Bump for 3 above posts.
Ill take 180 for restore lot and 20 for the 1 ferris wheel.
Wire forms are free shipping.

I was out today validating the Pinmap and ran across a Hurricane pin that had a splotchy DMD and it seemed all the lights were out. I was thinking of approaching the owner to fix the light problem, but was curious why the DMD was acting very weird. I didn't see anything with my google-fu skills saying how to repair a DMD that only partially worked in splotches. Has anyone run across a similar problem?

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Reseating ribbon cables has worked for me before with dodgy display probs.

Having trouble finding a part number for the 3-lamp housing over the right ramp.
As you can see, mine is severely warped from heat generated by the bulbs.
I think it's part # B-10999... but don't see any aftermarket repros or NOS pieces anywhere.

Anyone ever replace this or know of a source to get one?
Thanks in advance!

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This is the same lamp housing used in High Speed if that helps. They're interchangeable.

Thank you very much! With that in mind, this is good:
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-B-10999

Check with Pinball Resource as well. It's where I got mine a few years ago.

Pinball Inc has them
https://www.pinballinc.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=34_85&product_id=218

I don't like any of the Gottlieb clown theme pinballs or any clown theme pinballs and yet I love all of the clown artwork on the Hurricane from the Cabinet to the Playfield to the Translite to the Clown Time clowns animation. I guess I love everything about Hurricane.

Hi guys,

New owner of an hurricane pinball.
Already ordered color dmd and titan rubbers.

Where can I find the slingshot plastics?

What do you use for backbox lighting?
1smd non ghosting or
2smd white non frosted Bulb?

What about the playfield?

Thx

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Welcome to the club! I guess you're the one that bought the Titan set I created, just got a $1.22 credit from them!

I have Pinball Centre slingshot plastics on mine, they're a good color match, some of the ones out there are not. You can also pick up the dummy plastic from them. Probably a good idea to buy a couple, they're always broken. The color doesn't match as well, it's not bad, and at least it's not broken. But if you want it to match the upper piece, you may want to buy both. I just removed my upper since it's not really needed.

https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/hurricane/?p=2

Luckily they'll ship to you since you live in Canada (no US shipping).

I purchased my machine from a guy that owns a light company, so it was already loaded with LEDs (luckily tastefully). So can't help out much there. I did add a couple brighter ones in a few places around the playfield (cool white).

Please let us know how the upgrades go.

Yes thats me loll, thats funny

I will look at the website, thx a lot.

Im on the fence for 2smd or 1smd non ghosting.

I was also thinking about powdercoating the rails and legs in black with some sort of flakes. Anyone has done this?

I go with 1 smd for inserts, 2 smd frosted for GI, and frosted 1 smd for the backbox. I.used warm white behind the disc. Cool white for the outer areas of the backbox

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looks beautiful

Also from Canada... I ordered a Titan kit for Hurricane a month ago and it's still stuck at the USPS station in Illinois. You get yours yet? Packages seem to taking forever to clear customs.

Usps/canada post is very bad at the moment. Cheaper but you wait so long…

Hello everyone,

I am in need of some help. I am almost done restoring my Williams Hurricane after a year and a half (yes a long project for my first restor). Prior to removing all of the wires in the backbox and cabinet I put labels on them indicating where they went. When I put the playfield back into the game this weekend the game powers up, but will not start.

On the WPC Driver Board, I found on a wire that had broken off one of the IDC connectors coming off of the J118 header. Coming off the 4 pin IDC connector that goes into J118 there are two other 4 pin IDC connectors hooked up with a Z connector (why I don't know exactly). I went and got some 22ga wire (which I think was still too thick), but as I was trying to fix it three of the other wires broke off (the gray/yellow wires and black). Now I have a mess on my hands as I am a little confused how the whole thing was hooked up in the first place.

I have attached a picture of how I think it goes but hell I am not sure.

Could anyone share any pictures (or a drawing) how this is supposed to be hooked up?

Thank you very much for your help. I'll post some pictures of my game when I am done.

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Can’t help but did you source a new playfield and decals, where did you purchase? Do you like them?

Hope that helps

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Yes it does. My next problem is I don't have an IDC .156" punch down tool. I've tried small tools but it just doesn't work right.

