(Topic ID: 226769)

I made a playfield protector… self-evaulation

By rkahr

5 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 60 posts
  • 16 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by Skidave
  • Topic is favorited by 25 Pinsiders

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There are 60 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 5 years ago

This is the perfect thread for me as I need to make one myself for Quicksilver.

I hope cutting around the star rollover as a complete circle doesnt cause issues with balls getting stuck etc
Thank you

#52 5 years ago
Quoted from FalconPunch:

This is the perfect thread for me as I need to make one myself for Quicksilver.
I hope cutting around the star rollover as a complete circle doesnt cause issues with balls getting stuck etc
Thank you

I can't imagine a .020" lip around a star rollover being a big risk for hangups. I have a Whirlwind with the protector that you can buy and on a very rare occasion it will stop on the lip in front of the left scoop. A slight upward nudge and it will fall in the scoop, but I've only seen that happen twice on hundreds of games and I think that's a .030" thick piece.

#53 5 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

I can't imagine a .020" lip around a star rollover being a big risk for hangups.

When they first came out, balls were hanging all over the place.

They tried American Football shaped holes, they tried a fork shaped piece of plastic, they even tried supplying a separate rollover piece that you aligned with the installed one.

The solution that always works, even on older, less steep inclines, is the flush insert.

#54 5 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

When they first came out, balls were hanging all over the place.
They tried American Football shaped holes, they tried a fork shaped piece of plastic, they even tried supplying a separate rollover piece that you aligned with the installed one.
The solution that always works, even on older, less steep inclines, is the flush insert.

The originals from Germany and Hardtops are .030" though, right? The .020" that people seem to be enjoying on the DIY side of thingswould be less inclined to snags. Not free from them, but the actual reduction should exist. In my experience, even a small snag hasn't been the end of the world. my WW on route doesn't have a super tight tilt, so players never have issues getting that sort of stuck ball free. I only have to take off the glass when an airball lands in a certain spot on a plastic. If I ever decide to resolve that I bet I'd reduce snags to almost 0% on that game.

I should also point out that it's my best earning System 11, which I'm perfectly fine with.

#55 5 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

The originals from Germany and Hardtops are .030" though, right?

They send a few thicknesses, but slow games like Fathom were simply a nightmare of hangups

#56 5 years ago
Quoted from FalconPunch:

This is the perfect thread for me as I need to make one myself for Quicksilver.
I hope cutting around the star rollover as a complete circle doesnt cause issues with balls getting stuck etc
Thank you

You have two star rollovers on your Quicksilver. If you use .020 thickness and if you bevel the edges of the holes you will probably get by OK. But it is not that hard to knock the rollovers out and raise them up. Get rid of those 40 year old discolored rollovers and put in some nice new red ones. Your game will be prettier and it will play better.

I almost forgot, I raised 5 rollovers on my first pin and two on the second. I never bothered to glue the new replacements down. I just put the protector on, set the rollover insert in its hole and tapped it in with a hammer and a piece of wood. They are tight enough going in that you will do OK with no glue.

THen, if you ever change your mind and want to remove the protector, you can then glue them and knock them all the way in

#57 5 years ago

I've got a production protector from Germany in my Flash. Here's a pic of the star rollover solution in that game.

Flash playfield protector at the rolloverFlash playfield protector at the rollover

I did a group buy with a couple other guys from league so shipping was free. Still, I think the protector cost me more than the game.

-Rob
-visit http://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard that helps fix WPC pinball resets or my Pinball 2000 H+V video sync combiner kit

1 week later
#58 5 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

I used acrylic last time and petg this time, ordered online. I'd love to know how much the material effects the expansion, but hard to know without making two...

An update on this, I finally finished my PET-G protector. As far as I know I used the same material and thickness as the commercial protectors, but in my case I anchored it down under all the posts as my playfield was flaking badly and I didn't want any movement.

However, as feared, it still expanded from the heat to the point where the center was at least 4mm above the playfield. This was after a few hours of being on, and with all incandescents. Still have to look into converting everything to LEDs and see if that fixes it

#59 5 years ago

Figures - my home-made protector has been completed for less than a month and the announcement about Alien Poker playfield reproductions hits the streets. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/alien-poker-repro-playfields-list-oppening#post-4649252 . I like how the protector works so far, but I really like my Mata Hair with the CPR playfield in it.

-Rob
-visit http://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard that helps fix WPC pinball resets or my replacement LED display boards for model H and model S Skee Ball

5 months later
#60 4 years ago

I'm looking to buy a protector for a game with a lousy playfield. The playfield is currently waxed. When using the protector or using a diy version, do you leave the playfield waxed before installing the protector? I thought I read somewhere people were wiping the playfield with Naphtha before install. I could be wrong. Any experienced member have details they can share? I'm trying to figure it out before the Allentown show to order now and pickup there.

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