(Topic ID: 96130)

HSII Getaway Cab Restoration

By BR80

9 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 68 posts
  • 37 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 years ago by Aurich
  • Topic is favorited by 17 Pinsiders

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There are 68 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
12
#1 9 years ago

Recovered this pin from an operator’s garage about a year ago and spent sometime on and off fixing the mechanical issues. Really got started on the cabinet restore about two months ago. I enjoy reading other restore treads and thought I’d share my first attempt. There are a lot of better examples out there and the finished product isn't perfect, but it is perfect for me.
I wasn't going for ‘back to stock’ condition, but wanted to try a few different things...giving it the best shot I could.
Thanks to the folks here on pinside that have posted their restore examples, tips, and tricks. Couldn't have done it without this place.

Here’s a quick before and after pic if you don’t want to scroll the entire post. By the time I took the after photo, I had a better cell phone , but it’s still crappy camera...my apologies for the poor quality photos:
During-76-548.jpgDuring-76-548.jpg

When I brought it home there was no dmd, no sound, and very few things were working, but the playfield was in good shape. I had done some shop jobs and minor restorations, but not a complete top to bottom job before. It seemed like a daunting task, but I wanted to give it a try. This was staying in my collection and I was willing to put everything I’ve learn on pinside into action.

Playfield.jpgPlayfield.jpg
The playfield needed a deep cleaning, the grime under the ramp hadn’t been touched in twenty years.
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Nice shine after some elbow grease, like others have said...the dirt protected the playfield.

#2 9 years ago

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Standard faded cab, but what you can’t see is the craved in graffiti on the black portion.

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Looks like both sides were looking out an all glass window at some point..

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Header shot, beat-up bad..lots of random knife cuts, not even graffiti.

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The front looked really rough, but it gets much worse than you see here.

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With the operator’s lock bar removed, the real damaged is exposed.
Maybe someone tried to pry it open at some point, but that is one monster hole.

#3 9 years ago

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Left side fairly worked over also, chipped sides and lock bar holes.

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Close-up of the “Monster Hole”

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Backside of the “Monster Hole”

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Ouch, with the coin door assembly removed...the full extent can be seen.

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That thin sliver of wood is about the size of a toothpick, not much to work with.

#4 9 years ago

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After all the years of trash had been cleaned out, it’s still far from descent.

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Thought it could be sanded clean, but later the stains proved too much.

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Front left side of the cab had some serious separation.

#5 9 years ago

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Time to start the real work, had to be careful stripping around the Hole.

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Starting to layer-up the hole with bondo, think it took around five or six layers to finish.
Yea, ugly now...but that’s why sanded paper is around.

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Frontside getting more layers of bondo and sanding.

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#6 9 years ago

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Starting to strip the side

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Wood glue and clamping for the left side separation and more layers of bondo.

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Side completely sanded, but the graffiti was so deep, that area needed bondo also.
The top section also had some weird one inch channel carved into it, not sure why.

#7 9 years ago

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At least the bottom sanded clean, at this point best part of the cab..

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Bondo, sanding, bondo, sanding, bondo, sanding

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The inside was scratched up pretty bad, again bondo and orbital sander time.

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Filled in the bizarre one inch channel carved into the topside.

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That Hole is starting to look like it should.

#8 9 years ago

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Almost every corner of this cab and header needed to be re-shaped.

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#9 9 years ago

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Ghetto paint room, made with tarps and blue painters tape.

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Since the bottom was stained badly, the orbital sander didn’t clean it to well.
Decided to go with painting it a similar shade of red as the Getaway logo.

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That Monster Hole is looking good after a paint job or should I say looking gone.

#10 9 years ago

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Rookie mistake of not sanding the top section all the way smooth at first.
It’s ultimately covered by the backbox, unless it’s folded down...lesson learned.

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The back came out pretty good, although still waiting for some parts.

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Backside of the hole complete. The old problem area would have to be pointed out to be noticed.

#11 9 years ago

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Front decal on, bottom part of the decal had the lower “G” cut off due to aligning the gear shifter.

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Sides are done and the separated left front has sealed up nicely.

