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Williams, 1966You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider schudel5.
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I never really liked the newer 455s anyways. They tended to be off more than on in their blinking cycle. The older GE brass base 455 lamps were the best as far as being on and off about the same.
That said, I've started to use the warm white fast blink 455 LEDs from Comet. They look fairly good with incandescent and they are on more than off. The slow blink version is off more than on and if you have a bunch in a game behind the backglass, sometimes they're all off at the same time.
Quoted from RCA1:Are you feeling OK? I thought you were pretty hardcore anti-LED. Figured you would manufacutre your own incandescents before givivg up and going LED.
Routing games pretty much broke my spirit. Getting a service call because an "important" light isn't working made me cross over to the dark side. With that said, 90% of my games are incandescent. But with the quality of the 1SMD in warm white with frosted domes and non-ghosting control, I'm coming around...slowly. 
Quoted from frenchmarky:Would adding anything simple to the lamp socket, say different resistors like a low ohm in series or a high ohm in parallel have any effect on the blink rate of the LED blinkers yet still be about as bright? Or is the rate going to stay essentially fixed no matter what?
From what I understand, there's some sort of a timer chip embedded into the lamp base. Adding a resistor to the socket isn't going to change the setting. If they are using a micro surface mount 555 timer you could change it but only if you could get inside and change the resistor and the capacitor on the timer.
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:How do I find out where you’re supposed to use 455s?
Typically in a backbox, the wood around the socket is dished out for the circular globe of the 455 bulb to fit.
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