(Topic ID: 154555)

How to plug holes in a playfield prior to applying varathane clearcoat

By amason2308

8 years ago


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  • 13 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 years ago by KenLayton
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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    #1 8 years ago

    Hi all,

    I'm preparing my old playfields for touchups + clearcoating (varathane from the can) when the weather warms up a little. This'll be my first time so I'm not entirely sure what to expect. I have done minimal stripdown of the underside of the playfield, so I want prep appropriately so that excess varathane does not work its way down through the holes in the playfield and onto the components below. I'm sure there is info on this on pinside but I couldn't find it....

    From looking at several Clay resources it seems he scrunched up bits of frog tape and stuck the holes with those, so I've done the same. I'm just not sure how blocked the holes need to be. I'd like to block them 100% of course but I just don't see how that's possible, particularly where drop targets are.

    Any advice? Is this really that big of an issue or does the clear go on so thin and stick so well that I'm just being paranoid. Instinct tells its going to find whatever crevice it can find and drip down, especially if I do a final heavy coat as so many people suggest.

    Here's a few pics of my prep so far....

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    #2 8 years ago

    That looks like how I did it on a Chicago Coin Top Ten. It turned out nice, no problems

    #3 8 years ago

    I use paper towels to plug holes. and sometimes, a pill bottle bottom works for the round holes

    #4 8 years ago
    Quoted from Dr_of_Style:

    I use paper towels to plug holes.

    How long after spraying do you remove the paper towel? Doesn't it get glued in there?

    #5 8 years ago
    Quoted from iron00monkey:

    It turned out nice, no problems

    Can ask how you applied? Several light coats? One heavy coat? Some sort of combo??

    #6 8 years ago

    I use masking tape, and I leave it in the holes till done sanding and clearing then remove. Yes it does help if you don't put anything in there, the clear will fill in the holes and get in light sockets etc. and it is not fun to remove.

    Phoebe

    #7 8 years ago

    Tape balls or tape over from underside for bigger holes. Small ones should not matter -- not necc to 100% cover in my experience

    #8 8 years ago

    Lots of light coats

    #9 8 years ago

    I puled the rollover wires under & out so I could polish them while I was at it. Didn't get much clear down the open slot.

    Also used bits of Backer Rod Window Weatherstrip in the sockets & bigger gaps, worked well. Cheap.
    http://www.lowes.com/pd_96255-1410-C21_0__?productId=3465630

    Others have recommended old burned-out bulbs in the sockets.

    #10 8 years ago
    Quoted from Model237:

    Also used bits of Backer Rod Window Weatherstrip in the sockets & bigger gaps, worked well. Cheap.
    http://www.lowes.com/pd_96255-1410-C21_0__?productId=3465630

    Good call. I think I have some already too

    #11 8 years ago
    Quoted from iron00monkey:

    Lots of light coats

    OK, this makes sense to me. I'm imagining the first couple light coats filling the small remaining holes between the tape, so you don't have to fill the holes 100% from the start. This fits my plan - I want to do 2 light coats, a one final heavy (wet) coat.

    Now, just need this early spring to keep rolling in....

    #12 8 years ago
    Quoted from Butterflygirl24:

    if you don't put anything in there, the clear will fill in the holes and get in light sockets etc. and it is not fun to remove.

    Yeah, that sounds like a nightmare. I don't want any part of that!

    #13 8 years ago

    Take some clay or silly putty to fill the holes.

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