If the spool is good and not melted, you could rewind it by hand.. Sure it would take a while but it is doable. I have never seen a coil forsale and only found them in junked out games. Just curious was it a winding failure or did the cooling fan fail to cause meltdown?

Damon

See if Steve Young will sell you just the empty bobbin then rewind it yourself.

I only know so much, but I believe the coil was prone to overheating from being beat to shit in a game. I believe that adding a cooling fan for that and the hopper motor help mitigate failure.

Disconnected wires are never good.
Fan technology today blows away (pun intended) stuff from this era, replacing it would be a wise investment.
Otherwise, I'd head over to the owners club and see what the best practices are. Having never owned this title, I can only speak from what I know.

Hello, Scott... the white wire/red tracer might be intended to be under the ground wingnut..your pic shows another w/r wire there, but is it by chance cut? mine has that color wire grounded.

Also, the coil is fed by a modified flipper power board. The dc to the coil should be pulsed, otherwise the coil (11 ohms) would draw enough current to burn up, or blow it's fuse. If your fan runs and blows air that's not likely your problem, I would look at that power control board. It has a fuse feeding the coil, if someone has bypassed the fuse, or put the wrong size in, your coil would possibly fry. If the transistor circuit that pulses the dc to the coil has failed, or the PIA (driver board) is on constantly, your coil could fry.

Mine kept blowing fuses. The problem was a coil winding in the hypercannon that was shorted to ground through the trigger lock bar (manufacturing defect). Luckily I fround it before disaster.
I can send you schematic shots of the board, or you can find them on IPDB.

As to the loose yellow wire, tomorrow I can take a peek at mine, but it appears to have pulled loose from the relay (white block nearest the wire). Don't hook anything back up until we see a schematic or pics from my machine, tho.

Rod Davis

C 8938 Power Switching board is the schematic designation of the circuit feeding your coil. If I can remember how to make a screen shot, I'll send it along. The Fuse, F2 is a 4A SB.

Here is where the coil gets powered.

Screenshot_20211130-212358_Adobe Acrobat (resized).jpg

The switching signal is from the PIA, and is on I5J2 3 & 4, aqnd should be 0/ 1.4 VDC, this pulse turns on the transistors, which apply the ground for your coil, and that line should pulse from 120 vdc (sorry, I said AC earlier) to 0V. When properly pulsing you should see around 118 VDC. Pulsing limits the time the high current flows through your coil, thereby limiting the heat. If a switch is stuck on, or a short circuit exists, it will fry.

Hope this helps.
Rod

BTW, I'm not sure what you were asking, but the subfloor lifts out, tilt it sideways while lifting the front end, pulling it gently toward the front (coinbox) of the cabinet. ...the wiring loom has connectors in the backbox that can be disconnected, so your PF can be removed entirely.

ebay.com link: itm

Whoa!! $300 for a coil!!

The price of near-unobtainium??

Here is the block diagram.

Screenshot_20211201-074420_Adobe Acrobat (resized).jpg