On many C.C. Big Ball Bowlers, they had 25 cents, 10 cents, and 2 nickles per play, so it was easy to
just route the nickle wires to the quarter slot.
On the small ball bowlers, I take an old bowler score reel, and by using the run out switch, I groove
out 4 other notches on the cam, so along with the original run out notch, you'll have 5 total notches.
With every other score reel step up the switch would open/closed. The coin switch get's wired to the score
reel coil, and the same with the coin relay, with the exception of the coin relay being wired in the run out
switch so it only has a complete circuit when the switch is made which would be every other pulse
of the score reel. I've done it on many machines, and it holds up well. I believe Swinger's circuit is 25V,
right? Many older bowlers are 50V, so the score reel coil may have to be changed, although Chicago Coin
(and pre 1955 United bowlers) are 30V which 25V should pulse..

The first thing to do is put the armature cam switch in the run-out position so that it's open.
Then manually energize the coil twice, and mark the spot where the run-out switch is now resting.
Repeat this three more times starting from the last spot that was marked, so around the cam
there will be 4 marks total. So with every other step-up, the run-out switch will be on a mark..
On the score reel, I take off the 9th position switch along with it's wires leaving only the
run-out switch along with it's wires (and the coil wires)..
The cam comes off and where the marks are, you carve out a small notch. The next time I
make some, I'm getting a dremel tool or something to that nature so I end up with nice clean
notches. I only made one notch (instead of all 4) in this cam just to give you an idea..
In the first pic (or after I click send, I'm thinking it'll be the first pic), the run-out switch is in the
original factory notch-out. In the second pic, the switch is in the notch-out that I carved out.
In the last pic, the run-out switch is positioned right in between the two notches so the switch
is closed. So starting with the switch being in the factory notch-out, with every other step-up,
the switch is open, and of coarse with every other, the switch would be closed also..
After re-wired, only when the switch is in the closed position is when the Coin Relay/Credit Relay
will energize which will take one coin switch pulse to get the run-out switch out of the notch, then
while the run-out switch is now closed, the next coin switch pulse will energize the Credit Relay
along with the Score Reel Coil which will once again place the run-out switch in a notch..
If you decide to use this method, I'm sure you'll be fine doing the re-wiring, but if you'd like to double
check, I can give you the procedure for the wiring.. (T)
Edit: After sending, as you'll see, the first pic shows the run-out switch in between the two notches.
It might not look it, but the run-out switch is open in the notch that I carved out. I maybe should have
made that notch slightly deeper. The Dremel tool with make that an easy job to do..
IMG_1295 (resized).JPGIMG_1296 (resized).JPGIMG_1297 (resized).JPG

In some cases this would be fine, but for me myself, I have ball bowlers out in taverns, VFW,
American Legion, Restaurant, ect. where they wouldn't bother supplying tokens.
The 50's bowler score reel method has been cheap, quick, and very reliable..