(UPDATED: 2013-12-14)

Hi Guys. So, I had to remove the supercharger on my Getaway HS2 to replace the diverter coil, and I figured that I'd post a little tutorial on how it's done.

Although removing the supercharger isn't that hard, before you remove individual pieces, take pictures to show alignments and things like that just in case you run into trouble.

Before you start, unplug the two connectors below the playfield that power all of the supercharger switches, lights, etc. The two connectors are at the end of this cable bundle under the playfield.
2013-12-07 16.22.54.jpg
2013-12-14 17.46.06.jpg
2013-12-14 17.48.29.jpg

First, you'll need to remove the left habitrail, but before you do, you can remove the switch by pulling off the plastic cover. Just lift a little on the metal tab and pull the plastic cap off. Then you'll see what I have in the picture. If you remove the two screws, the switch will come out. Just watch out for the little metal plate on the bottom where the screws go into; that will fall free once the screws are out.
2013-12-07 16.02.44.jpg

Clip any zip ties that will get in the way. It's easy to do this now so you don't get stuck while pulling up the supercharger. I only had to cut the one holding the habitrail switch shown here.
2013-12-07 16.04.33.jpg

Next remove the left habitrail by removeing the nut on the left slingshot and the screw shown here.
2013-12-07 16.06.33.jpg
2013-12-07 16.06.45.jpg

You can then pull the habitrail out of the supercharger "U" loop. It just slides out.
2013-12-07 16.08.57.jpg

Next unplug the connector shown here. It will allow you to remove the sliver plastic with the 3 red flashers in the next step.
2013-12-07 16.14.39.jpg

Next, you'll need to remove the "U" plastic and the "Mountain" plastic. To remove the "U" plastic, remove the two screws near the sliver plastic and the larger screw closer to the front of the playfield. To remove the "Mountain" plastic, remove the four screws shown. The sliver plastic will also come out.
2013-12-07 16.14.09.jpg
2013-12-07 16.14.20.jpg

Once removed, it will look like this. (Note: In the pictures, I've placed the screws back where they go for safe keeping.)
2013-12-07 16.22.44.jpg
2013-12-07 16.22.23.jpg
2013-12-07 16.22.35.jpg

Next, you'll want to remove anything holding the wiring harness to the playfield. For me, it was just this screw.
2013-12-07 16.23.04.jpg

Finally, you can remove the screws and nut holding in the supercharger. There are two screws at the back of the "U" loop. There are two more screws near where the "Mountain" plastic was. There is another screw that is also holding this lounge chair looking metal piece. Then, there two small screws in the spring steel at the ramp entrance. And, then there is one nut that needs to be removed.
2013-12-07 16.22.54.jpg
2013-12-07 16.23.11.jpg
2013-12-07 16.23.33.jpg
2013-12-07 16.23.48.jpg
2013-12-07 16.23.41.jpg

Once all those screws and the nut is removed, you can lift off the supercharger. This is what it looks like when removed.
2013-12-07 16.36.26.jpg

Here is the bottom of the super charger and some pictures of the diverter coil that I had to replace and its associated parts.
2013-12-07 16.40.25.jpg
2013-12-07 16.40.39.jpg
2013-12-07 16.42.46.jpg
2013-12-07 16.42.54.jpg
2013-12-07 16.43.04.jpg
2013-12-07 16.44.16.jpg

Here's a picture of the new coil in place.
UPDATE & WARNING: This new coil ended up rotating due to vibration and shorted 75VDC to the entire supercharger. This ended up shorting to the switch matrix and taking out my U20 chip on the CPU board. I added a fix to prevent rotation of the coil to help eliminate this problem. See my posts in this thread below.
2013-12-07 17.35.53.jpg

To put the supercharger back, just follow the directions in reverse.

Let me know if you guys like the tutorial.

I just wanted to update this thread with a warning about the the diverter coil. It ended up rotating from vibration and shorting the 75VDC solenoid power to the entire supercharger. This ended up shorting to my switch matrix and taking out U20 on the CPU board. I've come up with a fix that I'll explain below.

The first thing that I did was put some tape on the coil terminals to provide some insulation.
2013-12-14 19.34.54.jpg
2013-12-14 19.35.32.jpg

The next thing that I did was to add some little sticky feet to the bottom of the supercharger. They were the exact height so that they touch the white plastic of the coil. This prevents the coil from rotating, and they are rubbery, so they also provide some cushion from vibration. I also decided to turn the coil to the side to prevent the coil terminals from touching a ball that might be passing under the supercharger.
2013-12-14 19.35.44.jpg
2013-12-14 19.43.13.jpg
2013-12-14 19.43.34.jpg
2013-12-14 19.43.43.jpg
2013-12-14 19.43.59.jpg

The sticky feet are 3M Bumpon P/N SJ-5012 (DigiKey P/N: SJ5012-0-ND).
The sticky feet are kind of a hack, but after thinking about it for a while, that's the best I could come up with.
I guess in the end it was a pretty simple and clean fix. What do you guys think? Is this a good fix?

I'll have to try it the other way around next time I remove the supercharger. But, I'm having a hard time picturing how it will be prevented from rotating. What would stop it from turning?

So, I had to remove the supercharger (for unrelated reasons) and I tried reversing the coil just to see how it would work out. It looks like the coil would still rotate.

Looking at it some more, it looks like the way there is a notch cut in the bracket that maybe the original coils had a plastic post sticking out that would fit in there. Kind of like some flipper coils I've seen.

But, if that's true, then the lugs would go on the stop side.

With that said, I decided to leave it the same way I have it shown in the pictures as it doesn't rotate with the rubber feet that I've added and it's been working great since I've replaced the coil.

It's been awhile, but I believe one of the windings broke inside the coil. In this case I couldn't just unwrap some wire and re-solder it to the lug. I was forced to replace the coil. I believe it was the holding (low power) winding that opened up.

You're welcome. I was actually thinking of doubling up the spring on my diverter as I'd like it to swing back faster, but haven't gotten around to it.