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Glass getting a test fit with the rails.

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Shiny stuff starting to go in.

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Time for the cabinet ground braid.

#12 9 years ago

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Good day when I picked up parts from the powder coater.

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OK, this is where my obsessive compulsive side kicked in and I went a little crazy.
I hate seeing exposed wires, so my goal was to sleeve everything I could (within reason).

During-39.jpgDuring-39.jpg
Not the cleanest of cable management jobs, but the coin door wiring assembly done.

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The cab is near 100%, now onto that sorry header in the background.

#13 9 years ago

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The back had some particle board corrosion in spots that needed more sanding than normal.

#14 9 years ago

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Not just a dented corner here, but a nice chunk taken out. Also a good angle to see that particle board corrosion on the back side.

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Gratuitous dog chill’n photo.

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Wood was cracking badly on the topside of the backbox. Bondo to the rescue again.

#15 9 years ago

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Ugh, Back to molding corners again.

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Backbox all prepped and ready for paint.

#16 9 years ago

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Something a little unconventional I wanted to try with the backbox door.

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#17 9 years ago

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The OCD kicked in again and I couldn’t put this back in without trying an experiment.

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After a time consuming few hundred passes over a buffer, got these results.
Still had to polish it with Mother’s, but it was good enough for my daughter to take this picture.

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#18 9 years ago

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Another thing I wanted to try was using these nylon stand-offs that were picked-up at the local hardware store.

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Figured by mounting it this way would give it a more Industrial look, plus give more space to route wires if needed.

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Backbox near complete, OCD cable management (routed wires & sleeved ribbon cables).

#19 9 years ago

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Coin door assembly installed.
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Cabinet mostly complete, time to put the backbox on and playfield in.

#20 9 years ago

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Backbox all wired and powered up.

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Decent paint job in back but it’s a little bare, still need the WPC warning…got a pm back from Matt and will be ordering a set this week.

#21 9 years ago

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There’s still a little work to finish up, but figured it was done enough to post this thread. If you made it all the way through, thanks for taking the time to read. There are a lot of non-pinball folks that will see and play this machine, but very few will understand the work that went into it like you guys can.
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#22 9 years ago

Congratulations, one of the nicest restorations of this machine. To me, this pin is a good beginner pin for someone who has never stripped the playfield.

#23 9 years ago

Great job documenting everything. Restoration looks awesome!

#24 9 years ago

awesome job!!!the ghetto red inside of the cab. looks good. don't forget to pick up a back box latch at marco ,pinball resource or pinball life. g.l. joe

#25 9 years ago

wow! very nice. great job on that beat to hell cabinet!

Brian

#26 9 years ago

Wow! Great work. Keep us updated on your playfield work... I'd like some pointers for my eventual playfield restore.

#27 9 years ago

Are you ready to sell it yet?
Really looks great!

#28 9 years ago

Wonderful job, that OCD can come in handy on something like this.

#29 9 years ago

Great job! Needed some inspiration to continue with my restoration

#30 9 years ago

That is so sexy in black! Nice job!

#31 9 years ago

Thanks guys, probably not the best title to put this much work into...but worth it to me in the end.
The decal job was the easiest part with no paint to color match and nothing to line-up on the corners.

#32 9 years ago

Wonderful job, really nice work. I really like the examples of the bondo and the woodwork, that's always been my weak point. That and decals, they scare the crap out of me, I'm always afraid I'm going to screw them up or not line up just right.

Thanks for sharing the project with us.

-Dave

#33 9 years ago

After reading this thread I think I will give my HSII some love. Will be using this as inspiration on how to do it the correct way.

#34 9 years ago

Beautiful work and love the OCD cable management!

#35 9 years ago
Quoted from BR80:

Thanks guys, probably not the best title to put this much work into...but worth it to me in the end.
The decal job was the easiest part with no paint to color match and nothing to line-up on the corners.

Any pin is worth a restore. They will all have to get restored one day, you just beat the next guy to it. I am about to do mine as well and I might have to steal the red bottom. It looks fantastic!

