(Topic ID: 98636)

How to remove light scratches on powder coated lockdown bar.

By Rickwh

8 years ago


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  • 24 posts
  • 13 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 months ago by Jediturtle
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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#1 8 years ago

My TFLE lockdown bar has some very light scratches or swirl marks along the purple side. Its factory power coat. These are not gouges and you cant feel them when you run you finger over them. But they are noticeable for sure.

Does anyone know the best way to get rid of these?

I tried giving it a coat of Johnsons paste wax and that didnt really do anything. Well maybe it would protect it from getting worse... But they are still visible.

Ill take some pics later today and post them.

Forgive me if this has been covered elsewhere, i did a forum search and didnt really see any solutions to fix the problem. Just mostly posts on FS/FT posts discussing if the game has scratches etc.

Thanks!

#2 8 years ago

Buff it with polishing compound and then wax it

#3 8 years ago

I also heard Novus 2 works but I personally haven't tried it.

#4 8 years ago

20140729_073638.jpg20140729_073628.jpg

#5 8 years ago

Thanks for the feedback so far.

#6 8 years ago

If using Novis use a very small amount as it can cause more damage

#7 8 years ago
Quoted from Zdoor:

Buff it with polishing compound and then wax it

Do u have a recommended polishing compound type to use? I looked on amazon and there are a bunch of diff types. The one that looked best said it was good for clear coat... figured that would be good for playfields. But i didnt know if the powder coating is cleared over?

Sorry for all the questions. And thank you.

#8 8 years ago

You might want to pm pinchroma. Since he does powder coating I would think he would be able to answer the question. Either point him at the post or summarize his answer so the information is made public.

#9 8 years ago
Quoted from Rickwh:

Do u have a recommended polishing compound type to use? I looked on amazon and there are a bunch of diff types. The one that looked best said it was good for clear coat... figured that would be good for playfields. But i didnt know if the powder coating is cleared over?
Sorry for all the questions. And thank you.

Not all powder has clearcoat. Not sure on that stock armor. I use a 3M product I buy at the local auto paint supply house. You should be able to find a decent polishing compound at an auto parts store that will work.

#10 8 years ago

You shouldn't use compound on powder. Nothing with a granulation in it. Powder is not paint... Even a powder clear is still not something you can "compound out". Buff out yes with a wax and an orbital buffer but do NOT use a high setting or any type of cleaning wax. Use a finishing wax. It will take a while but you will be able to get the scratches out.

Remember, Powder is melted PLASTIC (Resin) and metallic charged fillers. It is NOT paint. You can't treat it as such

#11 8 years ago

Thanks for jumping in pinchroma.

#12 8 years ago
Quoted from Pinchroma:

You shouldn't use compound on powder. Nothing with a granulation in it. Powder is not paint... Even a powder clear is still not something you can "compound out". Buff out yes with a wax and an orbital buffer but do NOT use a high setting or any type of cleaning wax. Use a finishing wax. It will take a while but you will be able to get the scratches out.
Remember, Powder is melted PLASTIC (Resin) and metallic charged fillers. It is NOT paint. You can't treat it as such

I had a few light scratches like those in the pic and used a piece of oak to rub them out.
Took awhile but the heat and friction polished them out.

#13 8 years ago

Using a surface rub with a flat surface could work. Basically you are just flattening the valleys of the scratches.

Another old trick if you are EXTREMELY careful is a piece of aluminum flashing and a hair dryer. Using a perfect piece of aluminum flashing (raw) with no coating or coloring, bend it into a cylinder about an inch in diameter and about a foot long (use a dowel if you can) and wrap the bottom 4 or 5" or so in a decent amount of duct tape for a handle.. heat the metal end of the tool real well with a hair dryer (not a heat gun.. you don't want it glowing) and GENTLY but QUICKLY rub it over the surface while hot. Do this multiple times and you will see the surface smooth out. Make sure the surface is clean otherwise you are going to end up baking crap into the finish

#14 8 years ago

I have been wanting to ask the same question. I'll try buffing it out and see how that goes. Thanks for the advice!

P.S. Is there a particular finishing wax you recommend for this purpose?

#15 8 years ago

Pinchroma - If you could do a couple of youtube videos, I'm sure it'd be very appreciated! The aluminum trick almost sounds like flame polishing, which I take it, wont work with powdercoating?

#16 8 years ago
Quoted from ShaunoftheDead:

Pinchroma - If you could do a couple of youtube videos, I'm sure it'd be very appreciated! The aluminum trick almost sounds like flame polishing, which I take it, wont work with powdercoating?

You can't flame polish directly on the surface. You will scorch it and it will be plainly visible. I'll see if I can so a video.

#17 8 years ago

Pinchroma, since powder coat is plastic, will Novus work to get the shine back? After all, that is what Novus is, a plastic polishing system....

#18 8 years ago

Depends. Novus 1 can be used but the lack of shine isn't really dirt it's micro scratches. Dirt would pretty much wipe off with a shot of novus 1. You need novus 1, a microfiber cloth, and a ton of elbow grease to get it really shoney again but I don't know how bad your bar is.

#19 8 years ago

Can you sand powdercoat with ultra-fine sandpaper (3000 or 5000) and then rub it out?

#20 8 years ago

5000 wet sand with something super slick but that's not recommended on dark colors. But again that's only for micro scratches. Anything you can get a finger nail in needs to be heated flat. Then maybe polished out.

#21 8 years ago

I applied a very light coat of johnsons paste wax, left it overnight, then wiped it down with a cotton tshirt rag. Didnt have any real effect. Then attempted a second thicker coat and left it on for about 24 hours. Neither had much effect at all....

Would a microfiber cloth work better than the cotton tshirt material?
Is elbow grease the best method or should i look into a power tool? What buffing power tool is best for pinball nooks and crannies?

#22 8 years ago

Wax itself doesn't do anything. It's pressure to smooth ridges. Remember it's not paint it's resin. Waxing does to really help. You need to smooth valleys.

4 years later
#23 3 years ago

Old thread, but wondered if anyone has had any recent success in buffing out light scratches in powder coat, and the methods/products used?

2 years later
#24 11 months ago
Quoted from demaximis:

Old thread, but wondered if anyone has had any recent success in buffing out light scratches in powder coat, and the methods/products used?

Necro-bumping this thread up. I have a couple light scuffs/scratches on lockdown bars that I would love to clean up. I have tried wax and elbow grease, with very little success. Not sure how aggressive to get as they aren't terrible and I don't want to make them worse. Could likely just leave well enough alone, but figured it wouldn't hurt to bring this thread back to life and see if anyone has had success.

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