(Topic ID: 43902)

Hulk broke again!! Any ideas on how to fix it for good???

By mpatricksp

11 years ago


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There are 67 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 11 years ago

Well My Hulk’s arms stopped going up again, haven't taken it apart yet but I assume it is the coil wire again. Thinking about running a heavier wire up to the coil this time as I am getting tired of taking it out of the machine as it's about a 2 hour job.

Any other thoughts on how to keep the wire form breaking.

Thanks.

#2 11 years ago

I have the same problem. Stern send me a new coil and a little board. I wish I could feel confident and comfortable taking him apart to fix it but I don't. Waiting for Stern to either walk me through it over the phone, or holding my breath they send someone out. I've had issues since I got this. I/O board died, flipper issues, this has NOT been fun. I do love the pin though, just very frustrated.

#3 11 years ago

You can use shrink tubing to cover the wire and the lug after you solder the connection. Make sure there is enough slack in the wire so that your not stressing the lug or else the lug will break.

#4 11 years ago

Run a bigger wire and insulate it with shrink tube or electrical tape. A moving part like this puts a lot of wear on the harness.

#5 11 years ago

Sounds like a plan. I'll pick up some shrink wrap and give it a try.

#6 11 years ago

I have to perform this fix as soon as the part arrives from Stern. Can you upload any pictures if you have them from your first go 'round?

#7 11 years ago

Didn't take any the first time. I will try to take some this time and post them.

Plan on tackling it tonight when I get home from work. Also going to see if I can find and real short screw driver as that will make it alot eaiser to get to some of the screrws, not a lot of room to work in there.

#8 11 years ago

Well He is working again for how long we will see. I took a couple of pictures for those who wanted them and I will upload them here in a minute. They are from my phone and don't look to good.

The hardes screws to get to are the two in the bottom of his body I had forgot all about them. If someone knows how to get the thing out with his body attached let me know as I can't get the two screws going into his chest put back in once I have the assembly in the machine.

It looks like it works fine without them but just wondering if someone has a better way.

#9 11 years ago

Pic

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#10 11 years ago

pic

IMG_0064.JPGIMG_0064.JPG IMG_0065.JPGIMG_0065.JPG IMG_0066.JPGIMG_0066.JPG

#11 11 years ago

Thanks. Looks like a real pita!

#12 11 years ago
Quoted from exflexer:

You can use shrink tubing to cover the wire and the lug after you solder the connection. Make sure there is enough slack in the wire so that your not stressing the lug or else the lug will break.

Normally this is good advice, except there are no lugs on the coil that raises Hulk's arms, wires solder directly into the coil itself.

This coil connects via a two wire connector and is wound tight from the factory around the main game wire harness--this is part of the reason the wires break so often. Be sure to keep plenty of slack so that the wire from connector to coil doesn't break after repair.

#13 11 years ago
Quoted from TheFamilyArcade:

Thanks. Looks like a real pita!

Yes it is. I am getting better thou only took me about a hour and a half this time.

#14 11 years ago
Quoted from mpatricksp:

Well He is working again for how long we will see. I took a couple of pictures for those who wanted them and I will upload them here in a minute. They are from my phone and don't look to good.
The hardes screws to get to are the two in the bottom of his body I had forgot all about them. If someone knows how to get the thing out with his body attached let me know as I can't get the two screws going into his chest put back in once I have the assembly in the machine.
It looks like it works fine without them but just wondering if someone has a better way.

I would suggest buying a right angle screwdriver, it helps for those screws closest to the playfield.

#15 11 years ago

Yea I got one today and worked much better, still a pain thou.

#16 11 years ago

I would double up the existing wire on the coil and solder it to a heavier guage wire.

You can protect the solder splice with heat shrink tubing.

It should never break again.

#17 11 years ago
Quoted from barakandl:

Run a bigger wire and insulate it with shrink tube or electrical tape. A moving part like this puts a lot of wear on the harness.

