(Topic ID: 59949)

I just added a drop target to our Dirty Harry Pin


By EEE

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 19 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by EEE
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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#1 6 years ago

I am pleased with my effort and the result is good in my humble opinion. The Warehouse drop target is one of the better examples of things lost in the transition from sample machine to production run machine. Game play is faster and improved with the drop target installed.

For those of you that have the production machine, you may know that the current software supports the drop target. You can "mod" your machine with a few hours of effort and a few parts that are readily available.

Instructions below are for reference only, and I will not be liable for any damage or harm to your machine or yourself.

I suggest patience and going slow, so as to avoid any irreversible damages.

You should see 4 factory dimples underneath the playfield around the Inspector badge for the Warehouse. You should also notice a 3-pin molex connector built into the wiring harness that has no match in that immediate area. The dimples are for the drop target assembly itself and the 3-pinner is for the drop target switch. You will need to build up the wiring for the two coils and create a connection from the switch to that 3-pin connector.

The parts I used included a new single self-dropping target assembly (A-15211), the actual drop target itself (I used an AFM red #03-8750-2, but you could use black #03-8750), two pairs of 2-pin molex housings (male and female) that can accomodate 18 guage AWG wire along with two pairs of molex pins male & female (.093). These are for the 2 coils on the drop assembly to make removing the whole assembly easier, and any color of wires will do. I suggest 7' of each color, and you will have some waste at the end of the process. I used white with orange, white with black, blue and pink.

You will also need a 3-pin molex connector (better to get both a male & female), to use for the drop target switch, and the wiring for this short run (two different color strands of 6" or less) uses a 22 guage AWG wire, along with a pair of male/female .062 housings (you may not use both sides). You might also want to have a supply of small zip ties if you prefer to snip the ones on the wiring harness instead of pushing the wires through.

Tools that you will need include a drill and/or dremel, an IDC punch down tool and a molex crimper. I used a few different drill bits, a Dremel #453 sharpening stone (5/32"), a 2-pack of 3/8" x 1" Kobalt grinders (Lowes item #0236542). You will also need a soldering iron.

I had recently shopped the machine, so I started by pulling the parts on top of the playfield that get in the way. It would be better to do this while the playfield is stripped down.

I attached the drop target assembly using the 4 dimples and then held the loose drop target in the area of where it would pass through the playfield. I used a pencil to outline the area and then drilled my first hole from the top with a small drill bit to get a good bearing on where the center of the target, as well as the rest of it, would pass through the playfield when I was done. Basically, make the hole carefully, using the target and assembly frequently to check that you are lined up and sized up correctly. My finished opening is smaller than factory, but it is easier to enlarge it than to try and fill it back in.

For wiring, build up the drop target switch and test it. The green wires go to the middle and the white wire goes to the non-banded side of the diode.

I soldered the drop reset (green) coil to the right ball gate at the top of the playfield (see the white with orange band wire that I added to the same lug as the red with orange wires). For the small drop coil (yellow) I soldered it to the ball launcher coil (see the pink wire that I added to the same lug as the red with brown wire).

For the other sides of the drop assembly coils, I used a white with black wire and a bluish-green wire. I pulled the wires all the way up the wire harness (new zipties would have been preferable and faster). When I got them into the backbox, I used an IDC punchdown tool to punch the white with black wire into connector J122, pin 1 for the green reset coil. I then inserted the bluish green wire for the small yellow coil into connector J130, pin 7.

The process took me about 5 hours total, not including shopping for the parts needed. Shout outs to McCune and PinballHelp for their assistance in this project.

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#2 6 years ago

A few more pics of the process.

IMG_20130815_100530.jpg IMG_20130815_095747.jpg IMG_20130813_205448.jpg

#3 6 years ago
Quoted from EEE:

Instructions below are for reference only, and I will not be liable for any damage or harm to your machine or yourself.

Good thing you included this.

I didn't see anywhere in your instructions about turning the game off to do this.

LTG : )
Disclaimer : There was a person who actually tried installing pop bumper lights in CFTBL with the game turned on.

#4 6 years ago

Looks scary! How sqaured up did you get the hole looking by the end. Slap on some Cliffy drop target protectors could clean it up even better. You got me wondering aboot this one. Good job!

#5 6 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Looks scary! How sqaured up did you get the hole looking by the end. Slap on some Cliffy drop target protectors could clean it up even better. You got me wondering aboot this one. Good job!

The hole is really, really close to squared up and as a matter of fact I bought the Cliffy protectors with the intention of putting them on but the hole is too small. I also have a new drop decal that I am holding off on for the moment. With a little time playing and analyzing the result, I will probably increase the size of the hole closer to what the factory would have done and put the Cliffy and drop decal on. I dont plan on going to the length that Christopher Hutchins went with the wood and black border, though. IMG_20130815_121445.jpg

#6 6 years ago

With a little patience and some files, this could easily look factory. Maybe another 30 mins or so. Your best bet is to draw out your finished size using radius gages and a straight edge, once you have that it's super easy.

#7 6 years ago

Well a lot of respect to you for trying this in the first place, its looking good and thanks for posting the whole process on here.

#8 6 years ago

Really awesome dude. Nice job adding this and thanks for the tutorial.

#9 6 years ago

really nice that you put the drop target back in your game. It does really make a difference.

#10 6 years ago

I'd just use any single drop target hole to make a small template using a 1/4" Pattern Router Bit.

Then use the template to cut a perfect hole for the new drop target.

Just a small trim router is needed.

pattern_bit.jpg

#11 6 years ago

Whatever you use, make sure you brush some clear around the inner lip to keep it from lifting and chipping.

#12 6 years ago

Nice job E ! While not perfect on the PF the game plays so much better with the drop target installed .

Thanks for the write up.

#13 6 years ago

Now all you need is some decals for that thing

Dirty-Harry-sheet.jpg

#14 6 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Now all you need is some decals for that thing

Wonder where you could find those ?

#15 6 years ago

Now where does one get that drop target assembly?

#16 6 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Now where does one get that drop target assembly?

Find the parts or a whole assembly from a game, or search for new ones.

LTG : )

#18 6 years ago

Oh I just searched for the assembly he listed and they were out of stock.

#19 6 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Oh I just searched for the assembly he listed and they were out of stock.

Parted out Fish Tales should be the same. I think that I also saw a new one for sale by an Aussie vendor.

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