(Topic ID: 120810)

Hurricane Ferris Wheel And 50V Circuit (Help)

By paulywalnuts23

9 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 31 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by wxguy22
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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Vac J102.jpg
50Vac plus motor.jpg
image.jpg
red - wire 2.jpg
#1 9 years ago

So I was fixing the an issue with the wiring to my drop target opto board and when I got that fixed and put the pf down to do a test game I discovered that the Ferris Wheel no longer turns.. The opto works that registers the left cheek light, however the motor won't turn. I tested the 50V circuit that runs the motor and I am only getting 38 volts, is this normal?

Anyone have any advice here?

Thanks.

#3 9 years ago

Bump. Please somebody...

#4 9 years ago

First, download the manual from the internet pinball database.

Check out pages 1-39 and 1-40 and make sure all fuses are good and correct values, and that the status LEDs are all doing what they should.

If the game has a high-voltage interlock inside the door, close it.

At rest, you should read solenoid high voltage potential on both lugs of the ferris wheel motor, about +50 VDC. Is this present?

Page 3-6 shows the ferris wheels at solenoid number 6, driven by Q66 through J130.7.

So momentarily grounding J130.7 should start the motor running. Verify the MOTOR runs, not just the ferris wheels as something else may be wrong between the two.

If you ground J130 pin 7, does the motor turn?

#5 9 years ago

I will go and try the grounding trick.

So you know I have went into the diagnostic mode and turned on the Ferris wheel and it doesn't come on.. Also if I test the 50V pins on the board where the Ferris Wheel get it's voltage I am only getting 38 Volts…

#6 9 years ago

38 VDC is pretty low. Try disconnecting the connector and read the voltage on the header pins with connector disconnected.

If the motor runs when you ground the signal wire the voltage level is OK.

#7 9 years ago

That is from the Header Pins…

#9 9 years ago

And Grounding J130.7 has no effect on the game...

#10 9 years ago

There is a relay board for the Ferris Wheel under the play field. I would make sure the plugs are firmly seated and all the wires are intact. 38 volts sounds pretty low to me. Almost like you lost one side of a bridge.

#11 9 years ago
Quoted from Karetaker:

There is a relay board for the Ferris Wheel under the play field. I would make sure the plugs are firmly seated and all the wires are intact. 38 volts sounds pretty low to me. Almost like you lost one side of a bridge.

So a Power Rebuild would be in order if I wanted to bullet proof it or if I just wanted to fix the issue, possibly a new bridge rectifier?

#12 9 years ago

Also all connection are firm on the reply board and it appears to be passing power and such..

#13 9 years ago

You can test the bridges and see if you have a bad one. If you have a Meter it explains how to test them here:

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#WPC_Power.2FDriver_Board_Generations

It could just be a cracked or cold solder as well. These bridges produce heat which can turn a solder cold over time.

#14 9 years ago

A connector under the playfield probably came unplugged.
When measuring the voltage at the motor or the motor relay, put one lead of your meter to a ground braid in the game to get true ground.

Similar to the way coils work, one side is 50 volts plus, the ground side is switched and isnt always there.

#15 9 years ago

Mrjamma I do that when I do my tests... I have checked all connections to Relay board and everything is good. All connections to the motor are good as well. Get 38.5 Volts at the header pin and at the motor connection.

#16 9 years ago

Also check J116, J117, & J118 (Probably J116). They will have a grey wire with yellow stripes. That's your 12v line which will run to the relay board. Make sure they are firmly seated. But, still I go back to the fact that you only have 38 volts. A coil normally reads voltage closer to 70V. Which is why it sounds to me like you are missing one side of your AC on a bridge.

#17 9 years ago

Getting 15 Volts on the Grey/yellow stripe at the relay board.

#18 9 years ago

It's all Vac to the motor without a bridge rectifier.
You can take a red wire and make a jumper between pin 1 and 6 of the relais-board.

red - wire 2.jpgred - wire 2.jpg

#19 9 years ago
Quoted from zaza:

It's all Vac to the motor without a bridge rectifier.
You can take a red wire and make a jumper between pin 1 and 6 of the relais-board.
red - wire 2.jpg (Click image to enlarge)

Yes but the power to run the actual motor comes directly from the Power Drive Board from the 50V circuit (White-Blue Wires) and I am only getting 38.5 volts at those pins. That is why the though was it could be a rectifier. I haven't gotten a chance to test the rectifiers but will be doing that here shortly.. I mean it is a 50V circuit and I am only getting 38.5 volts, this is an issue there the question is just want it is.

#20 9 years ago

Looking at the Power Driver board Schematic it would be BR3 or BR4 that would be causing my problem…

#21 9 years ago

So here is a new twist to the plot went through all the test points and everything looks good except TP6 which is the 50V test point before the Rectifier and I am getting like 75 Volts there.. Hmm…

#22 9 years ago

Looking more closely at the circuit, it has to be BR3.

#23 9 years ago

The ferris wheel motor doesn't run on the 50 VDC LINE. See the above schematic. AC voltage is fed directly to the motor lugs via the relay (which does operate on DC volts).

#24 9 years ago

Please explain these wires then?

image.jpgimage.jpg

#25 9 years ago
Quoted from paulywalnuts23:

Looking more closely at the circuit, it has to be BR3.

Allright, we read the schematics in a different way, but that's ok.
Here is PDB added in the picture with the Wht-Blu wires included. Just before BR3, the path follows to J104 and J105, which are feeding the motor with 50Vac, only interrupted by the relay-board.

50Vac plus motor.jpg50Vac plus motor.jpg

#26 9 years ago

Right. So if you temporarily connect a jumper from relay board J2 pin 1 to pin 6 as suggested previously, this will bypass the control and force the motor ON.

If you do this does the motor come ON?

If yes: the motor and operating voltage are good.

Then: temporarily connect a jumper from GROUND to relay board J1 pin 2. You should hear the relay CLICK and the motor should turn ON.

What are your results from these tests?

#27 9 years ago

Got it guys.. Thanks for being persistent will me.. Appears relay board isn't getting power.. I have been looking at the opto board for some reason and thought it was what was controlling the signal that starts the Ferris Wheel thus when checking voltage earlier in the thread that is where I was checking to see if it was getting supply voltage of 12volts.

Anyway shorting pins J2 1 and 6 turns the Ferris Wheel on..

I have fixed the 12 Volt wire and we are back to normal…

Do you guys not think it is weird though that I am only getting 38 volts at the 50 volt source?

#28 9 years ago

I think the 50Vac is ok, with 38Vac the coils would be weak and doubt if the rectified power would be 75Vdc as you mention in post #21.
Also the fliptronicboard is connected with this 50Vac, so flippers would then be weak as well.
Did you measure Vac from GND to one of the WHT-BLU wires, or measure between the WHT-BLU wires ?

#29 9 years ago

Measured it directly from the pins on the board to ground. Nothing is weak as it pertains to flippers..

Paul

#30 9 years ago

Try it this way:
Vac J102.jpgVac J102.jpg

6 years later
#31 2 years ago

I need to replace my motor. It looks like to get to both motor screws, I will need to remove the whole Ferris wheel assembly. Is there any video/step by step instructions on how to do this?

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