I think your suggestion is probably the best way to keep the wires from breaking, just replace the wires completely. If these coils had 18 gauge wire instead of what looks like 24 gauge, I'll bet we wouldn't be repairing this thing so often.

#18 11 years ago

That's what I wound up doing. I also put shrink wrap on the wire near the coil and zip tied them to the hole in the coil. Looks like that is what stern did but the red one busted at the zip tie the first time so it was too short to zip tie back on when I put it back together the first time. That may be why it broke again.

-1
#19 11 years ago

sell before the hype catches up to this pin to fix it for good.

#20 11 years ago

Try using this

th-2.jpegth-2.jpeg

#21 11 years ago

Any issues changing wire gauges?

#23 11 years ago
Quoted from pinmanguy:

sell before the hype catches up to this pin to fix it for good.

That's cold

#24 11 years ago
Quoted from TheFamilyArcade:

Any issues changing wire gauges?

No, no issues yet. I didn't replace the whole wire I just spliced a 18 gauge wire to the original and then put some shrink wrap on it, I suck at crimping on those stupid little pins.

I do have a big hammer but I decided not to try to pound the thing back up through the hole, maybe next time cause I will be a little pissed if I have to take it apart again.

#25 11 years ago

So using larger wire with smaller wire is ok? I'm totally new to this wiring stuff.

#26 11 years ago

As far as I know it shouldn't cause any problems. You shouldn't go the other way however and use a smaller wire on a bigger one, but it all depends on the current being drawen.

#28 11 years ago

The Hulk arm (up and down movement) on my Avengers Pro stopped working. He still has the movement side to side. I do not see any disconnected wires but maybe they could be out of sight. I called Stern and they are sending me a new coil and the small board. I am trying to follow some of the above information but please permit me to ask some questions to the knowledgeable people that know what they are doing. The coil in question is the one on Hulks back, correct? Do the two coils under the playfield have any thing to do with his movements? Does Hulk have to be taken completely out to replace the coil on his back? I was under the impression that there was no soldering involved - unless wires are disconnected of course. Before this happened I thought all of his movements were connected - either he worked or he didn't. I know this is asking a lot but is there any one out there that could give us (ok, me) step by step instructions on how this problem could possibly be fixed. Apparently this problem is rather wide spread with the Avengers (Pro and LEs). Any good information will be greatly appreciated.

#29 11 years ago

My guess is it's the same problem that I am having. The coil isn't bad it's just one of the wires is breaking. Not sure if the coil they are sending you is different than the original or not. But if you are replacing a coil then yes there will be soldering involved no way around it. Even if you aren't going to replace it you will have to solder the wire back on.

The two coils on the bottom that you can get to control his back and forth movement one goes left and one goes right. The coil in his back moves his arms up and down. There is no way to get to the coil without removing the entire bracket as the wires are inside his back.

I send someone here a pm with some simple directions, I will just post it here so others can see it. Getting the bracket out is not too bad it is just time consuming as long as you take your time.

#30 11 years ago

Yes the back coil. The lower coils do the side to side movement.
The coil is soldered to the wires. It is likely that either one of your wires broke or the small board is not working properly.

#31 11 years ago

Thanks for keeping us updated with this dilemma Patrick. Sounds like a big PIA! Question; when your hulk wire first detached, was it running the new code? I wonder if the new code with hulks upward movement being not as aggressive, helps avoid this problem?

#32 11 years ago

Here are some direcitons. Hope they help.

Taking the bracket out is pretty straight forward. You have to take his arms off there is a screw in each that is not to bad, you will need a short screw driver and will have to turn him as there isn't much room. Then you will have to remove the two screws in the base of the Hulk body, these are a real pain as there is no room at all. Best to have an offset screw driver. They also have lock tight on them so they are kind of hard to get started. There are also two screws that go through the back of the assembly into his chest. These I didn’t even know about until I had his body off as there is no way to see them or get at them whit the thing in the machine, they just pulled out as I lifted his body off the bracket. I know of no way to get them back in either because I can’t see how you can get the bracket through the hole with his body on, and once it’s in the machine you can’t get to them. Someone else may have a way but I couldn’t figure it out. I just left them out and it seems to work fine, the two screws at his base do a good job of holding the body on the bracket and I have not noticed him wobbling at all.

