Sounds like the beacon motor is cooked. I got one fairly cheaply for my Getaway, when I owned one, and it wasn't terribly expensive either. Only problem is that I can't remember where I bought it from... I'm sure it was from one of the usual online sources though.

But the light should go on right? If the motor is not working it would only not spin. I get no beacon spin and no light. And no power from the connector that connects to beacon and light.

You're Not getting 12V from The Beacon Supply Board ? , Check All the Fuses on the PDB and Reseat yr connectors on the 2 for the Beacon ..,, you might have a Bad Board
( 1 of the 2 )

I have my Blue Led Police Flasher Kit connected to the Beacon Power ,, 12V .. I've never had a HS2 w/ Bad Beacon boards .. They handle Alot ..

HS2_Flasher_install_002.JPG

If a Beacon motor is Fried , Yr Light Should still work .. Both get Power from the Same Plug ,, Get yr Meter out and Check for 12V

My bad. I must have glanced over your original post and missed the part about the light not working either.

Listen to B_R though. He's the man.

HS2 is my Baby bro ,, Well BSD is # 1

Hey, I got the same problem, but I haven't checked it out yet. I just wanted to post this, so I can find it easier when I get a chance to look at to see what ya did. Thx and Good Luck!

UnPlug the 2 wire connector at the Beacon motor , Put the Pin in Test , Beacon Test -- use a Multi-meter and see if you have Power coming from the Plug to Start ..

Been lOOk-n at Metallica video's .. Ok , ,, Dam .. The 2 small boards that feed Power to the Beacon ,, See if yr getting any Power from Any of the connection's ( molex's ) probe in there .. If Not ,, Trace down the wires from the 2nd board and see where they go to the Power driver board ..

an Example:
On my JackBot , the coil that is used to drop the ramp was DOA because 2 diodes were blown on the PDB ,, plus the coil was fried .. All is Fixed now ..

My beacon light don't work. I did the VOM meter and no power. I traced the wires to the board while looking at the schematics in the manual. Someone moved the wires to different locations. I thinking of sending the board out to get repaired. Does anyone here recommend a good board repair place? or should I buy a Rottendog?

I have kind of the opposite problem, have 16V all the way through with multi-meter, even at the plug for the beacon, but neither the beacon or light work, checked the bulb, seems to be fine, not blown, checked the resistance at the beacon plug, there is some so connections are being made in either the motor or light, puzzled......

The beacon motor / Mars lamp is solenoid # 27. If you run the solenoid test you should hear the motor click or try to turn when energized.

Correct bulb for the mars light is # 1156 / 12V

Test values on the triac board - Not sure if the door interlock needs to be closed to energize.......

J1-1 = 24 VDC
J1-4 = GROUND

J2-1= 48 VAC
J2-5= 48 VAC

J3-1=48 VAC
J3-4=48 VAC

It could be that the Triac board isn't getting any juice because of poor connections on the connector from the driver board. IDC connectors get quite flakey over time and aren't completely reliable.

Put your beacon in test mode and gently wiggle the wires on the connector that plugs into the Triac from the driver board. You may very well see the thing light up when you make a good connection.

And if it IS a case of a bad connection, I would replace that IDC connector with a Molex connector and Trifurcon pins.

From www.ipdb.org:

If checking for voltage to "Mars Lamp" Red rotating light, the manual states 48VAC but the correct voltage is 20VAC.

Right from the manual.....

Follow the voltage coming in, passing thru the Triac board to the smaller board with the cement resistors to the beacon and light.

hs2wiring.jpg hs2.jpg

16.4 volts coming out of J104 all the way to the plug at the beacon motor and light.

If just the 1156 lamp is blown wouldn't the motor still spin? Found something like this problem on RGP but no answer

Yep.

Replaced the 1156 bulb. Still no go.

ok, just going to run through it all, LED 5 is good, 20vdc on, 17v measured at J104, 17v measured all the way to the plug of the MARS lamp, problem is that it always measures this, even when not being tested, its like the voltage is always there, checked F111, good, checked R224, measure 7 ohms, (says 12 on it), don't know what else to look for

Just for kicks, try tapping the motor while it should be running in test mode. My old motor was kinda touchy. I ended up replacing it but it would work with some taps with a screwdriver or similar.

I have smacked it a few times thinking the bulb housing might have been touching and grounding it all out. Took the motor and bulb housing out and verified no accidental touching.

Transistor Q22 ( TIP 102) controls the beacon.

Take an alligator test clip and touch the metal tab on Q22 to ground ( ground braid in cabinet) and see if the motor clicks or tries to turn. I cant remember if it matters on this but I would close the door interlock switch while testing. Its for the high power solenoids but I am not sure if it applies for the beacon.