(Topic ID: 199895)

SOLVED: Hurricane won’t enter initials

By jmountjoy111

6 years ago


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c and e.jpg
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82FB06FA-D7D2-48AD-B022-D024B880F0A8 (resized).jpeg
#1 6 years ago

So this is probably something simple that I am missing but I just went through this hurricane top to bottom. Every mech cleaned. It came out nice imo. But I played a couple of games tonight to test it and realized that it will not let me enter my initials. Flippers fire but letters won’t move. Just three blank spots. Any thoughts?

82FB06FA-D7D2-48AD-B022-D024B880F0A8 (resized).jpeg82FB06FA-D7D2-48AD-B022-D024B880F0A8 (resized).jpeg
5A4DB3EF-03D7-405D-9212-3785540FBF3C (resized).jpeg5A4DB3EF-03D7-405D-9212-3785540FBF3C (resized).jpeg

#2 6 years ago

U7/U8 on the driver board, or related circuitry.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

#3 6 years ago

I will start there. I appreciate it. I had my fingers crossed for a non-board issue lol.

#4 6 years ago

I replaced u7 and u8 today just to see if that would fix anything. Still the same though.

It’s just the lane change in general that does not work I noticed today. When the extra ball is lit it will only move with the pop bumpers. Not the flippers.

#5 6 years ago

Hmm. Is it supposed to use double switches but only have single switches installed?

#6 6 years ago

Mine only has single switches. Maybe someone else that has the game would be willing to check

#7 6 years ago

Here is some information about the pre-fliptronic flipper switch detection:
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Cabinet_Flipper_Switch_Detection_Problem_Diagnosis_for_Pre-FlipTronics_Games

easy way to test this circuit is to make a short on IC U7-U8 on PDB with a small screwdriver between 'c' and 'e' (red circles) and machine in switch test T.1
If it registers, the big cement resistors are possible bad.
If it doesn't register, check traces on MPU and PDB, ribbon cable.

c and e.jpgc and e.jpg

#8 6 years ago

Awesome.

Some progress has been made. I had some issues with the ribbon cable before so I threw the one from my fish tales in there and now I can change lanes wth the left flipper. The right one is still not working though. I can pull the boards and check traces. Could there be an issue wth the switch itself?

#9 6 years ago

You can do a continuity check with boards and ribbon cable still installed.

green line: C1 = from CPU PDB U7/U8 pin4 to PDB CPU J206-1
red line : R2 = U7-5 to J208-2
brn line : R1 = U8-5 to J208-1

Quoted from jmountjoy111:

Could there be an issue wth the switch itself?

The switch itself is the flipperbutton that grounds the kathode of U7/U8 (pin2), activating the phototransistor ('c' + 'e').

#10 6 years ago
Quoted from zaza:

You can do a continuity check with boards and ribbon cable still installed.
green line: C1 = from CPU U7/U8 pin4 to PDB J206-1
red line : R2 = U7-5 to J208-2
brn line : R1 = U8-5 to J208-1

The switch itself is the flipperbutton that grounds the kathode of U7/U8 (pin2), activating the phototransistor ('c' + 'e').

All three paths you suggested had continuity.

I shorted the u7/u8 and it did register in switch test so I am going to just replace the cement resistors next

#11 6 years ago

Yes, you can measure the resistors first. It is 3300 ohm.

#12 6 years ago

The resistors read 80ohm so I’m guessing they are a bit off lol. It should read 3300 ohm on the dmm right

#13 6 years ago

Even with J109/J110 connected, 80 Ohm is not expected.
Lift one leg of the resistor to measure out of circuit.
Check U7/U8 for short between legs, in particular between pin 1 and 2.

edit:
Is this original or aftermarket board ?

#14 6 years ago

It is an original board.

They measured 80ohm out of the board. I ordered a bunch of new ones. They weren’t expensive so why not lol.

I will look at the legs of u7/u8 and see if there are any shorts

#15 6 years ago

If R210/211 are 80 Ohm, the ir-LEDs inside the optocouplers U7/U8 are vaporized by now.

#16 6 years ago

So...... does that mean I just need to order new chips to go along with the new resistors?

#17 6 years ago

Yes, with 80 Ohm resistor the ir-LED got >10x the amount of current then the ideal value.

In manual page 2-8 you can find them under item 25 and 50
- resistor 210/211 = 3.3KΩ / 5W
- U7/8 opto isolator 4N25

#18 6 years ago

All parts have been ordered and should be here first of next week.

I really appreciate the help. The best part of pinside is that there is always someone who knows way more than me that is willing and able to help.

#19 6 years ago
Quoted from jmountjoy111:

willing and able to help

Glad I could help.

#20 6 years ago

I pulled the opto isolators and the 3300 ohm resistors off of a WPC board I have that resets just to check and the machine works perfectly with them. So problem solved. I have brand new ones on order to put in when they arrive. I’m just glad that it’s all working. Thanks for all the help

#21 6 years ago

Zaza, I gotta say, the images you produce to help people here are outstanding. I don't even have this issue on any of my games, but I screen cap them anyway, just because it's fantastic reference material. I know it's got to take you some time to put them together, so thank you for your efforts.

#22 6 years ago

No kidding. I really appreciated his help for sure. Made it super easy

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