And it is a "Williams Jubilee" from 1972, bought it for 120 USD from a young man that had started to clean it but given up, it is working condition and needs a clean-up but the bad news is the backglass, its got a big chunk of it missing since probably the last 15 years or so.

Does anyone have a backglass pic in Translite quality to share?

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Yeah, first thing i did was to clean off this ancient, dried-out, thick brown tape from the upper part of the backglass somebody had wrapped around it to protect from getting their hands cut, luckily no paint fell off during the process.

The rest of it is just cabinet paint job, the playfield looks A-OK, just some minor, barely noticable touch-ups.

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The young man i got it from bought it from a older guy that had gotten the game from his pals for his 40th birthday as a prank

Yep, dunno if original but those are Williams metal flippers.

Anyway, me and my friend looked into the machine today, and found the original manual folder with lots of stuff (i also found 2 of those banana flippers from Time Warp and/or Disco Fever which i gave to him since he owns a Time Warp, no clue why those where even in this machine..) and extra fuses.

The chime mechanism is all gone though, and seems to have been for a long time since the cables that hooked it up have rusted (?) on the ends, dunno if im gonna fix that somehow or let it be, the game works fine anyway.

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Hehe, well i doubt i will be building a whole pinball lounge with them, but for 120 USD for a working pinball and just a few mile from me it was a pure steal, simply couldnt be passed up.

Anyway, i think i have encountered a first problem, the Player 1 counter doesnt seem to count up to more then 9999, the fifth wheel doesnt seem to click over to 10000.

also, ive checked out the flippers too, seems to be original Williams flippers, but made out of metal and with a brass rod, dunno how i would see if its "home-made" or not, it looks pretty much like the plastic Williams flippers to me, even the rubbers fit perfectly fine.

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LOL, i just too one apart for you guys, its metal all the way through.

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It doesnt look home-made either, but factory made.

Well, i had to change those for 2 ordinary white flippers, these where so badly worn on the rod that they couldnt be set properly, but i'll keep them and change the rod.

Anyway, does anyone have a good pic of the missing part for my backglass or the whole thing so i can print a translite piece? I know a guy that can fix the glass but i need the printed part too...

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Well, just now when i started it the 15A fuse popped and every lamp in the backbox also popped (except those in the score sections, only the GI and those above the score wheels popped, funny enough), is this a serious problem somewhere or just "something that happens-switch everything out to new lamps and it is fine" deal?

Also, can i switch to LED's in the backbox on these to reduce the toll on the GI?

I have no clues about EM games.

Yeah but i only had those 2 flippers in stock so they will have to do

And no, they didnt explode, every GI lamp in the back box popped/died/burned off (im a swede, gimme a break on all the hip pinball slang you guys use int he States LOL) along with the upper fuse in the cab (15A).

Well i switched every broken lamp and put in my last 15 A fuse and now they all shined up brightly then the fuse popped again when i pressed the left flipperbutton to initiate the lights.

Must be a lampscoket somewhere in the backbox thats gone bad or soemthing, since all the cables are chekced so they dont touch anything.

Thing is, it seems to be somewhere on the GI line, the score lights doesnt seem to be affected at all, its just the ones in the middle of the backbox + the ones above the wheels.

But i'll have to buy more 15A fuses before i try EMsInkC's test tip, im out and got only 10A or 16ASB's

Added a pic of the backbox, the red circle is the lamps that "pop" with the fuse, the greens dont.

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Well, the game have worked just fine since i got it home 2 weeks ago, this just started today in the middle of the first game, i suspect i would have had this problem right from the start if it was something that the backglas did.

Besides the crashed backglass happened probably some 15-20 years ago, considering the brown tape i removed from the backglas was in severe decaying condition.

Well, the first time it was all those bulbs in the red AND the fuse, now the fuse pops as soon as i hit the left flipper button (i event ried with a 16 A fuse, sicne i dont have any 15A, still popped) , dont even have time to put in bulbs

Thing is, its only the GI in the backbox that does this, not the playfield.

So i got to follow the GI cable all the way then? Well i figured the upper fuse deals with the GI, since that is the one that pops.

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Whole thing is so weird since it worked perfectly for days, even when dragged around, lifted etc, then when its put it a good corner and left alone and started up on the 3rd day it just breaks like this LOL

Been trudging around inside the cabinet abit, and found 2 weird...stuffs.

1. two switches dont have anything connected to them anymore, but i cant find any loose cables either around them, what gives?

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2. This coil seems.... crispy compared to the others. Dunno if it works or not, havent checked it, but could it be dead?

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Well, been searching around for a couple of hours now (sodlering some cracked points, 2 loose cables ont he 100 points relays and minor stuff) and maybe found a culprit to the short, i found a spacer that laid across two contacts on the second main plug in the backbox (where the cable from the cab plugs into) and well.... now the 15A 24Volt fuse blows right when i hit the ON/OFF switch instead of the 15A 6Volt when i hit the left flipper button, which is...progress, i guess.

According to the manual that one is for the "Bridge Rectifier":

"IF, HOWEVER, THE 15AMP 24 VOLT FUSE ON THE MECHANISM PANEL OPENS, IT COULD BE DUE TO A FAULTY RECTIFIER."

Have the Rectifier been fried now or do i have some more serious short somewhere? Seriously i have no goddamn clue anymore what is going on, ive checked every damn connection, cable, contact and metal part in the backbox + those "open air" GI metal wire the lamps are soldered on, and nowhere is anything contacting now AFAIK.

Geez naturally it had get a electrical problem of all problems to get, my biggest weakness, right after i get it cheap. *throws hands up in the air*

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Now, do i dare put a 16A SB fuse in that place (only ones i got home atm) or should i wait on further experiments until i get 15A fuses?

