(Topic ID: 242613)

Hurricane GI Issue

By jag8511

15 days ago

Topic Stats

  • 34 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 days ago by PinballManiac40
  • Topic is favorited by 5 Pinsiders


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#1 15 days ago

I'm fairly new to the pinball world and have an issue with my Hurricane that I would greatly appreciate some input on. The right side of the GI seems to be stuck on at all times except for attract mode. It will blink occasionally in attract mode. However, when the ball drains and all the GI should go out, it stays on. The other issue is that the start button and coin lights are not working either. I have new LEDs in them so I know the bulbs are good. Could these be related?

I assume it is either Q12 or Q14 that controls the GI but I'm not entirely sure. I uploaded a picture of what it looks like when the ball drains.

I can replace components if need be but still learning so I'm not sure where to look since the lights are on. It's confusing because they will blink in attract mode.

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#2 15 days ago

Check for a burnt connector.

#3 15 days ago

J120 has already had the connector replaced. No other signs of anything burnt related to GI. If that helps at all.

#4 13 days ago

Does this game have relays under the playfield at the back for the GI lights like Cyclone? If so, check the solder on the relays.

#5 13 days ago

I found that J120 and J121 where switched. I confirmed from the schematics. Both of those connectors had been redone and looks like they were plugged back into the wrong place. However, that didn't seem to fix anything. I did run through tests and found that the white - green connected to J121 control the right side GI that is stuck on. However, it does test as it should when running system tests. I'm also guessing that white-violet that is on connector J120 controls the start button and coin lights as that test didn't have any lights on at all when running the test. Interesting. Any ideas?

#6 13 days ago

Put some pictures of inside your back box. Well lit good pictures so people can’t see and try help.

#7 13 days ago

Check the traces on the back of the board leading to J120, it is likely that one could be burnt off. If the trace is good then check the driver transistors. The coin door lights may or may not be a separate issue but I would think they would be directly powered from a fused source and not switched by a driver transistor - but it could be.
Speaking of fuses.....you didn’t mention checking them; use a meter.

#8 12 days ago

Check all the fuses and all tested good. Couldn't see any burnt traces. I attached a couple pictures. I hope that helps some.

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#9 12 days ago

J120 pin 5, violet wire, needs to be moved over to the left to pin 6, according to the manual on page 3-12. hurricane pin GI (resized).png

#10 12 days ago

Interesting. If I move the violet wire to the correct pin. No lights come on on the right side GI. Move it back to pin 5 and the right side GI stays on but only blinks in attrack mode like before. No effect on coin or start button light. I have left the violet wire in the pin 6 where it should be.

#11 12 days ago

Now with the violet at pin 6, can you ground the tab of Q12? This should turn it on if Q12 is bad or if the signal is not coming from J115.

#12 12 days ago

I get nothing when I ground Q12. It does look like Q12 has been replaced before. I did test that my ground out wire was working on the left slingshot. Possible that Q12 is bad? Or what does that mean if ground out Q12 does nothing?

#13 12 days ago

Ok. I see the other problem. If you follow the trace from Q12 to J115, you will see that it is not connected to any wire at pin 12. So move the wire from pin 11 to pin 12 and there should be another jumper wire from between pin 10 to pin 11. There should be no wire going to pin 9. (Pinwiki for credit of the second picture) Hurricane J115 (resized).png
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#14 12 days ago

I can happily say that it fixed the start button and coin door lights! But still nothing to the right side of the GI. I did try to short out Q12 but nothing happened! Makes me wonder how much other wiring the previous owner got wrong....

#15 12 days ago

Do you have a jumper between pins 10 and 11 now?

#16 12 days ago

I do not. Here is what mine looks like. What page in the manual shows. J115? I’m understanding how to read that now but can’t seem to find it. Looks like I’ll have to re wire the J115 pin.

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#17 12 days ago

Looks like you should only need to add the jumper from pin 10 to pin 11. Sorry, I had edited post #13 probably at the time you were following just moving the 2nd wire without a jumper. I was following my T2 and see that I need a jumper in my game as well.