Once you get his body off then you can stand the playfield up and just take the screws and a couple of nuts out of the assembly on the bottom. Once you get the screws and nuts off you will have to turn the bracket about a ¼ turn so the posts his arms attach to are lined up with the biggest part of the hole. Then you just tilt it and get one of the posts through the hole and then it should just slide out. Be careful as the posts tend to get hung up on the plastic that is behind the Hulk but if you get the posts below the plastic before you get it turned completely you should be good you also have to watch all of the wires on the bottom of the playfield as they tend to grab hold of the bracket as you are turning it.

There are three connections you have to take off to get the bracket out. There is an IDC connection going to the board on the bracket, one connection going to the two coils you can see and one going to the coil in his back.

Once out you have access to the coil. The coil is held on with a couple of screws at the top of the assembly and comes apart real easy once you get it out, it is easier to solder the wires back on with the coil out of the bracket.

Putting it back together is just the reverse and like I said the only issue I had was the two screws going from the back of the bracket into his chest. Not sure how to get them back in with the playfield in the machine, could probably do it with the whole thing out but I never had an issue with his body flopping around even with the screws left out.

Hope this helps I am not the best at writing directions, just let me know if you have any questions.

Mike

#33 11 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

Yes the back coil. The lower coils do the side to side movement.
The coil is soldered to the wires. It is likely that either one of your wires broke or the small board is not working properly.

Is the small board just as hard to get to? And has anyone had just the board fail bit fine wiring I wonder?

#34 11 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Thanks for keeping us updated with this dilemma Patrick. Sounds like a big PIA! Question; when your hulk wire first detached, was it running the new code? I wonder if the new code with hulks upward movement being not as aggressive, helps avoid this problem?

First time it broke was shortly after I got it so it was with the old code. It looked like the first time the wire had been crimped on something and just broke at the zip tie or they pulled the zip tie too tight and it just couln't handle it because the wire was still soldered to the coil. The second time I think it broke because when I put it back on it was too short and I didn't get it back under the zip tie.

#35 11 years ago

If it's the board attached to the bracket it is easy to get at. Don't think you would have to remove anything but the board, but I am not real sure what board they are talking about.

2 weeks later
#36 11 years ago
Quoted from mpatricksp:

Here are some direcitons. Hope they help.
Taking the bracket out is pretty straight forward. You have to take his arms off there is a screw in each that is not to bad, you will need a short screw driver and will have to turn him as there isn't much room. Then you will have to remove the two screws in the base of the Hulk body, these are a real pain as there is no room at all. Best to have an offset screw driver. They also have lock tight on them so they are kind of hard to get started. There are also two screws that go through the back of the assembly into his chest. These I didn’t even know about until I had his body off as there is no way to see them or get at them whit the thing in the machine, they just pulled out as I lifted his body off the bracket. I know of no way to get them back in either because I can’t see how you can get the bracket through the hole with his body on, and once it’s in the machine you can’t get to them. Someone else may have a way but I couldn’t figure it out. I just left them out and it seems to work fine, the two screws at his base do a good job of holding the body on the bracket and I have not noticed him wobbling at all.
Once you get his body off then you can stand the playfield up and just take the screws and a couple of nuts out of the assembly on the bottom. Once you get the screws and nuts off you will have to turn the bracket about a ¼ turn so the posts his arms attach to are lined up with the biggest part of the hole. Then you just tilt it and get one of the posts through the hole and then it should just slide out. Be careful as the posts tend to get hung up on the plastic that is behind the Hulk but if you get the posts below the plastic before you get it turned completely you should be good you also have to watch all of the wires on the bottom of the playfield as they tend to grab hold of the bracket as you are turning it.
There are three connections you have to take off to get the bracket out. There is an IDC connection going to the board on the bracket, one connection going to the two coils you can see and one going to the coil in his back.
Once out you have access to the coil. The coil is held on with a couple of screws at the top of the assembly and comes apart real easy once you get it out, it is easier to solder the wires back on with the coil out of the bracket.
Putting it back together is just the reverse and like I said the only issue I had was the two screws going from the back of the bracket into his chest. Not sure how to get them back in with the playfield in the machine, could probably do it with the whole thing out but I never had an issue with his body flopping around even with the screws left out.
Hope this helps I am not the best at writing directions, just let me know if you have any questions.
Mike

Thx for posting this!