Well, it goes..somewhere, dunno where though, there are some cables thats been done in plastic rather then "cloth" like the other ones.

Also, had to redo the "info part" on the fuse box, it smudged when i was there changing fuses.

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I havent touched anything there except the fuses + made a new Fuse info piece.

So, it can be that that is causing it aswell? I have a Caltek Instrument CM1100 multimeter, with diod function so no worries there, but i kinda need to know where and what to measure.

And i believe its this one i found on the underside of the gamefield, though i might be wrong:

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This one is named "Bridge Rectifier 26MB20-4C International Rectifier", hopefully its a common one.

Well, did the rectifier test now:

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Although as said this isnt "under stress" so i dunno if these readings have any real answer here.

Well it could still be bad under stress though, where can i find a replacement (ive googled the IR number but to no avail) just in case i need to switch it out.

Well i looked abit closer at that crispy loking solenoid (Lock Relay Z-29-1250), and it pretty much came apart when i touched it.

So i desoldered it and found crispy chunks of plastics and wrapping under it. I dunno but i guess this could be the buzzing sound i heard during the same game the GI lights died in...

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Also, this solenoid looks kinda crispy too, dunno what it named or really what it does except moving the wheels that flips those huge switch collections.

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Ah, i see, well im buying a new one anyway, and im heading into town tomorrow to get more 15A fuses, so i can test out that "1 bulb at a time" test you guys hinted me of.

I am kinda hunting blind here so i have to check every way, too bad the nearest (and only i think) pinball store in Sweden was totally out of the lampsocket version i needed, typical, have to order from Germany.

This do remind me, the previous owner mentioned that there have been a "free play" mod done to it, somewhere in the back box, but im not sure where, although ive noticed this blue cable sodlered on by the credit wheel, can that be it?

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Yes it does, a blue cable soldered between 2 switches in the back box.

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You mean these? I have no clue where the "Replay Connector" is, barely no labels left on anything in the backbox.

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Ok, i resetted the wheel, so it stands on "blank" now (there is no 0 on it, it ends on 1) and i took a couple of pic of how it looks now.

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Should i desolder the credit mod if that is making the short?

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Progress report:

The new solenoid got home today so i replaced the old broken one and soldered it, i also removed that "free play mod" and bent the switches right, and now the game atleast starts again without taking the fuse or the lamps in the backbox, but the thing is now it start directly into the "ready" mode, skipping the "Press left flipper to start the lights up" part, and if i manually add coins, it starts to buzz REAL loud when i click the switch the second time (i shut the game off immediatly both times).

Now, why does the game sjip the "press left flipper to start" part suddenly, and why doesnt it want to start a new game? is there some other solenoid/switch thats shorted?

Uhm, i hope that is easy fixable?

Well i just looked in the cab with the game on and the LOCK Relay instantly goes right when ON/OFF is switched ON, so you are right, but what cause this?

According to my Manual it says:

"Lock Relay
is energized by 5c relay, left flipper switch or score motor cam switch 5 A"

is Score motor switch 5A the culprit for this new error? Where do i find Score Motor Switch 5A then? also, cant i just remove the Lock relay altogether and fix the switches together, since from what i understand the Lock Relay just makes the machine into Game Over mod if you shut it off during a game so the next guy wont get a free game?

Also would need a new free play mod of somesort sicne i removed the old one.

Well, ive messed around in the backbox at the credit wheel, and it seems one of the switches never touched eachother, so i fixed that and now the "press left flipper to get to attract mode " works again, but i cant start a game or add in coins to get credits, the coins just flops down into the mechanism and stays there not doing anything until i press the Coin return pin, and if i manually flip the coin switch 2 times something starts fiercely buzz in the cab somewhere, but i still cant start a game.

And i checked the flipper switch, its not closed together.

EDIT: i found some pics from a Williams Skylab credit wheel setup, and noticed that the poles on the wheel on my Jubilee was way too close to let the credit wheel spin correctly to 0, so i changed that, but it didnt matter since the game wont do anything when the start button is pressed, i even tried putting the credit to 0 and resoldering the credit mod cable back, still nothing, its like the game refuse to go into start/reset mode when the start button is pressed. I have to..i dunno manually press the reset switch inside the cab or something tomorrow.

Been pressing switches now around in the game, and the most progress i get is that some of them will lock on and then start to seriously buzz.

The score reel works though, if i press the point switches in the back box, also the knocker fires if it push on the solenoid on the credit wheel, and the game do start up with all the lights and also the "press the left flipper button to get to attract mode" works now and the Lock Realy jumps into life when its pressed, but nothing much else happens with anything else. I am at a total loss here what is causing it to not do atleast something when credited up or coined up.

*sigh* i could probably use it as a lighted up worktable or something, or sell it as is.

I have a big original 3 meters long schematics but i cant make heads or tails of it.

Now, i just noticed and remebered something, earlier i found this switch way back inside the cab that was missing cables, and when i push the coin up switch on the coin door the solenoid underneath it activates, maybe the game cant see im coining it up since there are like 2 conenctions without anything on it?

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Also, how are these switches on the credit reel supposed to be, closed or open?

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Well, i started to reconnect the cables on the switch in the back of the cab, and discovered a very odd rewire job that leads all the way up to the coindoor.

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Had to make a little map over it all, too complicated to describe accurately, now, what is this?

also there is abunch of cut cables that where taped together on the coindoor with electrical tape:

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Now, all of them leads to the 2 contacts on the right of the picture, but since they arent conencted to anything they dont do anything AFAIK.

heh, i used it to hold up the switch section on the score motor.

Well bros Jubilee is fixed! a cable on the Advance unit and a leaf switch on the bonus switch setup was broken off on the underside of the playfield, i soldered them on and now everything works!

Thank you all guys! You all deserve a big broslap on the ass for your help!