#18 12 days ago

I also am not able to locate the J115 wiring in the manual. Here is where I got it from. http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#General_Illumination_Problems

#19 12 days ago

No problem! I just now noticed your edit. I’ll bet that is the issue! I’ll work on it tomorrow after I get off work and post the results. It looks like there are a couple wires wrong on my J115.

#20 12 days ago

For the wiring of J115 consult the schematic.

For WPC-89 it is on page 3 (Power Wiring Diagram - Sheet 1 of 1).
For WPC-89S it is on page 4 (Power Wiring Diagram - Sheet 2 of 2).

Note the colors for Terminator 2 and The Addams Family are YEL and YEL-WHT. The schematic documents the later scheme used from Doctor Who onwards.

#21 11 days ago

According to the pinwiki photo...I should be adding a jumper from the 10 pin the 11 pin. Does anybody agree? The markups are what the pinwiki shows.
I did switch pin 4 to be a solid with a jumper to pin 5. I just reversed it. Not sure that matters but figured I would do it so it matches.

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#22 11 days ago
Quoted from jag8511:

I should be adding a jumper from the 10 pin the 11 pin. Does anybody agree?

Yes. It needs a jumper added.

Since a jumper is shorting between pins, it does not matter which on the 2 wires is the long one coming from the transformer. So, this will be the same answer for pins 2 and 3, 4 and 5, 7 and 8 as well as pins 10 and 11.

#23 11 days ago

The wires to pins 1, 6, and 12 look to be in the correct pin locations.

#24 11 days ago

That fixed it! The right side GI is now working as it should. The only issue I now have is that the second from the bottom light for the 4 cat's target seems to be staying on when all other lights go out but blinks normal during attract mode. I'll investigate more and report back. Huge help so far though. Thank you! Learning a lot.

#25 11 days ago
Quoted from jag8511:

The only issue I now have is that the second from the bottom light for the 4 cat's target seems to be staying on when all other lights go out but blinks normal during attract mode.

That sounds like an insert lamp failure. You can go into the single lamp test and page through each lamp to see what all lamps are on at the same time. Might be a whole row or column or just the one. That would help to know.

#26 11 days ago

If the lamp works correctly in the single lamp test and during game play, then that would be a bug in the game code. L-2 is the latest game code. You can see what version you have when you turn on the game.

#27 11 days ago

Testing ( First in line is the test that was ran, after that is what also was activate)

Juggler 1 | All scores x2 - credit button blinks
Juggler 2 | All scores x3 - credit button blinks
Juggler 3 | All scores x5 - credit button blinks
Juggler 4 | Clock - credit button blinks

Flipper lanes | 1st cat target - credit button blinks
Credit button | 2nd cat target
Left sling | 3rd cat target - credit button blinks
Right sling | 4th cat target - credit button blinks

Seems as though I have an issue with column 7 and 8

All other single lights work. And the cat insert lights work fine on their own.

#28 11 days ago

Can you post a picture of the bottom right side of the driver board with the wiring connected?

#29 10 days ago
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#30 10 days ago

Ok. I found a problem with the wiring on J136. The test results do not make any sence for what is connected, but I zoomed in on this connector because you can see the brand new bright white molex housing was installed. J136 pin 3 is correct according to the wiring chart, but pin 2 is not supposed to be there since the red wire is out of place. Further in the chart shows the red wire should go to J135 pin 7. So move this red/blue wire over to a new connector (.100" pin).

FYI, J133, J134, and J135 are all connected together so they can be moved around in any order as long as the right color wire is on the correct pin number.

Ex. J133 pin 1 is connected to J134 pin 1 and connected to J135 pin 1 via the traces between the connectors.


#31 9 days ago

Genius! Thank you pinballmaniac40! I am happy to say that everything tests 100%. I now have a fully functioning Hurricane. Whoever did the wiring to fix those connectors sure didn’t do a good job. Thank you for being patient and helping me understand how to trouble shoot issues like this. It will greatly help me out in the future.

#32 9 days ago

That is great to hear. I was happy to lend my knowledge. It is how we'll keep these games working for many years. How about post a picture of your working game? Enjoy!!

#33 9 days ago

Looks beautiful!

Now to fix BK2000

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#34 9 days ago
Quoted from jag8511:

Now to fix BK2000

I replied to your open thread yesterday to see how that's going. Waiting to hear back on that thread.

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