Is there still audio issues after installing it?
Quoted from ctozzi:I need to use that flash chip 1st to see if it shuts up the call outs
It definitely shuts them up.
Bumping an old thread due to an edit in the original post. The OP had us add the info (step 9) about the SB from Stern.
Enjoy!
I just installed and updated the Stern flash update. Took all of 3 minutes and I'm happy to say no more annoying attract sounds, game plays perfectly now. I got the chip from the link listed in this thread the pinballplace.com.
Quoted from markmon:We has this conversation.
I got the pal from pinbits
But these http://www.actionpinball.com/cgi-bin/romorder.cgi?name=LOTR
Are only the 10.00 ... ??
Hey Markmon. Thanks so much for posting this. Very helpful. I'm having an issue. I've installed the 3 chips, but the machine isn't booting. DMD says *Stern Pinball* Lord of the Rings, and then goes blank. The it says that again, and then goes blank... Over and over. I guess that means it's not booting properly. I tried removing the batteries as you suggested. I even tried a second CPU EPROM. No joy.
Any thoughts??
Thanks for posting this!
Just upgraded my LotR to shake it, baby! Only took a few minutes thanks to this thread.
Quoted from annointed:I did mine five days ago too, next up is undercab lighting for it this weekend.
I'm going to install the backbox lightning kit (the controlled one from superfluxxshop with flashers) and the ultra-cool Barad-Dur red LED "Lava Mod" tonight!
Thanks for posting this. I installed mine tonight. I like how it's integrated. It's not too in your face.
Quoted from someoneelse:the ultra-cool Barad-Dur red LED "Lava Mod" tonight!
Uh...what mod is THAT? Never heard of it...
Quoted from beelzeboob:Uh...what mod is THAT? Never heard of it...
Yes, my bad, sorry. I meant the "Orthanc"-Mod! I'm not really an expert with all those confusing LotR names.
It's basically just a red LED that lights up the inside of the Orthanc pit in red slightly illuminting the tower whenever the Orthanc diverter is active. It's supposed to resemble the red glowing "Uruk-Hai-Factory" in the pit around the Orthanc tower.
Kinda smart (and very cheap) mod, because it exploits the fact that the diverter is basically a flipper-assembly. Thus you can use a normal EOS switch to control a red LED mounted below the pit.
The idea is great but the effect is not as nice as expected simply because the pin is so bright that the red lighting is not very striking. I've just replaced the row of bulbs on the top of the backboard with 1W lamps, so it's much more noticable now.
I added the shaker last week with these directions. It feels like it should have been there from the beginning. It really adds just that more to the game. I was afraid it would feel like a throwin. But that wasnt the case. If you have the game, install a shaker you will be glad you did.
mike
Anyone tried installing a shaker in LOTR standard edition using the new shaker kit from Stern?
(here's the kit I'm talking about: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fs-stern-shaker-motors-new-deal)
The new PCB now has a ground connector which ends up being plugged in one of J16 pin using the supplied harness. It looks like the said harness connectors have some missing wires which seems to lead to switches not working on the playfield (e.g. ring opto and left tower opto).
I'm planning to add the missing wires to the connectors but I was wondering if anyone else ran into this problem...
Thanks!
Quoted from wspy:Anyone tried installing a shaker in LOTR standard edition using the new shaker kit from Stern?
(here's the kit I'm talking about: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fs-stern-shaker-motors-new-deal)
The new PCB now has a ground connector which ends up being plugged in one of J16 pin using the supplied harness. It looks like the said harness connectors have some missing wires which seems to lead to switches not working on the playfield (e.g. ring opto and left tower opto).
I'm planning to add the missing wires to the connectors but I was wondering if anyone else ran into this problem...
Thanks!
For history, connecting the missing pins between the 2 provided connectors did work. All switches and shaker are now working like a charm!
Congrats man! I'm a big fan of the shaker on this game. Not too little, not too much, it feels just right.
I have a strange one here.
I have everything hooked up properly (I think??!), but there is something awry here.
