How to repair/reinforce plastic ramps?

(Topic ID: 203800)

How to repair/reinforce plastic ramps?


By Wiggy

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 10 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by erak
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 1 year ago

The left ramp on my WCS (up by the diverter) got some cracks in it and some plastic has broken off the diverter hole itself.

-- What would be the best way to reinforce the plastic where the cracks are so it doesnt get any worse?
-- Is it possible to repair the hole with some kind of epoxy? How durable would that be?

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#2 1 year ago

Some strong tape.

#3 1 year ago

I'd choose 2-part epoxy putty. I repaired my Taxi spinout and my Pinbot vortex with it and it is stronger than the original plastic.

#4 1 year ago
Quoted from wayout440:

I'd choose 2-part epoxy putty. I repaired my Taxi spinout and my Pinbot vortex with it and it is stronger than the original plastic.

Never worked with epoxy when it comes to plastic. Do you need sand it afterwards to smooth the surface? Should one reinforce with fiberglass?

#5 1 year ago

I just picked up a stretchable clear vinyl patch.
Its a newer version, that sets clear and type with play in the material.
Its designed for patching inflatable tubes, and bouncy houses.
Reasonably thick, I believe it to be a good choice in ramp repair.

Ill be testing it soon, and see how it fares, but I believe its quick, easy, and does the
job without the glue mess, or brittleness, as all my glue repairs in the past
break over time.

Maybe you can find something like this by you.
Something like Clear Flex-seal Tape?

Anyone try a product like this?

#6 1 year ago

Just please don't use "Duct"tape. I have had to clean up more bad duct tape repairs then I care to mention...

#7 1 year ago
Quoted from Wiggy:

Never worked with epoxy when it comes to plastic. Do you need sand it afterwards to smooth the surface? Should one reinforce with fiberglass?

Yes, sanding smooth is recommended, unless you get lucky and the application is smooth. I used the marine fiberglass tape on the back side of the Taxi spinout to add strength. There were several tape repairs and a gaping hole in the back of the spinout, and now it's solid and durable.

#9 1 year ago

Short answer.

Dependent on location of the damage, industrial sheet metal steel trimmed to size and riveted with small washers (if required). This is after using a 2 part epoxy injected into cracks for sealing purposes (note: this is only effective on older ramps made of butyrate, as you need to use other solvents for PETG). This method works for non-edge areas as well, but I prefer a thin polycarbonate patch. Proper preparation is required, and part/ramp must be removed from the game.

Owners/operators have been making their personalized protectors for a very long time in periods before reproduction injection molded and vacuum formed ramps were available, including before Cliffys (which he started around 1995) or equivalent around 1985. If done correctly, the protector will look as though it was factory designed. It requires patience, cutting, and fitting. A critical step is testing chemical interaction for color changes.

#10 1 year ago

^+1 Yup! This is the right way if you want your pin to still look pretty much factory. And not all hacked up with epoxy or sheet metal. And also to not cloud up those nice clear ramps.

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