just ain't glue?

#7 6 months ago

It looks like you scraped the clear from those letters and the lighter red you see is the red ink with a dulled finish. When you wet the letters with Goo Gone is looks good again because you are reflecting light evenly instead of scattering it. No doubt once cleared you'll never be able to tell.

#8 6 months ago

what jibmums said. dont try to mess with it too much or you'll be doing a color touch up

#9 6 months ago

Clear it, it will look great

#10 6 months ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

Clear it, it will look great

i was going to clear it with this rustoleum clear coat based on a video i saw here

what are your thoughts?

#11 6 months ago

no use 2k clear not a "2x". they sell 2k clear in a spray can.

#12 6 months ago

Take it apart and send it to me for auto clear. I charge $250. Here is a Star Wars I did.

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#13 6 months ago
Quoted from phillipmasur:

no use 2k clear not a "2x". they sell 2k clear in a spray can.

Thanks that was Awesome!

#14 6 months ago
Quoted from tatman9999:

Take it apart and send it to me for auto clear. I charge $250. Here is a Star Wars I did.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Do you offer any touch up service as well, or just clear?

#15 6 months ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

Do you offer any touch up service as well, or just clear?

Miner touch ups. Nothing crazy.

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#16 6 months ago

Here is a six million dollar man with a lot of touch ups

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#17 6 months ago

Another after clear

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#18 6 months ago

i have a question about the metal ball guides that are hammered into the board. Can i clear around them or am i going to have to pop those out. And if i pop them out from the underside, will they just hammer back in when i am done with the clear coating. I am worried if one gets bent will i have problems replacing it?

#19 6 months ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

i have a question about the metal ball guides that are hammered into the board. Can i clear around them or am i going to have to pop those out. And if i pop them out from the underside, will they just hammer back in when i am done with the clear coating. I am worried if one gets bent will i have problems replacing it?

take them out, gently pry out from above the topside. Clear, then carefully redrill the holes with a sharp bit to remove any clear that got in the holes. replace the guides on the field.

#20 6 months ago

take them out, gently pry out from above the topside. Clear, then carefully redrill the holes with a sharp bit to remove any clear that got in the holes. replace the guides on the field.</blockquote

what would you use to pry them out? I thought you would tap them out from the bottom?

#21 6 months ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

i have a question about the metal ball guides that are hammered into the board. Can i clear around them or am i going to have to pop those out. And if i pop them out from the underside, will they just hammer back in when i am done with the clear coating. I am worried if one gets bent will i have problems replacing it?

Get a flat piece of wood 1/4" to 3/8" thick. Use this as a prying platform. Place it under you ball guide and start prying up slowly with a flat blade screwdriver. If you are lucky there will be no pinched, or flat areas on the ball guide that could damage your play field as you are prying.

don't force anything. Be gentle. If you run into resistance, stop, have a closer look before you proceed.

Now, for my insulting observation: you don't sound like you know what you are doing when it comes to clear coating a play field. This is no time to play hero or try to save a few bucks.

What is your experience with painting? From a pressure spray gun? From a foo foo can? Have you shot 2-part paints before? Do you know what I am talking about when I ask you about 2-part paints? Do you know what a catalyst is? How about catalytic conversion process?

Do you know how to correct orange peel? Now about fish eyes? How about dry paint?

Do you have a setup for fine sanding, buffing and polishing a clear surface to make it really shine?

If you don't know what you are doing you can really screw the pooch.

I'm sorry, but that idiot who is going to shoot some foo foo can clear needs to be taken off the air. Of all the vids on how to prepare for clear coating you had to pick the absolute worst one.

DE Star Wars is a desirable pin. Study hard and learn what you need to do to do it right.

I apologize. I hope I do not offend you. I just want to get your attention.

I live in Wichita. I do not know the person who offered you a CC job for $250.00 but $250.00 for a clear coat is a nice price. Polyurethane clear costs around $100.00 a quart. You can use $30.00 to $50.00 worth of clear for a nice job. Sandpaper costs and arm and a leg. Sanding and blocking out clear takes some time. $250.00 is a good price and it looks like he does some nice work.