When I have the shaker connected, the Upper Lef VUK switch does not register, nor does the Ring shot. I know the ring shot is made up of 3 switches. It seems like none of them are registering, but I didn't verify this in switch test. The VUK still fires in ball search. The shaker however seems to be working properly, but the addition of it seems to be disabling a few switches?!!
I thought I'd perhaps blown a fuse, but when I tried simply disconnecting the J16 piggyback connector, and taking the shaker back out of the chain. The machine went back to fully working.
Any suggestions??!
Thanks
Re-visit the opening post, 2nd photo, and Step #7 of markmon's installation instructions.
It doesn't sound like you connected to the empty slot on J9 (High Current Solenoid)? I connected to that same spot, and my shaker is working flawlessly, without negatively affecting any of the playfield switches (including VUK and Ring switches).
Hmmm... Was I just supposed to skip the Stern instructions on how to install the shaker? There was a wiring harness included my shaker that piggybacks off the J16 connector, and supplies the power. I did your connection instructions AS WELL!
Should the shaker have worked without using the included J16 piggyback harness at all?
It didn't work. The machine worked fine, but no response from the shaker. So, I though perhaps I was supposed to follow the whole shaker installation I structuons as well.
Something is certainly amiss here
I guess part of my confusion came because my output from the shaker itself connected to a mini shaker board, and my red/white and Brown wires came off of that board. when I cnnected everything as per initial I structions here, nothing happened. So, I went back and assumed that I was supposed to connect the included harness as well
Thus my dilemma.
The shaker motor wires connect to the mini shaker board directly above it. The red/white wire from the mini shaker board connects to power at the upper coin door switch right near the shaker motor. The brown/white wire from the mini shaker board connects all the way up into the back box at the empty slot (Pin 5) on J9, just to the right of the fuses on the bottom left of the I/O power driver board. (See Stern's Lord of the Rings Manual, Section 5, Chapter 4, Page 128, for a diagram of the I/O power driver board.)
The Molex connector on the far end of the brown/white wire is unused, because you are wiring straight into the connector on the I/O power driver board, not to a mating Molex connector at the end of another wire, so you can actually cut it off to leave a cleaner connection.
Yes. That's exactly what I had done. Perhaps my connection was not good. I didn't have an IDC pusher on hand, so I did my best with a small gauge screwdriver.
I also head some recent Stern shakers were wired incorrectly... Maybe something to that.
Perhaps my issue is just with the connection of the brown wire to pin 5 of the J9 connector. I'll troubkeshoot more when I return home.
Quoted from MapleSyrup:Yes. That's exactly what I had done. Perhaps my connection was not good. I didn't have an IDC pusher on hand, so I did my best with a small gauge screwdriver.
I also head some recent Stern shakers were wired incorrectly... Maybe something to that.
Perhaps my issue is just with the connection of the brown wire to pin 5 of the J9 connector. I'll troubkeshoot more when I return home.
Is the transistor installed on the board that drives pin 5? I read there's a possibility Stern didn't install it on all boards.
Quoted from spidey:Is the transistor installed on the board that drives pin 5? I read there's a possibility Stern didn't install it on all boards.
Yes, make sure there is a transistor installed in Q12, which you can see on the bottom transistor row just to the left of the black wire in the photo on the following post...
Quoted from spidey:Is the transistor installed on the board that drives pin 5? I read there's a possibility Stern didn't install it on all boards.
Yes, I had seen that discussion earlier in this thread. I have the transistor on my board.
Problem solved. Thanks for the input, but my problem was exceedingly simple.
I hadn't hooked up the ground wire to the mini shaker board.
I guess without the black ground wire connected the motor will not activate.
I removed the J16 piggyback connector nonsense. Following too many different sets of instructions I suppose.
All good. My Standard LOTR is running 10.02 with a shaker!! Woohoo!
Congratulations. Enjoy the enhanced experienced. I think you'll really enjoy the Fellowship Multiball.
I am having the same issues. The Ring opto and Tower opto are not working. I also installed the piggy back connector to J16. Am I not supposed to use this part?
No, the piggyback connector to J16 isn't used on LOTR. It must be used on other games?
