I found a Jones ... Connector/Junction


By KYBingo

2 months ago


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  • 7 posts
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  • Latest reply 2 months ago by bingopodcast
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#1 71 days ago

So I found this Jones connector/junction (at least that is what I call it) in some Tower Clock extra parts box. Surprised that it said Jones on the bottom I tried to think where I might use it in my bingo project.

A jeweler's saw cut it short and suddenly I had a junction to connect power cord to transformer. And also disconnect....easily.

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#2 70 days ago

I wired up thousands of these connector blocks in the 70s in large industrial cabinets. Still have a few laying around in my parts. Great idea. I'm going to replace the power cord in my project Dixieland this morning and am going to use one.

#3 70 days ago

I don't know how many times I will be removing/replacing the head on the cabinet. I am learning. I just thought this would be an easy disconnect for the power cord.

#4 70 days ago

That style terminal block is not intended for regular removal. Will be very easy to land a wire on the wrong terminal unless you mark each wire and are fastidious about double checking where each wire is landed.

#5 70 days ago

if you had to take the game apart a lot and move it, this isn't a bad solution for the power cord. The only problem is the power cords usually had a hitch/knot in them to act as a strain relief, so even if you disconnected the end, you'd need to untie the hitch to pull out the cord.

Most of the games routed the cord out of the machine a couple different ways, and I don't remember either of them being convenient:

1] the slot in the head method left part of the cord under the head getting squashed between the head and floor - or if you remove a nailed-on strap so the entire cord could be put inside the head, you better remember to route the cord back out before putting the head on (you won't remember the first time...or the tenth).

2] required you to put the cord in a slot in the top of the cabinet before/while setting the head on the cabinet

ideally, if your power cord has wide and narrow blades on it (NEMA 1-15 or NEMA 5-15 ... the standard plugs in the USA), the narrow blade wants to be connected to the gray (usually) wire in the game.

That connects the hot wire from the outlet to the wire going directly to the power switch. Minimizes the amount of circuitry that can shock you if you turn off the power using the machine's power switch.

#6 69 days ago

Baldtwit ... thanks for the insights. I will be making the wires and the terminal block so that wide and narrow blades remain correctly mounted. I haven't figured a solution for the hitch knot yet. If I leave the knot out maybe a "HEY DON"T TOUCH THAT" shout might work. I do not anticipate having to remove the head often once the restoration is complete. This will be my home game.

#7 69 days ago

@KYBingo, what if you routed out a small area for a computer-style power cord connector as used on the modern pinball machines? Simple to remove from the back door. I believe that @mk1mod0 is planning to do this for his acrylic Golden Gate project.

Alternatively, what about routing out a little notch in the side of the door somewhere (maybe on the bottom right well under the trip bank mech), that way you could retain the strain relief, but would allow for easier storage and disassembly?

I just leave 'em as-is as, as you say, you don't have to remove the head very often.

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