(Topic ID: 281127)

How to use Bally's lift up glass?

By Ramakers

3 years ago


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  • 24 posts
  • 14 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Ballypin
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 3 years ago

After years of repairing EM pinball machines I finally want to know how to use the Bally the lift up glass. Until now I always take of the glass while I'm doing repairs but I like be able to use this feature. I have often tried to set up the two support on my own, but I never managed to do this in an elegant way.
Is there anybody out there who can explain or show how to do this?

I'dd love to show my 4mbc this wayI'dd love to show my 4mbc this way

#2 3 years ago

What you're doing is how it was designed. I'm not understanding the problem here.

Lift up the glass and put up one prop rod. Then put up the other. Done.

#3 3 years ago

When lifting up the 2nd prop rod, as soon as you lift it out of the channel, move it outward away from the glass frame assembly. Lift then come in to the frame's receiver from above.

Or, like most of us, just use one rod if you are lifting the playfield up for service.

#4 3 years ago

I have that on my Monte Carlo. It's convenient for quick fixes and short work. Not sure I would use it like that for a more extended project such as you have with the relay board out. At least for me, the robustness of the stability of the thing with just those prop rods for support is a bit iffy.

#5 3 years ago
Quoted from EMsInKC:

What you're doing is how it was designed. I'm not understanding the problem here.
Lift up the glass and put up one prop rod. Then put up the other. Done.

the picture in my post is not mine, I found this on the forum.

Quoted from MrBally:

When lifting up the 2nd prop rod, as soon as you lift it out of the channel, move it outward away from the glass frame assembly. Lift then come in to the frame's receiver from above.
Or, like most of us, just use one rod if you are lifting the playfield up for service.

I don't trust it with 1 support, but your tip for taking the 2nd rod outward and put it in from above does the trick.
The left rod is a bit shorter than the right one on my 4mbc, is this always this way?

#6 3 years ago

you could just pull the glass off while it's still in it's frame and it would be totally out of the way.

John

#7 3 years ago

The best thing to do is to grow a third arm. Comes in handy when soldering as well!

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#8 3 years ago

I'm right handed , so I start on the right side pushing up and holding the glass with my right thumb while cradling the rod with my last 2 digits. I lock that rod in place to give my thumb a rest and to start lifting the left rod. I push up again with my right and lock both rods in place.

I noticed after putting together a Fireball if the head is bolted to far forward the glass will hit the back-box making it much more difficult if not impossible. Another note on the Fireball is the "lift out mounting board" feature doesn't exist.

Keep the big bolts and washers and always replace them at-least finger tight.

I'm not sure about a solution for one rod being shorter than the other.

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#9 3 years ago
Quoted from jrpinball:

The best thing to do is to grow a third arm. Comes in handy when soldering as well![quoted image]

Yeah but that dude was from Mars.

#10 3 years ago

Do you know how many times I've wished I was him while soldering?

#11 3 years ago
Quoted from chas10e:Another note on the Fireball is the "lift out mounting board" feature doesn't exist.
Keep the big bolts and washers and always replace them at-least finger tight.
I'm not sure about a solution for one rod being shorter than the other.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I now can easily put up the glass. Those tips really helped a lot.
On my #4MBC there is also no way of getting the mounting board out easily. The power line and switch don't allow lifting. But this another topic.
I'm planning to make this feature in my Camelot. This game is coming back from the junkyard better than ever. Also another topic.

I found the difference in length to come in handy. If I start with the long one on the right you can bring in the short one on the left from above with ease. I have to pull down the glass to lock this in the slot. This way the support is very secure.

#12 3 years ago

I used one prop rod many times. Never had an issue.

This sounds like a solution in search of a problem

#13 3 years ago
Quoted from Ramakers:

I now can easily put up the glass. Those tips really helped a lot.
On my #4MBC there is also no way of getting the mounting board out easily. The power line and switch don't allow lifting. But this another topic.
I'm planning to make this feature in my Camelot. This game is coming back from the junkyard better than ever. Also another topic.
I found the difference in length to come in handy. If I start with the long one on the right you can bring in the short one on the left from above with ease. I have to pull down the glass to lock this in the slot. This way the support is very secure.

The rods are the same length...

#14 3 years ago
Quoted from EMsInKC:

The rods are the same length...

Then my pinball is made on a Monday.

The left seems to be 1/2" shorter?

RightRight
LeftLeft

#15 3 years ago
Quoted from Ramakers:

Then my pinball is made on a Monday.
The left seems to be 1/2" shorter?
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

The left one is usually a little bigger!

#16 3 years ago

I own two games with the lift up glass. Time Zone and Surfers. Can't get to Surfers right now but I measured Time Zone's rods. Same length.

#17 3 years ago

I never really understood this style of glass or why they make it slightly smaller than standard playfield glass grrrr.

My removal method was always complete removal and lay on some close by carpeting.

#18 3 years ago
Quoted from EJS:

I never really understood this style of glass or why they make it slightly smaller than standard playfield glass grrrr.
My removal method was always complete removal and lay on some close by carpeting.

The size issue is no mystery. The frame reduces the size.

Why they did it, who knows. It does make it easier to work on a game where there isn't a lot of space to slide the glass out.

#19 3 years ago

I have a Bally Rock Makers, but it’s missing the lift bars. Anyone know where I can get a pair?

#20 3 years ago
Quoted from Kickout:

I have a Bally Rock Makers, but it’s missing the lift bars. Anyone know where I can get a pair?

Mine, (well actually that's my Rocket III pre-restore in the first post!) were painted over so they were easy to miss.

1 year later
#21 1 year ago

I am reworking a Bally #on beam with this lift up glass assembly. Looking at the above picture I think I am missing some pieces. My machine has the lockdown lever behind the coin door but there are no tabs on the glass assembly to grab onto for locking. Should there be? Also, the rear of the assembly just pulls out, should there be some sort of hinge or pivot assembly to hold in in place?

#22 1 year ago
Quoted from shemp2000:

I am reworking a Bally #on beam with this lift up glass assembly. Looking at the above picture I think I am missing some pieces. My machine has the lockdown lever behind the coin door but there are no tabs on the glass assembly to grab onto for locking. Should there be? Also, the rear of the assembly just pulls out, should there be some sort of hinge or pivot assembly to hold in in place?

There are tabs on the bar, and the rear of the frame has no hinges. Just slides into place.

#23 1 year ago

And I'm so glad they got away from that design. The two metal rails to hold it up are a pain in arse.

And I cant shake that feeling of being in a guillotine when I have my head under that thing

#24 1 year ago
Quoted from Garrett:

And I cant shake that feeling of being in a guillotine when I have my head under that thing

That is why they are nicknamed "Chop Top".

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