On LOTR, there should be just one connection in the back box... Brown/white wire to pin 5 on J9, which provides the signal from the ROM. Power and ground connections are all in the bottom cab.
If you remove the piggyback connector, that should eliminate the switch problems. Try that and report back.
Thank you Razorbak86. The shaker motor is revision B. If I remove the piggyback connector the shaker does not work. It only works with the piggyback connector in place but the 2 sets of optos then don't work.
I do have the Brown / white wire to pin 5 of J9.
I connected the red wire to the red wire on the upper switch of the coin door.
You mention a ground but I don't see a ground wire. Is it the black / white wire that connects to the motor driver board and then to the piggyback connector?
Quoted from SoCalPinballs:Thank you Razorbak86. The shaker motor is revision B. If I remove the piggyback connector the shaker does not work. It only works with the piggyback connector in place but the 2 sets of optos then don't work.
I do have the Brown / white wire to pin 5 of J9.
I connected the red wire to the red wire on the upper switch of the coin door.
You mention a ground but I don't see a ground wire. Is it the black / white wire that connects to the motor driver board and then to the piggyback connector?
Yes, that's the one. I clipped that wire, and soldered it to the ground strap near the shaker motor. Without the ground wire connected to the shaker board, the shaker won't activate.
SoCalPinballs, sorry I don't recall what I did with the ground, but I basically followed markmon's instructions in the opening post. It's been over a month since I installed my shaker motor, and I'm traveling on business, so I can't simply pull the glass and raise the playfield to verify until I return home Friday night.
Quoted from MapleSyrup:Yes, that's the one. I clipped that wire, and soldered it to the ground strap near the shaker motor. Without the ground wire connected to the shaker board, the shaker won't activate.
Awesome. I will do that when I get home. Thank you very much for the help!
Quoted from SoCalPinballs:Thank you Razorbak86. The shaker motor is revision B. If I remove the piggyback connector the shaker does not work. It only works with the piggyback connector in place but the 2 sets of optos then don't work.
I do have the Brown / white wire to pin 5 of J9.
I connected the red wire to the red wire on the upper switch of the coin door.
You mention a ground but I don't see a ground wire. Is it the black / white wire that connects to the motor driver board and then to the piggyback connector?
Where do you guys keep getting info on j16? This is nowhere in my guide - edit: I see it is something new from stern. I guess MapleSyrup gas the answers above.
Quoted from markmon:Where do you guys keep getting info on j16? This is nowhere in my guide - edit: I see it is something new from stern. I guess MapleSyrup gas the answers above.
Yes it seems there are some additional connectors in the newer versions of the shaker motor that are not to be used on LOTR. Hope to get mine going tonight.
Quoted from MapleSyrup:Yes, that's the one. I clipped that wire, and soldered it to the ground strap near the shaker motor. Without the ground wire connected to the shaker board, the shaker won't activate.
It's working perfectly now. Had to cut the black/yellow wire from the supplied piggyback connector and run it from the supplied motor driver board to the ground on the cabinet as you mentioned and got rid of the piggyback connector. Thanks for all the help.
lotr.jpg lotr2.jpg lotr3.jpgAwesome! Congratulations. IMO, the shaker motor is very well integrated into the software of this game. FOTR multiball is even more awesome that before (hard to imagine) with the shaker motor rumbling as Balrog roars!
Quoted from markmon:Where do you guys keep getting info on j16? This is nowhere in my guide - edit: I see it is something new from stern. I guess MapleSyrup gas the answers above.
Yes, I think that's where the confusion came in. Stern's new shakers come with a piggyback harness that attaches to the J16 connector. The instructions with the shaker detailed how to hook up the harness to J16. That must apply to only newer games.
To anybody reading this installing a new shaker kit from Stern, don't bother with that connector harness for LOTR. You only need the GND wire.
Thanks Markmon and everyone for this thread. I installed my shaker and it works good. Almost too good. It is really strong and shakes the kitchen hanging light on the floor underneath. I'm going to rotate one of the weights 90 degrees tonight to tone it down a bit. Even like it is, I like having it. Makes the game even more of an experience.
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