(Topic ID: 72893)

HS2 Supercharger Removal Tutorial


By steve1515

6 years ago



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  • 29 posts
  • 16 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 69 days ago by jaybeedee
  • Topic is favorited by 41 Pinsiders

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12
#1 6 years ago

(UPDATED: 2013-12-14)

Hi Guys. So, I had to remove the supercharger on my Getaway HS2 to replace the diverter coil, and I figured that I'd post a little tutorial on how it's done.

Although removing the supercharger isn't that hard, before you remove individual pieces, take pictures to show alignments and things like that just in case you run into trouble.

Before you start, unplug the two connectors below the playfield that power all of the supercharger switches, lights, etc. The two connectors are at the end of this cable bundle under the playfield.
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First, you'll need to remove the left habitrail, but before you do, you can remove the switch by pulling off the plastic cover. Just lift a little on the metal tab and pull the plastic cap off. Then you'll see what I have in the picture. If you remove the two screws, the switch will come out. Just watch out for the little metal plate on the bottom where the screws go into; that will fall free once the screws are out.
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Clip any zip ties that will get in the way. It's easy to do this now so you don't get stuck while pulling up the supercharger. I only had to cut the one holding the habitrail switch shown here.
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Next remove the left habitrail by removeing the nut on the left slingshot and the screw shown here.
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You can then pull the habitrail out of the supercharger "U" loop. It just slides out.
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Next unplug the connector shown here. It will allow you to remove the sliver plastic with the 3 red flashers in the next step.
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Next, you'll need to remove the "U" plastic and the "Mountain" plastic. To remove the "U" plastic, remove the two screws near the sliver plastic and the larger screw closer to the front of the playfield. To remove the "Mountain" plastic, remove the four screws shown. The sliver plastic will also come out.
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Once removed, it will look like this. (Note: In the pictures, I've placed the screws back where they go for safe keeping.)
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Next, you'll want to remove anything holding the wiring harness to the playfield. For me, it was just this screw.
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Finally, you can remove the screws and nut holding in the supercharger. There are two screws at the back of the "U" loop. There are two more screws near where the "Mountain" plastic was. There is another screw that is also holding this lounge chair looking metal piece. Then, there two small screws in the spring steel at the ramp entrance. And, then there is one nut that needs to be removed.
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Once all those screws and the nut is removed, you can lift off the supercharger. This is what it looks like when removed.
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Here is the bottom of the super charger and some pictures of the diverter coil that I had to replace and its associated parts.
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Here's a picture of the new coil in place.
UPDATE & WARNING: This new coil ended up rotating due to vibration and shorted 75VDC to the entire supercharger. This ended up shorting to the switch matrix and taking out my U20 chip on the CPU board. I added a fix to prevent rotation of the coil to help eliminate this problem. See my posts in this thread below.
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To put the supercharger back, just follow the directions in reverse.

Let me know if you guys like the tutorial.

#2 6 years ago

Being a HS2 fan I must say thanks!

#3 6 years ago

I've done this. What a cool design!

#4 6 years ago

Fantastic write-up! You mentioned everything I know plus a few things I didn't (simple switch removal). And great photos! Great contribution!

#5 6 years ago
Quoted from waldo34:

Being a HS2 fan I must say thanks!

+1. Thanks!

#6 6 years ago

Bookmarked for future reference, thanks!

1 week later
#7 6 years ago

I just wanted to update this thread with a warning about the the diverter coil. It ended up rotating from vibration and shorting the 75VDC solenoid power to the entire supercharger. This ended up shorting to my switch matrix and taking out U20 on the CPU board. I've come up with a fix that I'll explain below.

The first thing that I did was put some tape on the coil terminals to provide some insulation.
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The next thing that I did was to add some little sticky feet to the bottom of the supercharger. They were the exact height so that they touch the white plastic of the coil. This prevents the coil from rotating, and they are rubbery, so they also provide some cushion from vibration. I also decided to turn the coil to the side to prevent the coil terminals from touching a ball that might be passing under the supercharger.
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The sticky feet are 3M Bumpon P/N SJ-5012 (DigiKey P/N: SJ5012-0-ND).
The sticky feet are kind of a hack, but after thinking about it for a while, that's the best I could come up with.
I guess in the end it was a pretty simple and clean fix. What do you guys think? Is this a good fix?

#8 6 years ago

Thanks for posting this.

2 months later
#9 6 years ago

Nice write up steve, appreciate it. But I will say, I have always read that coil lugs put against the coil stops are a big no-no.
My guess, that is why you were shorting out. (the coil is installed backwards).
Nonetheless, good pics.

1 month later
#10 6 years ago

Agree, the Coil lug end should be on the opposite end of the plunger, nearest the diverter. Coil will not rotate in this position.

