(Topic ID: 304266)

Hyperball gun coil replacement

By mscottson

1 year ago


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Topic Stats

  • 18 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Zigzagzag
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 1 year ago

Hello everyone,

My Williams Hyperball gun coil fried recently and I'm wondering if there's any sort of alternative for the WLL-SD2451588 since all the NOS seems to be sold out at this time. Looking into it myself I saw that maybe http://www.apbenterprises.com/ might be worth reaching out to however if anyone has run into this before and can point me in the right direction that would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks again,
Scott

gun coil (resized).jpg
#2 1 year ago

If the spool is good and not melted, you could rewind it by hand.. Sure it would take a while but it is doable. I have never seen a coil forsale and only found them in junked out games. Just curious was it a winding failure or did the cooling fan fail to cause meltdown?

Damon

#3 1 year ago

Hello Damon,

Unfortunately the coil seems pretty damaged to the point where repairing it probably won't be possible since the plastic sleeve is completely melted to the windings and the coil stop seems to be wedged in pretty good. I also noticed that one of the wafers on the one side of the coil is also damaged pretty badly so I will also have to see if replacements or an alternative can also be found (or made). Here are some screenshots attached for reference and again if anyone has any suggestions for what can be used as a coil replacement I'm all ears.

Best Regards,
Scott

gun coil 2 (resized).jpggun coil 3 (resized).jpggun coil 4 (resized).jpg
#4 1 year ago

See if Steve Young will sell you just the empty bobbin then rewind it yourself.

#5 1 year ago

I asked PBR a while back :

We have been told by one of our customers, that our Gottlieb A18102 Coil can be used as a substitute. The resistance of the coil will be different but our customer claims it works fine.
Our coil comes with solder on terminals, you will have to adapt the original wire harness.
http://www.pbresource.com/hhouse/gtb-a18102.jpg

I haven't tried the suggested coil yet, waiting for parts for my Hyperball.
But the dimensions are right.
I cut off the diode as the original didn't seem to have one.

#6 1 year ago

Hello Zigzagzag,

Thanks for your reply. I just got off the phone with Steve Young earlier from the Pinball Resource who stated all the information you provided so that seems to be the route to go. I'll still need to find a replacement for the spacer but before anything I need to diagnose what caused the original coil to overheat in the first place.

Wish me luck,
Scott

#7 1 year ago

I only know so much, but I believe the coil was prone to overheating from being beat to shit in a game. I believe that adding a cooling fan for that and the hopper motor help mitigate failure.

#8 1 year ago

Hi Dudah,

I turned on the machine and I can see that the original fan is still spinning so that seems good. Would you still think an additional fan or something else should be added?

I was doing some quick digging around and I found a few other suspect things. For starters I found a rectifier under the playfield that has a disconnected wire. Not sure which leg it is supposed to be attached to so I haven't tried to reattach it to anything yet. I have also noticed that there is a wire that's cut in the backbox. I will have to try and trace it to see what they're used for since I'm not completely sure.

Finally is the loom fairly easy to take disconnect or what would be the best way to gain access under the subflooring?

Thanks again,
Scott

cutwire (resized).jpgdisconnected wire (resized).jpg
#9 1 year ago
Quoted from mscottson:

Hi Dudah,
I turned on the machine and I can see that the original fan is still spinning so that seems good. Would you still think an additional fan or something else should be added?
I was doing some quick digging around and I found a few other suspect things. For starters I found a rectifier under the playfield that has a disconnected wire. Not sure which leg it is supposed to be attached to so I haven't tried to reattach it to anything yet. I have also noticed that there is a wire that's cut in the backbox. I will have to try and trace it to see what they're used for since I'm not completely sure.
Finally is the loom fairly easy to take disconnect or what would be the best way to gain access under the subflooring?
Thanks again,
Scott
[quoted image][quoted image]

Disconnected wires are never good.
Fan technology today blows away (pun intended) stuff from this era, replacing it would be a wise investment.
Otherwise, I'd head over to the owners club and see what the best practices are. Having never owned this title, I can only speak from what I know.

1 week later
#10 1 year ago

Hello, Scott... the white wire/red tracer might be intended to be under the ground wingnut..your pic shows another w/r wire there, but is it by chance cut? mine has that color wire grounded.

Also, the coil is fed by a modified flipper power board. The dc to the coil should be pulsed, otherwise the coil (11 ohms) would draw enough current to burn up, or blow it's fuse. If your fan runs and blows air that's not likely your problem, I would look at that power control board. It has a fuse feeding the coil, if someone has bypassed the fuse, or put the wrong size in, your coil would possibly fry. If the transistor circuit that pulses the dc to the coil has failed, or the PIA (driver board) is on constantly, your coil could fry.

Mine kept blowing fuses. The problem was a coil winding in the hypercannon that was shorted to ground through the trigger lock bar (manufacturing defect). Luckily I fround it before disaster.
I can send you schematic shots of the board, or you can find them on IPDB.

As to the loose yellow wire, tomorrow I can take a peek at mine, but it appears to have pulled loose from the relay (white block nearest the wire). Don't hook anything back up until we see a schematic or pics from my machine, tho.

Rod Davis

#11 1 year ago

C 8938 Power Switching board is the schematic designation of the circuit feeding your coil. If I can remember how to make a screen shot, I'll send it along. The Fuse, F2 is a 4A SB.

#12 1 year ago

Here is where the coil gets powered.

Screenshot_20211130-212358_Adobe Acrobat (resized).jpg
#13 1 year ago

The switching signal is from the PIA, and is on I5J2 3 & 4, aqnd should be 0/ 1.4 VDC, this pulse turns on the transistors, which apply the ground for your coil, and that line should pulse from 120 vdc (sorry, I said AC earlier) to 0V. When properly pulsing you should see around 118 VDC. Pulsing limits the time the high current flows through your coil, thereby limiting the heat. If a switch is stuck on, or a short circuit exists, it will fry.

Hope this helps.
Rod

#14 1 year ago

BTW, I'm not sure what you were asking, but the subfloor lifts out, tilt it sideways while lifting the front end, pulling it gently toward the front (coinbox) of the cabinet. ...the wiring loom has connectors in the backbox that can be disconnected, so your PF can be removed entirely.

#16 1 year ago

Whoa!! $300 for a coil!!

The price of near-unobtainium??

#17 1 year ago

Here is the block diagram.

Screenshot_20211201-074420_Adobe Acrobat (resized).jpg
#18 1 year ago
Quoted from catvilledoorman:

Whoa!! $300 for a coil!!
The price of near-unobtainium??

See earlier posts for a cheaper alternative.

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