Should just pull the white part from the black part. It is usually a tight fit and take a grunt or two. If it is a newer switch, which this doesn't look like, it would be turn the white part to the right (I think) if you're facing the start button.

Some of them turn a bit, then pull out, some simply snap straight in.

The snap-in types take a bit of force, it does feel like it's going to break, but it's OK.

RM

Sometimes you have to snap it in really hard. Make sure the switch part inside the white part (it's actually two pieces) is snapped in fully too.

Yes, check that one didn't come loose. Those snap in ones act like they're in but need a bit more force. Is the button clicking when off when pressing the start? You may need to try with game off.

Here's a picture I found from my TAF that shows the wires going to where they should be.

DSCN1948 (resized).JPG

Can you carefully place that switch from shorting and testing it if it works when it's not in the start button housing?

I assume you put it back together with an LED in there? Sometimes that prevents the button from working properly. The LED is typically bigger than a standard bulb. Look to the side to see if the plunger is actually pushing in on the micro.

Pull the micro or just finger the switch while in switch test to see if the micro is ok.

Few more pics I dug up from my refresh.

IMG_6210 (resized).JPG

IMG_6433 (resized).JPG

Ah, yes @greenmachine19 sounds like he's onto why it may not work. Note the two wires on the outside do the lights. The inside two are the switch.

So there is a start button specific LED that is shorter. Did you use that or regular style?

So if it registered as a start button in test, that means it sees the signal to start the game... the light is irrelevant at that point. So it should be working.

Is it in free play? Did you remember to put the balls back in? Sounds silly but it happens...

Unless it is sticking up too high and you can't push the start button in. Didn't he test it with the switch off the holder and just push the knob ?

LTG : )

I read it as he tested it installed on the machine but I suppose yes, otherwise it might be a bulb issue for physical clearance; I meant the bulb was "electrically" irrelevant regarding all the photos of the wiring, oops. I installed an LED in the similar button on Dr Who and don't recall having an issue. Guess I was lucky!

I've found some LEDs when I've put in the start and extra ball and buy-in buttons don't allow me to push the buttons. There has to be a LED bulb that works for them but I haven't gone searching for one yet. The base is too wide or they are too long to allow the button to be pushed in.

EDIT:
Well I just looked and they do make something. I just made a pinball life order last week. Wish I would have added a couple of these to try out. I'll get a few on my next order.

https://www.pinballlife.com/ablaze-3-led-slim-wedge-body.html

I did this on my DM and had to trim away some plastic on the LED so that it would clear and the button would fully depress.

Sorry I got pulled away but sounds like you found your issue is the LED physically. Here’s a regular SMD and start version LED. Trimming one should work at edge too. You can see comparisons of all three bulbs.

Since I have a start button (actually super ball but same physically) handy, here’s a few pics showing the switch. I’m sharing as I didn’t know this when I got into hobby. But that switch has two tits (yes that’s a technical pinball term) and you carefully pry and end and can swing it out.

CDCFB3F7-F631-4E3C-8EFE-F39590F31D76 (resized).jpeg

66EC989F-BEF8-4994-83CE-22EC7D307F4C (resized).jpeg

FECB7615-ADAA-49E8-B70A-C64033FB9AE9 (resized).jpeg

5D2B4899-6A57-4D2E-A379-15C304D6E208 (resized).jpeg

25D7646C-4EBF-4551-AD52-1FCD67A670A7 (resized).jpeg

CEF71040-D1D6-43FC-9107-5DE4D121EF11 (resized).jpeg

2A706EAE-40B0-4835-8C10-B8D1096D3415 (resized).jpeg

48D576BF-3ED1-4314-89D4-4556543A1EF4 (resized).jpeg

A382042D-A5BD-49B2-892A-9DC337E8F34F (resized).jpeg

C349EDC0-B493-4836-8B5B-4ECF7ED7EDE3 (resized).jpeg

DF3725FD-E0FB-420C-B821-60587F12F729 (resized).jpeg

Bad connection, broken wire. Go into Tests - All Lamps - put a meter on it and see what DC power you have.

LTG : )