#11 6 years ago

I'll have to try it the other way around next time I remove the supercharger. But, I'm having a hard time picturing how it will be prevented from rotating. What would stop it from turning?

3 weeks later
#12 6 years ago

So, I had to remove the supercharger (for unrelated reasons) and I tried reversing the coil just to see how it would work out. It looks like the coil would still rotate.

Looking at it some more, it looks like the way there is a notch cut in the bracket that maybe the original coils had a plastic post sticking out that would fit in there. Kind of like some flipper coils I've seen.

But, if that's true, then the lugs would go on the stop side.

With that said, I decided to leave it the same way I have it shown in the pictures as it doesn't rotate with the rubber feet that I've added and it's been working great since I've replaced the coil.

1 year later
#13 4 years ago

I know this is an old thread but curious why you replaced the coil? It's unusual for those to go bad unless there was some other electrical problem. Also, looks like a previous owner used hot glue to keep it from rotating in the bracket after the little nub broke off.

#14 4 years ago

Great job, thanks for helping out future fixes!

#15 4 years ago
Quoted from Jgaltr56:

I know this is an old thread but curious why you replaced the coil?

It's been awhile, but I believe one of the windings broke inside the coil. In this case I couldn't just unwrap some wire and re-solder it to the lug. I was forced to replace the coil. I believe it was the holding (low power) winding that opened up.

#16 4 years ago
Quoted from steve1515:

It's been awhile, but I believe one of the windings broke inside the coil. In this case I couldn't just unwrap some wire and re-solder it to the lug. I was forced to replace the coil. I believe it was the holding (low power) winding that opened up.

Good to know. Thanks

#17 4 years ago

I'm starting to put my Getaway back together.

I noticed in this post that the wiring harness for the supercharger ramp is routed above/behind the PF backboard. Is this correct.

My wiring harness was routed into the corner PF thru hole.

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#18 4 years ago

Mine is routed thru the corner PF hole.

#19 4 years ago

Thanks Chet.

Though it's a PITA to get both big connector thru that hole...I thought my set-up was right.

Thanks for the help.

#20 4 years ago

feed one thru at a time, not both at same time. There is enough slack in the harness to do this. just gently wiggle side to side as you pull up from top and push from bottom at same time. they will come thru just fine.

#21 4 years ago

Thanks Chet...I remember them being a bear to get out...one at a time.

2 weeks later
#22 4 years ago

I thought I remembered seeing a thread about this recently!

Thanks for the write-up. I'm going to have to tackle this because my diverter doesn't snap back closed.

#23 4 years ago

Followed this and my diverter is now fixed. Was mucked up with old grease. Cleaned it off and all is well.

Taking this apart was a lot easier than I thought it'd be.

#24 4 years ago
Quoted from Geocab:

Thanks for the write-up. I'm going to have to tackle this because my diverter doesn't snap back closed.

You're welcome. I was actually thinking of doubling up the spring on my diverter as I'd like it to swing back faster, but haven't gotten around to it.

2 months later
#25 4 years ago

There is no parts detail for the diverter in the manual? Does anybody have the details so I can get the correct coil sleeve, spring, coil stop, armature, etc. Thank you.

#26 4 years ago

If I'm not mistaken...the page you're missing is 3-22

There are (2) page 2-22's in the manual.

Check IPDB and download the manual there. I think that was has page 3-22...showing the assembly.

#27 4 years ago

my mistake.....

the info you need is in the manual...page 2-31

the missing page in the manual is 2-23....The manual has page 2-33 in its' place instead.

I just looked it up....page 2-23 shows the slingshot assembly

1 year later
#28 3 years ago

Thanks Steve for the write up. Saving this. Will likely need to rebuild mine.

3 years later
#29 69 days ago

Thanks for the write-up. I've used this a couple of times, but one thing which will make it easier is not to do this!

Quoted from steve1515:

(UPDATED: 2013-12-14)
First, you'll need to remove the left habitrail, but before you do, you can remove the switch by pulling off the plastic cover. Just lift a little on the metal tab and pull the plastic cap off. Then you'll see what I have in the picture. If you remove the two screws, the switch will come out. Just watch out for the little metal plate on the bottom where the screws go into; that will fall free once the screws are out.
[quoted image]

The screws/bottom plate are a pain to deal with when it comes to reassembly. If you look under the field you will see a connector, which you can unplug and it will fit through the playfield - you will be able to remove the rail easily and more importantly put it back with less drama.

The other thing I would do differently is take the u shaped plastic, supercharger cover and mountain off first/replace last - gives a bit more room for dealing with things.

But thanks to the OP for an excellent post - it gave me the confidence to take it on.

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