Peace. Good Luck whichever way you decide.

#22 6 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Get a flat piece of wood 1/4" to 3/8" thick. Use this as a prying platform. Place it under you ball guide and start prying up slowly with a flat blade screwdriver. If you are lucky there will be no pinched, or flat areas on the ball guide that could damage your play field as you are prying.
don't force anything. Be gentle. If you run into resistance, stop, have a closer look before you proceed.
Now, for my insulting observation: you don't sound like you know what you are doing when it comes to clear coating a play field. This is no time to play hero or try to save a few bucks.
What is your experience with painting? From a pressure spray gun? From a foo foo can? Have you shot 2-part paints before? Do you know what I am talking about when I ask you about 2-part paints? Do you know what a catalyst is? How about catalytic conversion process?
Do you know how to correct orange peel? Now about fish eyes? How about dry paint?
Do you have a setup for fine sanding, buffing and polishing a clear surface to make it really shine?
If you don't know what you are doing you can really screw the pooch.
I'm sorry, but that idiot who is going to shoot some foo foo can clear needs to be taken off the air. Of all the vids on how to prepare for clear coating you had to pick the absolute worst one.
DE Star Wars is a desirable pin. Study hard and learn what you need to do to do it right.
I apologize. I hope I do not offend you. I just want to get your attention.
I live in Wichita. I do not know the person who offered you a CC job for $250.00 but $250.00 for a clear coat is a nice price. Polyurethane clear costs around $100.00 a quart. You can use $30.00 to $50.00 worth of clear for a nice job. Sandpaper costs and arm and a leg. Sanding and blocking out clear takes some time. $250.00 is a good price and it looks like he does some nice work.
Peace. Good Luck whichever way you decide.

Definitely not offended. you are correct, I dont know what i am doing. Which is why I am here. I also had no idea how to repair circuit boards, fix pinball machines or remove mylar before i did it. Which is why I am on the forum here to learn as much as i can from knowledgeable people such as yourself, as there is no one locally to teach me how to do this stuff. I am not cheap, i just want to learn to do this stuff myself (its a hobby for me). I specifically picked this machine because cpr is making new playfields for this machine this year anyway. So worse case scenario, I totally screw the pooch. I will buy a new one. I just found that video i posted because his results seemed to be pretty good and his process seemed pretty easy. If you have some better videos that can teach me how to do this, I will be eternally grateful. I had planned on practicing on some plywood first before i attempted it on the playfield as well.

#23 6 months ago

the holes generally do not go all the way through for wireforms. plus if they do putting a punch up through the hole will likely make the hole bigger, which would be a major problem. Like mentioned above a small piece of wood, even cardboard on top of the PF, screwdriver goes under the wireform and on top of the wood (so you don't dig into the PF). Do this near each end, not in the middle. safest to lift one side a bit then the other and go back and forth walking it up and out. Rather than pulling one side all the way out and risking bending the wire.

#25 6 months ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

Definitely not offended. you are correct, I dont know what i am doing. Which is why I am here. I also had no idea how to repair circuit boards, fix pinball machines or remove mylar before i did it. Which is why I am on the forum here to learn as much as i can from knowledgeable people such as yourself, as there is no one locally to teach me how to do this stuff. I am not cheap, i just want to learn to do this stuff myself (its a hobby for me). I specifically picked this machine because cpr is making new playfields for this machine this year anyway. So worse case scenario, I totally screw the pooch. I will buy a new one. I just found that video i posted because his results seemed to be pretty good and his process seemed pretty easy. If you have some better videos that can teach me how to do this, I will be eternally grateful. I had planned on practicing on some plywood first before i attempted it on the playfield as well.

OK. This changes things. Go to Walmart and buy some cheap paint. In my town, Walmart has a lot of cheap spray paint on the bottom row for 97 cents a can. Get yourself some cheap gray primer and buy the darker colors like black and dark blue. Dark colors make it harder to hide your mistakes. Plywood is probably not the best to practice on as it might soak up the paint. Better bet would be to get some hardboard (what used to be called Masonite). Get some of the blue masking tape. Get some sandpaper. Get a quart can of naphtha. While your are at Walmart, get a package, or 2, of cotton dish rags to use for wiping rags. Avoid the bad habit of just using any rag or cloth you find lying around because you don't know how it was used and have no idea of what it is still there to contaminate the surface you are trying to paint.

