If it has the original caps and bridge rectifiers I would replace them. I also re-flow all the pin headers or replace ones that need it if I pull the board to do the bridge & caps.
Cheap & easy.
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If it has the original caps and bridge rectifiers I would replace them. I also re-flow all the pin headers or replace ones that need it if I pull the board to do the bridge & caps.
Cheap & easy.
Quoted from ChrisHibler:For an experienced board repairman, this might be cheap and easy.
But, what if the root cause is one of the 7 or 8 other items listed before caps and bridges in the PinWiki? Then the owner will have performed unnecessary board work. The old mantra to replace the bridges and caps has probably caused way more problems than it has solved. Let's not go there yet.
To the original poster...surf on over to http://www.pinwiki.com
Check out the Williams, WPC, "Disciplined process for resets" section. You'll find it.
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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
Yes, it could be something else or a combo of other issues but for me its standard fare to "bullet proof" a board doing a minimal shotgun approach on perishable components. In this case HS2 is likely 12 years old but still a candidate for bridge and cap replacement and the standard fare of checking connectors for issues and re-flowing header pins. Correct line voltage is assumed......
The only problems it could possible create is if someone is doing the replacement that does not know what they are doing in which case they should not be doing it if not comfortable doing so.
It could be something as simple as coil diodes or something more sinister, stay tuned.
Quoted from ChrisHibler:Like this, for instance....
I see this far too often. Wrong tools. Little expertise. Little experience. Lots of jumpers.
Someone was reading Clay's guides & had a pistol soldering iron.....
You can tell a professional iron becasue it has headlights on it.
Bridges and caps are cheap unless someone uses pliers or a torch to remove them.
Quoted from ChrisHibler:And some old rosin flux loaded solder...I love the crunchy brown stuff...
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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
That could be some Kester 44 prototype stuff........
Kester 44, extra crispy.
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