(Topic ID: 144806)

I made some replacement plastics.

By tamoore

8 years ago


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#1 8 years ago

I bought a project Gay 90's machine that was missing 3 plastics, and were replaced with pieces of red acetate which were cracked and ugly.

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I decided to make some new ones yesterday. Here is how I did it. Total project time, about 2 hours.

First, I located images on the plastics I needed. Luckily, someone had taken pics of the plastic set and put them on IPDB;

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I cropped out the plastics I needed, and scaled them using the distance between the holes as the reference points. I did a bit of touch up in a photo editing program, and then had an image that was scaled and ready to print.

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I printed the image on a mylar backlight film.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006Z1HE0W/ref=cm_sw_su_dp
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Using this opaque white mylar will give you the white layer than you can't print on consumer inkjet printers.

Using scissors, I trimmed each plastic image out of the mylar to the outermost edge. These will be used as templates to cut the plastics.

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I went to the hardware store and asked for a scrap piece of plexiglass. You can make a lot of plastics from what they consider a throw-away piece. I paid a couple of dollars for a 2 foot square piece of plexi. The piece I got was a little thicker than 1/16"

Using the cut outs and a black sharpie, trace the outline of each plastic onto the plexiglass.

I rough cut each shape from the plexiglass with a scroll saw, and then finished the plastics to the correct shape on a belt and drum sander.

Next, I cut the mylar image again, this time, cut the image back to the outside black line of the art.

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To fasten the image on to the back of the plexiglass, I used clear packing tape.

Pull a piece of tape long enough to cover the mylar cutout of the plastic, and apply the mylar to the tape art side up... Use two or more pieces if required to cover the entire mylar. You will want a lot of extra tape around the edges, because the difference in size between the mylar and the plexiglass is where the tape will adhere to the plexi, holding the art on.

It's hard to see in this picture, but this is the idea.

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I taped the artwork on the back of the plexiglass, centered best as I could so there equal equal "clear" plastic around the art.

With a new razor blade, the excess tape was trimmed from around the edge of the plastic. (I don't have pictures of this step).

#2 8 years ago

I placed the plastic on the machine in location over the mounting posts with the machine lights on, and marked a spot on the top of the plastic on the center of each mounting post.

With a pointy wood drill backed by a piece of wood, I Drilled a hole of the correct size through the plastic over the spot marked.

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After the holes were made, I put the completed plastics in the machine. Here are the results.

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#3 8 years ago

I probably could have (should have) spent some more time getting the color correct, but I really didn't want to spend a bunch of time on this.. I just wanted to make the machine look a lot better, and closer to original. Success!

There are probably more advanced techniques that could have been used to get a better result, but this is something easy that nearly anyone can do.

#4 8 years ago

Very nice, Thanks for sharing

#5 8 years ago

Great Job! I had a Gay 90's, its actually a fun machine...

#6 8 years ago

How is the opacity on that mylar? I did the same as you but used lightweight inkjet photo paper and PETG.

I have a Gay 90s too, planning on a full repaint of the playfield. I think my plastics are all good, one minor break.

#7 8 years ago
Quoted from dr_nybble:

How is the opacity on that mylar?.

It's made to be back lit, so it's pretty good. Light comes through real nice.

#8 8 years ago

Looks real good! Let me know when your ready to take orders!

#9 8 years ago

I am very jealous. I love that game!

#10 8 years ago

Sounds easy enough. And looks good. Nicely done

#11 8 years ago

Nice job!! Good thinking!

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