I found this manual/article on Williams 1990-1999 WPC.
http://pinballsupernova.com/Williams%20Repair%20Guide/Williams%201990-1999%20WPC.pdf

In it they state that the Z-connector eliminated it by splicing the wires together, soldering and heat-shrinking.
Your thoughts?

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I did not get a new playfield, I just touched up the old playfield. It is ok. I wish I would have clear coated it. Maybe some other time.

I did had totally stripped/sanded down the entire cabinet. I got new decals off of a seller on Ebay. The were beautiful. Here is the link:

ebay.com link: itm

So I did as the article said. I twist tied them for now. Game powers up and all the GI lights are working. The lights I added to the pop bumpers even work. Game has zero credits. I tried to go into TEST mode but it does not work and the game won't start....Urghhh

Any ideas?

Put a quarter in?
Sounds like a ground or connection to the door itself should be checked - especially if the test buttons are out.

Uhm...I know that I took the ground cable from the coin door and grounded it to the leg bolt plate inside the cabinet where I ran new ground braid.

I had the coin door powder coated. Does powder coating hinder grounding?

That's a different type of grounding. I mean for the switches themselves. Check wiring to the coin door; specially the 'common' (I think, WMS used 'black' as common there..) The braid - yes, you should connect it, but it wouldn't cause this. That's so that you don't shock yourself if you mis-wire a coil or something.

Coyote,
I figured out my problem. Thank you for your help.

Found

Hey all. Just joined the club!

Are there no lamps in the pop bumpers?

Anyone have a topper for sale Mine is missing.

Thanks!

Welcome to the club

You purchased it in ontario?
How much you paid if you dont mind?

No lamps in pops from factory.
Many ad them.
Toppers pop up every once awhile.

Actually, several of the first machines had factory lighted pops. Mine does.

Thanks man! It was part of a multiple pin deal so depends on how I distribute the total but into it for close to 4k either way which is a little on the high end!! Maybe a lot on the high end lol!

Ok cool thanks!!!

I wonder why they pulled them from production!! I mean it is 10 cents a socket back then lol!

Alouette in MTL has an old one in stock... plastic looked a bit yellowed when I saw it.
Parts dept is open Moday, Wednesday and Friday

Alouette Amusement
8505 Chemin Delmeade, Mont-Royal, QC H4T 1M1
(514) 342-9111

Mine has them too.
If memory serves, they aren't part of the GI, but rather the lamp matrix

Oh cool thanks! I seen a post where they were selling off some inventory! I will inquire!

Ahh controlled lamps...I guess people who add sockets would tie them into the GI then likley.

Hey all! My blue Ferris wheel is slipping. I read a couple threads on it. I have a new drive belt I will clean and install and tighten the tension if needed.

Id like to remove the whole mech and tear it apart and clean it up but is it a nightmare to remove? Can I change the belt without removing the mech.

Any other tips? I haven't took a good look at it yet but read the mech needs to come out from the top and if i have to tear half the machine apart do do so I'd prefer to not do that if possible.

I removed my Ferris wheels recently. Wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. Was able to do it without removing the big ramps. Long tools and magnets help.

Sweet thanks!

Hoping for a little help from the community here . I am changing my ferris wheel belt but really struggling to get the wheels back on after inatalling the new belt. Just seems impossible like the belt is too thick or there should be some kind of recess in the back of the wheel ... help

oh my god, i have changed the belt recently.
it's hard to give advice here, i struggelt a lot with it, i didn't take everything off.
i somehow managed to get the belt in position with a flat screwdriver, pushing it through the thin openings.

There is a pulley on ferris wheel mech that loosens with a screw driver, it also acts as tension for the belt. Once loose, you can feed belt much easier over all the pulley wheels.
This is on the other side of the ferris wheels on left. You have to pull playfield up to see the third pulley and set screw to loosen.

Hello guys,

Where in the menu i can enable a ball saved on an hurricane?

This is your ball save button right here.

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Lolll true

But still

Kerry Richard was kind enough to send me some Hurricane parts to share with others. I'll be at the York show if anybody needs something. Can also mail stuff out if there are no York takers. Please only request what you need, thanks!

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