1 week later
#37 11 years ago

I'm going to try to do this now, just got a new coil from Stern..Thx for posting!!

#38 11 years ago

You has that the énerver has it is distributed.

#39 11 years ago

This is the coil that they sent me, it looks a little different than yours. Maybe they made some improvements I hope.

IMAG1538.jpgIMAG1538.jpg

#40 11 years ago

it went pretty smooth thanks for the directions! when I took the coil out I didn't see any broken wires and then when I was moving it around this is what I found..

IMAG1558.jpgIMAG1558.jpg

#41 11 years ago

Use lamp wire. Every moving mech that has issues I replace with this. It's made to be moved around.

#42 11 years ago

Anyone have a flipper die yet?

#43 11 years ago
Quoted from Butch2099:

it went pretty smooth thanks for the directions! when I took the coil out I didn't see any broken wires and then when I was moving it around this is what I found..

It looks like that twist tie cut the black wire clean through the insulation. I don't see any improvements or changes in the replacement coil.

#44 11 years ago
Quoted from TheFamilyArcade:

Anyone have a flipper die yet?

The game uses the same transistors other sterns use so flippers will die the same way. Dead flippers are simple to diagnose but not relevant to this thread. If you have a problem please start a new thread and provide decent details. "My flipper is dead" is not detailed enough.

#45 11 years ago

You get what you pay for I guess. At $7500 you guys need to stop cheapening things!

#46 11 years ago
Quoted from Butch2099:

it went pretty smooth thanks for the directions! when I took the coil out I didn't see any broken wires and then when I was moving it around this is what I found..

Yea that is what mine looked like the first time. Broke in the exact same spot but the red wire. Think the zip tie cut it also. The second time I think it broke because the wire was too short to put back the zip tie and I think it just broke from movement.

#47 11 years ago

I guess after 2 completely different issues to Hulk requiring disassembly of the mechanism, now having a flipper die on a 4 month old game is just hard to believe. Contrastly, Played my SM for years and nothing has ever broken.

Suppose it could be an actual broken flipper assembly. Hoping its just a fuse. Really don't want it to be a transistor.

#48 11 years ago
Quoted from mpatricksp:

Yea that is what mine looked like the first time. Broke in the exact same spot but the red wire. Think the zip tie cut it also. The second time I think it broke because the wire was too short to put back the zip tie and I think it just broke from movement.

Do you think I should have cut the zip tie? Kind of too late now anyway..

#49 11 years ago
Quoted from TheFamilyArcade:

I guess after 2 completely different issues to Hulk requiring disassembly of the mechanism, now having a flipper die on a 4 month old game is just hard to believe. Contrastly, Played my SM for years and nothing has ever broken.
Suppose it could be an actual broken flipper assembly. Hoping its just a fuse. Really don't want it to be a transistor.

Again, your lack of details make it impossible to help. Perhaps you don't want help and just want to complain (as that's all that's going on here). If you want help, open a new thread and properly describe your issue. The fact that Spider-Man hasn't broke yet is irrelevant. The fact that the game is only 4 months old is irrelevant. Dead transistors are common. I had one die on Spider-Man, 24, batman, acdc, lord of the rings, t3. Each time I upgraded to a beefier transistor and never saw the problem on that transistor again. It happens. Learn how to get help and fix things rather then whine about them in forums.

-1
#50 11 years ago

Sure thing. Maybe we'll all be like you someday. I sure hope not.

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