After extensive work and time to get this up and running for a friend, I have an issue I could some some advice on.

Juggler left works fine, starts DMD animation sequence, backbox spins, Ball lock 1 initiates, and then ball fires to juggler right side. There the ball sits. Even when the system kicks the ball out via a lost ball eject, the next shot into the left will just initate "ball 1" lock again. No stacking ball locks for multiball. Right side juggler (landing hole) does not fire either, other than lost ball eject. All 3 pop bumpers are also out, altho one worked for a short time and then also ceased. They are all on the same column, but the entire column is not out, or the left side juggler and other functions would not work.

Switch tests function correctly, and I have already adjusted mechanical travel issues. It is not the forked copper leaf, or ms; they all work when actuated during a switch test.

The Controller/Power driver board was professionally rebuilt very recently, and fully tested by an amazing pro I was lucky to have access to.

The issues must be related to the MPU board and/or connectors. I rebuilt all the .0156 related to these switches over on the controller side just to be sure. I dont have any smaller IDC handy, so I removed, snipped, and rebuilt parts of the existing IDCs on the MPU, related to the blue/white, green/black, and other wires around these switches. Nothing appears to have an effect. No obviously burnt connectors on the MPU side, but I havent seen the back of that board yet. For a while I was sure it must be the wire connections to the MPU, since one pop suddenly worked for a day, and then was gone again. That could be bad solder on the board for those connectors too tho I suppose.

The fact that switch test and solenoid tests fire leads me to believe this is a processing issue either not communicating to/from the controller to the MPU (ex: ball fires from left to right, lands in right, doesn't move on to next processor step), or it could still be a connection issue I suppose (either I need to rebuild the smaller MPU connectors also, or replace the ribbon cable from the MPU to the controller)? Or maybe a chip?

Startup error report has nothing currently after all the other repairs were done. MPU lights light up, blink etc. as they should.

Historical info: The right flipper was locked on prior to all the work, smoked, and damaged a couple of connectors on the controller side. All assemblies have been replaced, board good, IDCs replaced, controller side all good, and I don't see any harness issues. I proactively recut and seated a number of connectors just for the heck of it related to these switches.

I am out of my depth at this stage. My options are: advice from my Pinside friends! Have the MPU board tested next, or seek a more senior repairman to assist. I am pretty deep in time and cost already for a friend on this one, so trying to avoid opt3. Any next steps are appreciated.

Thanks for your help!

To clarify further: Solenoids and switches work in test mode, but do not fire even when manually pushed during play.

Here is the advice I was given today:

"The solenoids fire in test mode clears any issues with communications from the CPU to the Driver.
The Switch test ok in test mode, clears any issues with the CPU reading the switch matrix.

What I've seen:

1. Test those switches with a BALL not your finger pressing the switch. I have seen that the test will pass a human press, since we might just push it a little deeper that the ball would when it lands in a cup as an example. When things get 'weird' I use the ball (Example, roll over switch works fine when press, but not when a ball rolls over it.. Common problem, your finger just pressing the arm a few thousands deeper than the ball)

2. When running the switch test, makes sure that the displayed switch is actually the switch your pressing. Its common to just hear the bong and think the switch is ok. Actually 'read' the DMD and verify its reading the matching switch.

3, When a game is in play mode, switches are in a state than when in play. A bad switch diode may not be noticed in game over/test mode, but will show its issue in play mode.
A. Hit game play, launch ball, when ball is in motion, put game in test and catch ball with hand. Then do switch test with ball
B. Check ever diode in the weird column, and check ever diode in the Row, where the switches start acting up ( so if its the 4th row down in column 3. Then check all switches in Row 4, and all in column 3)

Q: Did the battery ever leak in the CPU, I've seen issues with the CPU switch matrix due to damage under the header. Generally this shows up on test, but if you had a resistive short it could cause issue. If the battery never leaked, then you can generally ignore this. But if so, that's probably it.."

Tested with an without a ball, etc. Tested during play and test mode, etc. Will be going through the diodes and switches in that column and row next as it appears the MPU and connectors are not at fault.

Turned out to be two solder points touching on the dunk switch causing some issues on the column, and a couple of other repairs noted during discovery. I made it more complicated than it was.