(Topic ID: 282340)
Yikes. I’m curious as well. Could you slip a credit card down the channel and gently move all the black tabs at once while you pull it out?
Dont those black clips just hold it in place not lock it in place? perhaps work it from the side with a small driver or grab hard and wiggle while pulling.
Cleveland, OH
Quoted from ravve:Perhaps todays most stupid question, but how do I remove this connector from the header?
It can't be that I have to move all the black tabs backwards on the header, before I pull the white connector?
Must be some easier way?
[quoted image]
Get a putty knife and slide it down to release the tabs
Quoted from eyeamred2u:Get a putty knife and slide it down to release the tabs
That's what I do on stubborn connectors.
1 month later
Lol, sorry guys but I am still stuck with this problem. Tried a putty knife but no luck. Tried so hard that I managed to break one of the plastics...
Would be helpful to see a video of how to remove this. I can't even manage to do it on desk as the one in the picture, even harder with the ones already installed in machine.
You have to release with a putty knife then sometimes use a screwdriver to lift up and away from the connector base, it is a 2 part process.
Unless it's being used in a high vibration environment (pinball doesn't qualify), break off all the black locking tabs. Don't need them.
I'd start at one end and pry up using a screwdriver. It's far easier to overcome the locking tabs one at a time rather than the whole connector at once. You're trying to save both the header and housing? If I was still struggling with it after this much time, I would have just bought new ones.
To clarify, these connectors I bought especially from a pinball store, so they are brand new and I am replacing the old IDC connectors/headers with these ones.
Breaking of all the tabs is the best suggestion so far, but it feels really weird that it must be done.
I will try to ask the store if they know a way...
The pinball store shouldn't have pushed them together. They are two separate parts, and it should be up to the buyer (you) to use them.
Still, here is proof that a screwdriver will do it. Yours will be even easier since your empty housing won't have contact friction to fight you.
20210104_102518 (resized).jpg20210104_102533 (resized).jpg20210104_102616 (resized).jpg20210104_102626 (resized).jpg20210104_102636 (resized).jpg20210104_102728 (resized).jpgQuoted from JethroP:Unless it's being used in a high vibration environment (pinball doesn't qualify), break off all the black locking tabs. Don't need them.
This seems like a good suggestion. If it is this difficult to remove when it is not connected to anything, imagine how much more difficult it will be when it is actually attached to a board.
I bet once they are apart once that it will get easier the next time. Get that screwdriver in there and separate them.
Again, I need to clarify 
they DID come apart, it was me that put them together to test on bench, since I can't removw them while in machine.
Just a screwdriver below and press up won't make it, the lock tabs needs to be pushed back at the same time.
The pics from Herg don't show exact how to do this 2-step process, in my opinion (but thanks Herg anyway) 
Quoted from ravve:Just a screwdriver below and press up won't make it, the lock tabs needs to be pushed back at the same time.
Sure it will. The lock tabs are flexible, and they have a ramp shape in both directions. When inserting or removing the connector the ramp on the connector presses against the ramp on the header and causes the header tabs to flex. This assumes enough removal force is being applied, which can be difficult, hence using the screwdriver to pry.
If your connectors are so loose that they will slide apart without the benefit of locking tabs, then your electrical connection will be compromised already.
I don't think I've ever seen non-locking connectors come apart on their own on a pinball circuit board.
Thank u everybody, I'll try with Hergs suggestion. If it won't work, I'll break all lock tabs and not buy lockable headers anymore in the future.
Too bad I bought like 20 of them lol
I can see where this would be aggravating with loose parts. But aren't they normally easier to separate when the male connector is installed on the board, and the board installed - or in other words, fastened, or anchored - to the machine (or workbench, or whatever)? In that way the black header will be anchored by hundreds of pounds, so all your removal effort & force would apply to the white connector instead of displacing the black one with it, so you would have an easier time.
Moral being: you can probably still use the connectors, so long as you don't connect them "outside" the machine.
But stuck as you are with them loose, you may have to clamp just the base of the male part as hard as you can in a toothed vise to simulate the "machine anchor", then pry the female portion with a screwdriver.
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