You might want to get a paint mask. Harbor Freight sells some for around $16.00 that are pretty good.

Go for the gusto. Prop up that hardboard and learn to paint on a vertical surface. You need to understand how to lay down a nice wet coat of paint with out getting runs in your work. Cheap paint. Cheap hardboard. This is where you push the limits. And then when you go for real you can always dial it back.

Once you have some color on your hardboard, then hit it with some of that Rustoleum clear. You won't find clear in 97 cent cans. And if you managed to paint some dark colors, nice and wet, with no runs, spray can clear will teach you some new lessons Play around with your masking tape. Paint some designs and feel the different surfaces where your tape was at. Shoot some clear and smooth them out.

I'll look for some videos.

Spraying is the easy part. Preparation is what makes for a great paint job. Do all of this and then when you go to clear your play field on a horizontal instead of vertical surface, you will be golden.

Advisory: You always want to keep your spray head parallel to the surface you are painting. This means you need to learn to use your wrist as you move your spray head across the surface you are painting. You don't want heavy spots of paint in front of you and dry areas out on to your side.

Painting is a rhythm thing. You get loose. You flex your wrist. You rock your body. You dance from side to side. All the time keeping the spray head parallel to your work. In time, it all becomes unconscious movement.

Practice. Ask questions.

#26 6 months ago
Quoted from Marvin:

the holes generally do not go all the way through for wireforms. plus if they do putting a punch up through the hole will likely make the hole bigger, which would be a major problem. Like mentioned above a small piece of wood, even cardboard on top of the PF, screwdriver goes under the wireform and on top of the wood (so you don't dig into the PF). Do this near each end, not in the middle. safest to lift one side a bit then the other and go back and forth walking it up and out. Rather than pulling one side all the way out and risking bending the wire.

so when i go to put them back in, do you just lightly hammer them back in or do i need to put some type of adhesive in the holes?

#27 6 months ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

so when i go to put them back in, do you just lightly hammer them back in or do i need to put some type of adhesive in the holes?

no adhesive, press in by hand to start. if you cant go all the way by hand (likely) use a block and a hammer, lightly, to tap them down

#28 6 months ago

Here is an excellent video of painting a car door. You don't need to use Eastwood products. On your play field, when you go for real, you won't be painting with primer. You won't be painting a guide coat. You won't be using bondo. You won't be using 80 grit sandpaper. You will be using 1000 grit, 1500 grit, 2000 grit, 2500 grit, and maybe 3000 grit sandpaper. And yeah, you will be wet sanding your baby and you have to be very careful when wetting up a piece of wood.

Pay attention to:

1) the long block being used.
2) painting edge first.
3) tiger stripes
4) watch how the gun is always parallel to the work
5) use of tack cloths, etc.
6) applying cross coats for leveling

If you can paint this car door, you could lay down clear on any play field that comes your way.

#29 6 months ago

Ok thanks for everones help. I got all the metal rails off except the two by the drain. These are tight against the playfield. How do you suggest i get the off? Also i noticed before removing these rails toward the top of the playfield the holes are very close to the edge ans there is some splintering. I am worried that when i put these back in the wood could split. I was thinking of putting a thin layer of epoxy on the wood edge to prevent it from breaking out when i tap them back in?

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#30 6 months ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

Ok thanks for everones help. I got all the metal rails off except the two by the drain. These are tight against the playfield. How do you suggest i get the off? Also i noticed before removing these rails toward the top of the playfield the holes are very close to the edge ans there is some splintering. I am worried that when i put these back in the wood could split. I was thinking of putting a thin layer of epoxy on the wood edge to prevent it from breaking out when i tap them back in?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

you take off the biff bars the same way, just use a really thin block to get them started and use a very small screwdriver to get started. The wood wont split putting the wires back in, the holes are already there. just drill them to remove any clear that gets in them, do not make the holes bigger.

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