Thank you for this as I will be Doing this soon

Yes, Thank You for sharing this. Ive added it to my fav topics and will hopefully will be using this info soon.

Thanks, I am also looking to add a shaker to my LOTR, also hoping for a way to also add shaker to POTC. Again thanks for the LOTR info.

thanks for the infos, now i'm gonna have to find a shaker.

The shaker is really well-done on this game. Well worth the effort IMO.

Thanks for handing down some knowledge to us fellow Pinheads markmon!! Much appreciated. The shaker adds a lot to LOTR hope your loving it!

Very cool of you to post this, markmon. I always thought it was ridiculous that this information was so hard to come by.

Great post. This would make a great instructional video! How,much total for project?

I'm in the middle of the this install today. Directions and photos were helpful. Only issue I had/have is that the brown/white wire is a bit too short to reach up to the back cab. I used my own wire (18 gauage black in the photo) as a patch. Is there a special tool to press the wire into the connector. I tried a flat head screw driver, but can't get the wire to seat.

LOTR_shaker_install_1.jpg

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1590&parent=0

This is the tool you need. It works great.

I do not believe POTC will support shaker due to the fact that the game SW does not have any code in it to tell the shaker motor to shake.

This works on LOTR since the LOTR LE did support a shaker and you are taking advantage of that code. You are changing the chips to implement this on LOTR as this was Sterns way of preventing the LE code from running on a regular LOTR.

Quick question here am I reusing the 10.0 rom as well as the 2 new ones ?
The writeup has it as step 3, since i'm new, the old 10.0 that got replaced with the 10.02 goes behind the dmd and replaces another chip ? Sorry just want to be clear.
1) Install the new PAL chip in your machine. It replaces the chip in the CPU board directly to the left of your game ROM.
2) Install your new 10.02 game rom into your machine.
3) Install display ROM 10.0 into your DMD controller board on the back side of the DMD. You must run the 10.0 display ROM along with the 10.0 or 10.02 code.

There are 4 different chip sets in a whitestar machine that run the code.

There is the CPU chip located on the cpu board. The major version in this case 10.x must match the display chip which is located on the dmd driver board.
DMD chip.
Sound chips. typically these do not change version to version. Not aware of any sterns that do except maybe proto software.
Pal Chip, located on the cpu board. All Whitestar games from Apollo 13 to Sopranos used the same pal chip except two.

One was sharkeys shootout. It was originally designed under sega as golden cue, a spinoff of golden tee and was supposed to have internet capability. when stern made it into sharky's shootout they didn't include internet, but left the pal chip.

The other is LOTR LE. All LE's used a SAM driverboard, but retained the whitestar cpu, power board, and dmd driver board. There really isn't much of an upgrade the way they did it. The pal chip has to be changed in order to get the game to accept 10.x roms which were for the LE only. All LE's supposedly shipped with 10.2, at least that is what I have read. If you did have 10.00 roms you would only need to upgrade the cpu to 10.2 as it is minor revision and not a major. (Major would be 11.x)

ok I just looked and my dmd rom is display 10.0. So I should be fine then ? I just swapped the pal and game cpu for the new one's and left the dmd alone since i do not have another 10.2 rom for the dmd.

Yep plugged em all in and it all works great. Thanks for the help.

I followed these instructions - but its not working just yet. I have verified that all the wires are connecting correctly using a Multi Meter. Software is correct and I have the game on the default settings - any ideas?

Is there a setting in the software to make the shaker active? I think there is one in my SM.

No there is not - I think I am close to the solution - the I/O power board is missing the STP20N1OL that drives the fifth pin. I put a replacement board in that had this part populated and sure enough it worked! Thanks for the reply DCFAN.

That's strange that that pin was missing , but that would do it!

Wonder why the pin was not there, is your lotr a later version? (maybe Stern left out that pin to try and prevent shaker installation???)

Just installed mine last night, its a great subtle effect I LIKE IT! Definitaley an improvement!

Have fun with yours!

It was a later production run - not sure exactly when. It was the problem for sure. I kept thinking the motor was bad - because I knew everything was "perfect" then I started looking at the board and it stuck out! Well now we all have a solution to work around another work around.

@coz6 - Can you describe what you mean

That's not a "pin"; it's a transistor!

[P.S. Kudos on another original spelling of "definitely"!]