#36 9 years ago
Quoted from futurepinhead:

I might have to steal the red bottom. It looks fantastic!

Agreed, think it came out better than expected. I'd like to take the credit for the idea, but I remember seeing it on another restore...might have even been a Getaway, but can't find the thread or pics anymore to give a nod to the right person.

Here's the color used: Home Depot - Rustoleum Heritage Red (Satin)
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Stops-Rust-12-oz-Protective-Enamel-Heritage-Red-Satin-Spray-Paint-6-Pack-7760830/203160915

#37 9 years ago

Man, you're really making me feel lazy and sloppy leaving my Elvira cab so beat up now! Looks awesome.

#38 9 years ago

Awesome job!!! Truly inspiring! How many hours went into this?

#39 9 years ago

Awsome work, really came up 5 star!!! thanx for sharing...

#40 9 years ago

Awesome!

#42 9 years ago
Quoted from Stones:

Awesome job!!! Truly inspiring! How many hours went into this?

Thanks again everyone, it was a ton of work and lost count of the hours. Although, a lot of it was spent just staring at things, lol. It could have been done in a month, but took me a few weeks longer with the buffing of parts and cable sleeveing. I've got a few more things to complete, like the rear of the backbox (hopefully within the next month) and might get the playfield cc'd (within the next year). For now, it's got a playfield protector on it...which is a good upgrade from nothing, but would prefer a clearcoat.

#43 9 years ago

Hey if those leg protectors are directly on the cabinet I'd get those off ASAP. They don't do well when direct to decaled cabs. Best option is to use the stern spacers by themselves, but if there are now "marks" from the pincabs, you can put the stern spacers on and the pincabs over them to hide and damage/marks while at the same time spacing the pincabs off the decals so no further issues can occur.

#44 9 years ago

Great work. I like the red at the bottom of cab also. Nice touch. game looks incredible.

#45 9 years ago
Quoted from BR80:

Thanks again everyone, it was a ton of work and lost count of the hours. Although, a lot of it was spent just staring at things, lol. It could have been done in a month, but took me a few weeks longer with the buffing of parts and cable sleeveing. I've got a few more things to complete, like the rear of the backbox (hopefully within the next month) and might get the playfield cc'd (within the next year). For now, it's got a playfield protector on it...which is a good upgrade from nothing, but would prefer a clearcoat.

Well...very impressive work! Good luck with the remaining check list. Looks like you will cherish this thing for a long time!

#46 9 years ago

The color red seems to sun /UV fade away quickly and a faded HS2 is not a thing of beauty until you restore one.
I was fortunate to obtain an original owner / unmolested HS2 that was faded but everything else was there and pretty decent. I have yet to pull it apart and clearcoat the PF but did screen printed cab decals on the head and cab.
Mine still had the goodie bag / envelope inside.

Before ~

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After~

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#47 9 years ago

hi cal50, what sub and crossover did you use? thanks joe

#48 9 years ago

Goldwood GW-8024 8" Butyl Surround Woofer 4 Ohm
Part # 290-356 / $24.81

Speaker L-Pad Attenuator 50W Mono 3/8" Shaft 8 Ohm
Part # 260-252 / $10.25

100 Hz Low Pass 4 Ohm Crossover
Part # 266-444 / $19.46

Pyle PL42BL Blue Label 4" Coaxial Speaker Pair
Part # 267-078 / $14.45

All from Parts express

#49 9 years ago

thank you cal50. joe

#50 9 years ago
Quoted from cal50:

Goldwood GW-8024 8" Butyl Surround Woofer 4 Ohm
Part # 290-356 / $24.81
Speaker L-Pad Attenuator 50W Mono 3/8" Shaft 8 Ohm
Part # 260-252 / $10.25
100 Hz Low Pass 4 Ohm Crossover
Part # 266-444 / $19.46
Pyle PL42BL Blue Label 4" Coaxial Speaker Pair
Part # 267-078 / $14.45
All from Parts express

Yea, nice set-up and great pricing...upgrading these were on my to do list also.
Any special wiring issues to consider? Also, where'd you mount the L-Pad attenuator?

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