(Topic ID: 337746)

How to remove flipper relay from driver board?

By jibmums

10 months ago


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  • 15 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 months ago by jibmums
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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    #1 10 months ago

    I recently bought a Williams Black Knight whose batteries leaked, and unfortunately the blue fuzz dropped onto the driver board underneath onto a few components, one of which was the flipper relay. Somehow the corrosion got inside and I can see it damaged the parts inside the plastic cover. The other affected transistors on the board were easily removed and replaced.

    The rest of the board is good, I just need to remove the relay and solder in a good one, but I cannot seem to desolder this one completely enough to remove it. The lugs are almost as wide as the through holes and seem to allow just a little solder to remain between the two, even where it looks like it was all removed under a magnifiying glass. I'm using a Hakko desoldering gun with a 1.5 mm tip, what should I be doing differently to get this damn thing removed?

    #2 10 months ago
    Quoted from jibmums:

    what should I be doing differently to get this damn thing removed?

    Try flowing on new solder first.

    If that don't do it bigger tip. Careful so you don't hurt the board.

    LTG : )

    #3 10 months ago

    Possibly at the factory the flat tab was slightly tweaked to keep it secure before it went down the line for soldering?

    #4 10 months ago

    This is a place where solder wick can help. Add solder and then remove it with flux and wick. This will help identify any twisted tabs and clear those holes enough to untwist them

    #5 10 months ago

    Tried everything I could think of last night. Added new solder and tried again. Tried solder wick and flux too. And all the lugs/tabs seem to be sticking straight through. I don't know what else to try; maybe leaving the tip in place a little longer to heat it up more, but I don't want to risk lifting the traces. Are these single-sided traces or through holes?

    #6 10 months ago

    Through. Since the relay is garbage it tear it apart. Pull off the cover and start cutting it apart. Try leaving yourself enough of each terminal so the when the plastic is gone you can heat the metal and pull the single lug out .

    #7 10 months ago
    Quoted from Cheddar:

    Through. Since the relay is garbage it tear it apart. Pull off the cover and start cutting it apart. Try leaving yourself enough of each terminal so the when the plastic is gone you can heat the metal and pull the single lug out .

    Yeah, that's probably what I'll have to wind up doing. I was hoping this thing would come out easier, as I have another junk driver board and was hoping to desolder and reuse the relay from that, but the "scorched earth" method of removal kinda precludes that.

    #8 10 months ago

    Follow-up question: when I bought the game, the upper right flipper coil was already burned. Could the damaged flipper relay have been the cause?

    #9 10 months ago

    No, that’s probably an end of stroke switch problem.
    If the donor board is junk, you can easily remove the relay by clamping the board vertically to a solid support (must be done outdoors) then use a propane torch on the solder side of the board while pulling the relay. It will pop free in about 2 seconds. If it takes any longer you aren’t applying enough heat and the relay will be destroyed. The same process can be used to harvest the rest of the parts you want to salvage (use channel lock type pliers on the ends of the IC’s). With practice you can remove any of the parts without any risk of ruining them. You should use a respirator to avoid inhaling any harmful materials released from the burnt pc board resins

    1 week later
    #10 10 months ago

    No propane torch handy so I took @cheddar's advice and cut it off piece by piece with a dremel. I must have done a fairly decent job of desoldering in the first place, as 13 of the 14 lugs were able to be extricated by hand, though they were tight. That tightness and the one that I still had to desolder meant that cutting it off was a necessity.

    Pics of the corrosion inside the relay below, and a few step-by-steps. New relay awaiting installation. Hope I never have to do this again.

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    #11 10 months ago

    To clarify, the propane torch suggestion was only to remove one from another board to use on the board being repaired. The process will instantly destroy the PC board, so must only be attempted on a board that was already on the way to the garbage or ewaste.

    #12 10 months ago
    Quoted from jibmums:

    No propane torch handy so I took Cheddar's advice and cut it off piece by piece with a dremel. I must have done a fairly decent job of desoldering in the first place, as 13 of the 14 lugs were able to be extricated by hand, though they were tight. That tightness and the one that I still had to desolder meant that cutting it off was a necessity.
    Pics of the corrosion inside the relay below, and a few step-by-steps. New relay awaiting installation. Hope I never have to do this again.
    [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    Good job!

    #13 10 months ago

    A temperature-adjustable hot air gun is somewhat easier on the board than a propane torch.

    #14 10 months ago

    Wow, I've never seen someone have to resort to this before. Interesting photos.

    If you're not already aware, you can install a socket for the relay, just like an IC.

    #15 10 months ago
    Quoted from ForceFlow:

    Wow, I've never seen someone have to resort to this before. Interesting photos.
    If you're not already aware, you can install a socket for the relay, just like an IC.

    I have seen those sockets. I've never had or seen another bad relay, this one just happened to be located under a leaky battery. Probably/hopefully something I'll never have to do again, but I have spare relays now.

    Quoted from Mthomasslo:

    To clarify, the propane torch suggestion was only to remove one from another board to use on the board being repaired. The process will instantly destroy the PC board, so must only be attempted on a board that was already on the way to the garbage or ewaste.

    I got that. I have another driver board that may or may not be working that I was going to harvest the relay from, but I figured, why destroy what may be a working board for one part if I can source a new one elsewhere?

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