If you remove wire wraps it will make the coil stronger. Not what you want.
Which coil is in there now? You could go with a weaker one with a larger guage or more windings. So if it has a 23-800 coil you could try a 23-840 (about 10% weaker).

First check if the sleeve is worn or a bracket is loose, or the tip broken, especially if this just started.

You would wind more wire on the coil to make it weaker.

Couldn't you just put a pot in series with the coil a dial it in until it was how you liked it?

Weaker coil is the way to go. A pot will add resistance and heat. Over kill for what is needed here.

LTG : )

I would say you should look at the mechanics not the coil. Many wcs work fine with stock coil so your issue is not the coil but the mech. Sleeve, brackets, how it lines up, etc

There are a few ways to weaken a coil:
1) a bit of padding on the coil stop to give less throw
2) a resistor on the power lug. I wrote about this to weaken stern slings and used 25 watt 4 ohm resistors for those
3) swap with a weaker coil.

+1 on the cement resistor.

If you checked all what Vid said , and you decide to go modding...

As usual.... it is not only important WHAT you do, sometimes it important and HOW to do - it

My choice will be:

1) swap with a weaker coil

2) or..... swap with a weaker coil ? )

3) adding resistor ( but...see my first line
BTW I have 5 Ohm 25W wirewound pot to determine value
(when I decide to add a resistor)

Greetings from Croatia

If it is not working right with the correct stock coil - then something else is your problem. Modifying the design by changing to a weaker coil is a band aid, IMHO

yup to the resistor "bandaid" too.. which isnt a bad idea really either but its probably a real good idea to at least look at what kind of voltage is being fed there. in my much simpler sentinel "demolition derby" I'd installed a right flipper mechanism (stock theyre mechanically linked to the same flipper solenoid, ewww!) and put in a very comparable coil, same line feeding it but it hit MUCH harder than the left, so in with a 20w 3 ohm resistor was just about right.
noticed it even more in another sentinel I'd repaired with fatter bridge rectifier and power transistor to the pf channel, not more voltage but it hit harder having more current being fed out. maybe another possible idk, are both coils being powered up instead of primary-secondary power swapping with the EOS switch? something like that might make one flipper "all powerful", maybe get a look to that same time.

This is the only other thing I can think of: Have you thought about changing the coil return spring? A newer/stiffer spring will put more resistance in the coil plunger stroke, making it a little weaker.

I would take the plunger out of the coil, and place a rubber ring (5/16") on the plunger (near the end), so the plunger has less stroke.

I wouldn't do any electrical modifications for this.

Modification on mechanic is....better ?

To be clear...I'm against ANY modifications with "no reason", BUT if something "smashing"...
there is NO reason (for me) to swap with a weaker coil.

For electrical modifications...

I really like this idea. On my Fathom, when the ball eject saucer in the back kicks out the ball, it usually bounces off a post and right back into the saucer, which ends your multiball and really stinks. I took the rubber off the post it bounces off of, but I like your idea better!

The plunger riding higher in the coil will get a stronger whack.

Too strong already seems to be his issue.

LTG : )™

I don't think you are going to see much heat put into the resistor because the power coil on the flipper is only on briefly until the hold coil engages. When the hold coil engages, the current draw drops off to around 0.5 A. I would suspect that the people who have used resistors, that if they put their thumb on the resistor after a game it never gets that warm. I even suspect you could get away with not even using a cement resistor, especially if you don't have any kids who like banging on the buttons like a madman.

Curious if there are any other WCS owners with this problem...WCS owners - chime in, please.

No issues here.

I have a WCS and have never had this issue either.
Looking at your Video, it looks like the ball is leaving the rails right at that first turn. At least that's what it looked like to me.

At the top first curve, are the two side by side rails parallel and even? By even I mean not tilted one way or the other.
I'm thinking the rail is uneven and the ball is dropping off of it.
Can you post a better video? Maybe focus in on that top Curve and see if that is where the Ball always goes off the rails.

Whats the outlet voltage. and is the transformer on the right power tap?

flash
How long have you had this Pin? Did it ever work properly, the ball staying on the rail?

I don't want to question the masters, but that just doesn't make sense to me. I think the opposite is true.

If you took an extreme example and rigged up an extra fat coil stop to reduce the stroke to be just a quarter inch or so, you'd get a pathetic little bump, right?

I think he means placing the ring here
a-11336.jpg

This way the stroke of the plunger is shortened to compensate for the strong coil.

Ah yes, that sounds legit in my book. I didn't realize we were talking about a VUK.

Well, I just used this pic as an example because it popped up first on a search. I'm not too familliar with WCS, but from the video, it looks like a VUK

The jumping martians in AFM are a good example.

There is a rubber grommet sitting where the plunger rests, like a coil stop. When it is there the martians bounce up and down quite nicely. If it is gone, they barely move.

LTG : )™

After looking at that video, I would strongly suggest checking the resistance across that coil. I'm assuming you've checked in the manual to make sure it is the correct coil (going by the coil wrapper part number), but you haven't mentioned that yet. Coil wrappers can be wrong. You need to put a meter on the coil (with the power off) and check it. Compare your reading to the factory coils specs. Google pinball coil resistance chart, if needed. Just because it's esthetically good doesn't mean it's the right coil.

This is a Stern Coil Chart but the resistances should be close to the same across manufacturers for the same size coil.
coil resistance chart.gif

Is it hacked to shit near the coil? What are the numbers/ letters on the coil ?
Can you do a better video focusing more on the area where the ball comes out to
the first curve?

According to the manual, it shouldn't be 4.2 (or 4.1). I'd suggest you download a manual and make sure you have the correct coil installed.

http://ipdb.org/

OK, the coil is an AE-23-800. I measured 3 Ohms.
The coil stop is small, brown and rubbery.
Not sure of the correct terminology but there is a round "weight" at the end of the shaft.
I figure this adds weight to the shaft. So when the coil is energized, the coil shaft should not move as fast.
Not sure if this is how it works, just throwing it out there.
So let us know if the coil is identical to the pics I posted

100_3157.JPG

100_3158.JPG

100_3161.JPG

If you want to repair games, you need to know how to read a manual. Open it up and have a look. I could give you the page number, but what would you learn from that? I might as well come over and fix it for you.

Here's a hint: The coil is called the Goal Popper coil.

Don't need schematics yet. If you can find the solenoid/flasher table, you can find the part number of the coil. Once you find this, compare the part number on the coil to what the manual says. If correct, then compare the resistance you measured to what it should be reading. To find the correct factory resistance, google pinball coil resistance chart (like I mentioned above). Then look for the part number listed in the manual and note the specified resistance.

I'm not familiar with that assembly, but if there's only one bracket with play, it should be tight. How does your assembly look compared to the pics above? Is the rubber bumper missing at the bottom? That would likely cause what you are seeing.

rubber grommet pn is 23-6340.
You may be able to go to home depot, lowes, Ace, a hardware store, and find a grommet that will fit.
HD and Lowes usually have grommets in big pull out drawers, basically containing specialty parts.
You could also temporarily mickey Mouse it by using a rubber washer or something for now.
Let us know how you make out.
Hopefully, this will fix your ball coming off the rails issue.
If you have other issues with your WCS, let me know and if I can help I will.

That is what I meant.
I have done this on Whitewater (lost mine vuk) and it works great.

Flash
Did you ever fix this?