Hopefully you didn't short something to the switch matrix and hurt your CPU.

LTG : )™

Start by pulling the fuses and checking them with a meter. I'm working on a HS2 at the same time as well.

Try your CPU in a different game. If the problem follows you know it's on the cpu.

And after repair, be sure you don't still have a short in the HS2.

LTG : )™

I just picked up a getaway about a month ago and have the manual and schematics. You can borrow them if you want. PM me if you're interested.

I had the same issues when I did a getaway but everything still worked soim not sure what was going on

Edit: if you can get into it, in switch test, which one's are not registering? My Getaway had a whole column out when I bought it. This included the shifter switches, slings, some of the red/yellow/green targets and, I think, one of the pops. I had to replace the U20 chip on the CPU. But, before doing so, I looked at that entire daisy chain of wire and all the associated switches/mechs for broken wires or metal against metal that could have caused a short.

Nothing was and the game was like this when I bought it so I don't know what could have caused it but replacing (and socketing) a new chip at U20 solved the problem. My guess was something shorted it out. This chip is a common weak point on a WPC switch matrix.

Also, with the game off pull one end of each fuse and check for continuity. You can't always tell just by visual inspection. While you're at it, check to make sure each fuse is the correct amperage.

Also, check to make sure the connectors are plugged in correctly. When you get the manual it will have this info, but, I can post some pics today of my CPU and driver board if you want.

I have to ask because this to me is the obvious one that no one seems to have covered, where you swapping the bulbs and LED's in and out the game with the game powered on at any stage? This would likely cause a short/fuse to blow.

From what it sounds, I think he did.

http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/1000/Williams_1992_The_Getaway_High_Speed_II_WPC_Schematics_Revised_May_17_1993_.pdf

Ok. This is what your switch matrix should look like normally. The lone closed one towards the left is the "always closed" switch. The three at the bottom are your three balls sitting in the trough. The ones on the right are the supercharger optos that show "closed" until the ball "breaks" their beam of light.

Also, here's a photo of the lamp and switch matrix from the manual.

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What you need to do is, while in switch edge test, manually close switches througout the game. Start with the shifter. It has two switches. One for "shift up" and one for "shift down". Move the shifter. Does it show the switches closing on the display while in test?

Here's some pics of my boards with connectors that can be, sometimes, mixed up. Also, check to see if you're, maybe, one pin off when you reseated a connector. It can happen.

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Ok. Yours is showing the "down ramp" as closed. Everything else is normal. Lift that playfield into its up position. Look at the ramp mech all the way in the back of the playfield underside. IIRC, the large coil brings the ramp down and the small (relay type) releases it into its up position. With the game off, manually actuate these coils to see if the ramp is going up and down freely.

Also, did you check the other switches while in switch edge test? Is everything else "closing" when you manually close them...with your fingers? Keep them metal tools away while the game's on.

Alot of times that ramp gets stuck because the arm that it pivots on gets bent probably just needs re adjusted one way or another

Do any of the connectors look burnt? I burnt one of mine and blew a fuse playing with a light strip in mine.

Or, somebody sprayed white grease all over it and it seizes up.

Let's forget about switch errors for second. Getaway is a bit of a prick about registering switch errors if a particular switch hasn't been activated in a while.

Regarding the coil test. Do ANY of the other coils fire during the test? Also, can you start a game? If so, tell me what doesn't work during the game.

Did you refer to my photos of the connectors? Especially the ones on the bottom of the MPU board. Are yours in the same spots?

Hes is never on here but I thought u said it worked before u put leds in? Sounds like something may have shorted in the switch matrix when you put new lights in it or something worked its way loose in the back box which is highly possible considering its journey ?when your in switch test mode check every switch to see what works or not ,maybe it will point us to a problem area on the pin?is the cpu have any corrosion damage that you can see? Also I played this pin not long ago and I think the only thing wrong then was a bad bulb in the topper which was fixed im sure.

When in switch test have glass off and every switch or target just activate it and you will here a beep and it says it on the dmd if it worked. I never saw the policeforce I figured it needed something tho ,hes selling a ton of his collection im going by soon to check his storage trailers out

Grab your switch matrix chart. When you put the game into switch edge check manually trigger each switch and make sure that it registers on the DMD the switch that it actually should be registering. On my getaway I had a shorted right trough switch. It made the shifter read as ball lock one and the game continuously auto fired the ball. Manually check each switch and begin to isolate the area of a short. If you accidentally bent a diode and grounded it out the switches won't register correctly.

Lol. You beat me to it.

I am working on repairing my CPU board from my Getaway. As soon as I do, if you need one for testing I could send you mine. I currently have a new rottendog board in mine so it's not as if it is down. You would have to move your ASIC chip over though.

This may have been covered, but I received this error on my old HS2 and it was because the ramp should be in the up position at startup, which it was, but the switch that tells the machine the ramp is down had gone out. I would start by looking at the wires around the switch and testing the switch that is triggered by the coil when the ramp lowers.

Get in to switch test and activate every switch and let us know what works and what dont please

Sure have it really looks to be damage to the cpu and switch matrix as I had a few cpus that did the same thing before I hope that's not the case but will see thats y I wanna see what switchs are working may be able to pinpoint a problem area with that info

Also get a pic of the cpu with the speaker panel down

The display makes a buzzing sound and that's normal.