After looking at the nice pics from markmon and LOTR Manual a bit, STP20N10L is a transistor (part #110-0106-00, guessing this is what one looks like, http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=190&parent=20&is_print_version=true). The description of the photo above says "CPU board" buts its really J9 on the I/O Power Driver Board. The wiring diagram from the LOTR Manual does show J9 pin5 BLU-YEL as "Not Used" and connected to Q12 which is the STP20N10L transistor thats listed in the manual as being on Q1-Q16 which is J8 & J9 connectors of the IO Power Driver Board. PS: I'm not an electrical engr, I just play one on TV so I defer to those with more experience/knowledge reading these diagrams. I'm going to look at my I/O board tonight and see if I can visually see one of these transistors and will photo here if I learn anything.

Ah, looking at ninjabones pic above, you can see his transistor on Q12 which goes to pin 5 on J9. I suppose if thats an empty hole on the I/O board, then one needs to be purchased & soldered on properly.

@Davros1970 you are correct. I had an empty slot. Must have been done to save money, as I know stern had not even thought of doing the LE at the time of my production.

Exactly! My driver board in LoTR was missing the proper Transistor as well.

Pull the board, solder one in. Quick and Easy. Works like a champ!

This is great info... and so easy to do.

Ordered the PAL and will enjoy running the new code and shaker

This is indeed excellent info and got my shaker installed and happily running last night! I did splice the red/white wire a little further back in the cabinet as access was a little easier for me with the wire stripper. I also whacked off the molex connector on the brown/gray wire that you connect up on J9.

The spot in the front of the cabinet is a little busy and tight with all the wire bundles. It did make me wonder later if anyone has installed their shaker in the back of the cabinet or another spot? Is it less effective as far as shaking strength if you do? Seemed to be plenty of room in the back or middle for it where I'm not trying to shoehorn the shaker in around the wire bundles near the coin door and tilt mechanism.

Yea, that seems like a great area. Nice and open. I followed the instructions myself on front/left corner of cabinet, but seems like that little motor is plenty strong to rock the machine from probably anywhere.

Trying to put one in my LOTR cause of this thread, but it's been almost two weeks and I still haven't received the PAL chip from Pinbits... Not responding to my email either!

Does it normally take them this long?

I had no issues with Pinbits when I ordered my PAL. Everything shipped and arrived in a reasonable time (about 1 week). I've never had to email them so not sure about that.

My shaker is on the left side.

I have a spare chip thanks to the previous owner.

There was some fuss about old pinbits chips on newer runs, maybe they tossed the old chips & that explains the delay? Not the lack of emails though, try the PM feature on Pinside too.

If I've got a EPROM programmer, can I make my own PAL chip?

Sorry for the newb question...just checking to see if I should be ordering it, or looking into making my own.

Love it! "Newb" with a 51 pin collection...

Newb in ROM burning. Just got the GQ-4X yesterday.

I'm not sure when I'll ever feel like a "pro", though. Even though I've been collecting for 13 years, and I do most of my own work (including board stuff), there still seems to be so much that is out of my league.

Pete

installed my shaker kit into my LotR Standard edition. 2 chips and a couple of wires. couldn't have been easier if it was done at the factory. love it. thanks for the guide.

I'm at a loss, just can't get it to work. I have the correct roms running. Wired the whole thing up, transistor is in place and working. Nothing...

OMW to bed, so can't take the time to search now sorry. But there were quite a few of these shakers with the wiring pinned wrong/backward/incorrect recently. You should be able to search chakers in general and see what I'm talking about. Would explain yours not working at all if everything else is right!
Good luck!

I was hoping this was the case...but everything seems to be all good on the shaker board.

Figured out the problem, sort of. I have an Elvis with a shaker so I swapped shaker boards. Shakee works on LOTR now...so now to troubleshoot the board. ****problem solved - only one of the pins on the 5 pin connecter were soldered on.

Thanks for the follow up to the problem, that information might be useful to someone else

Happy New Year All,

Installed my shaker motor per the instructions here and the shaker motor documentation over the holidays. Ahhh....doesn't work. I had to install (solder) the Q12 transistor for pin 5 of the J9 connector as previously posted. Installed the new PAL, new 10.02 game ROM, and the 10.0 display ROM. Nothing. Checked continuity on all wires to/from the Motor Driver Board using a multi-meter. Anyone have any ideas on how to troubleshoot this further? Any way to check the inputs into the motor? I'm at a loss and bummed it doesn't work.

Thanks,
Greg

We could try the kit in one of our showroom machines to see if it works next time you are down in the Denver Area, If it doesn't work swap you with another kit.. Hell if you got nothing going on, I could meet you down there around 8 tonight

Thanks for your customer service JJ. Let me try some troubleshooting with a scope and I'll get back to you. Happy New Year.