(Topic ID: 76961)

How to dye posts and inserts when the color is unobtainium.


By Superchicken

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 13 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 months ago by Frax
  • Topic is favorited by 10 Pinsiders

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There have been 5 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

ink post cross section.jpg
products.jpg
post dye.jpg
arrow2.jpg
arrow1.jpg

#1 5 years ago

This one is pretty easy. I’m currently restoring Seawitch and have run into issues. One of the arrow inserts was loose and bowed and shrunk to the point where it was unusable and numerous posts had been replaced with whatever the operator had on hand at the time. Well, the arrow inserts (two) are yellow and the facetted posts are blue; these colors are no longer available. However, the insert is available in white and the posts can be had in clear.

The solution is to dye them using acrylic ink. I found yellow and a dark blue that matched at an art supply store. I added some acrylic, clear airbrush medium to help with the flexibility and adhesion. I’m not sure if it helped or not, but it didn’t hurt. Here are the pics:
arrow1.jpg
arrow2.jpg
I put the posts into a ziplock bag for about 5 minutes to dye them.
post dye.jpg
The post on the left is the original and on the right is dyed.
products.jpg

#2 5 years ago

Thanks for posting your process! Didn't realize they made acrylic INKS or DYES. Nice results, too.

Ryan Claytor
Elephant Eater Comics
www.ElephantEater.com

#3 5 years ago

Those look great! Did the ink really penetrate the plastic or is it sitting on the surface like paint?

I've got some dyes but no clear posts to experiment with, I'll add some posts to my next order and give it a shot. Thanks for posting this.

Art.

#4 5 years ago
Quoted from MrArt2u:

Those look great! Did the ink really penetrate the plastic or is it sitting on the surface like paint?
I've got some dyes but no clear posts to experiment with, I'll add some posts to my next order and give it a shot. Thanks for posting this.
Art.

I don't think it penetrates. I also don't see this stuff chipping or peeling off. My understanding is that ink is paint with a super fine pigment. I colored some posts for Xenon years ago (maybe 7) and they still look great.

#5 5 years ago

You can actually dye compatible plastics like Nylon.

If you take Nylon post and dye them, then you saw them in half, you can see the amount of penetration.

#6 5 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

You can actually dye compatible plastics like Nylon.
If you take Nylon post and dye them, then you saw them in half, you can see the amount of penetration.

Are posts Nylon? I spoke with Steve at PBR where I bought the posts and arrow and he wasn't very optimistic about my plan to color them.

#7 5 years ago

Some posts are Nylon.

Not Star or Beehives though.

#8 5 years ago

Couldnt you use this.
http://www.ritdye.com/dyeing-techniques/tips-success

Here's What Rit Will & Will Not Dye

Choose Your Fabric & Materials

Rit works best on many natural, washable fabrics and materials, such as ...

100% cotton, linen, silk, wool, ramie
Synthetics such as rayon and nylon
Fiber blends with at least 60% cotton or other dyeable fiber

(Blends will tint evenly but will not achieve full color)
Nylon-based plastic such as those found in buttons, fasteners, golf balls & lacrosse sticks
Natural materials such as wood, wicker, paper, feathers and cork
... but there are fabrics and materials that will NOT accept dye such as ...

100% polyester, acrylic, acetate, fiberglass, spandex and metallic fibers
Fabrics with rubber backing (bath mats or throw rugs)
Fabrics with special finishes such as water repellents
Fabrics with bleach damage or extensive staining
Fabrics washable only in cold water or labeled "dry clean only"
Polyethylene plastics such as golf discs
Polycarbonate plastics such as eyeglass frames
If you are in doubt as to whether your fabric will accept dye, test a swatch.

#9 5 years ago

I had a post colored with an ink that the blue was too light so I cut a cross section and sanded it smooth. I looks like the ink is just on the surface. That being said, there is no evidence that this treatment will peel or chip unless the plastics itself chips. Here's a pic:

ink post cross section.jpg

#10 5 years ago
Quoted from Pin-it:

Couldnt you use this.
http://www.ritdye.com/dyeing-techniques/tips-success
Here's What Rit Will & Will Not Dye
Choose Your Fabric & Materials
Rit works best on many natural, washable fabrics and materials, such as ...
100% cotton, linen, silk, wool, ramie
Synthetics such as rayon and nylon
Fiber blends with at least 60% cotton or other dyeable fiber
(Blends will tint evenly but will not achieve full color)
Nylon-based plastic such as those found in buttons, fasteners, golf balls & lacrosse sticks
Natural materials such as wood, wicker, paper, feathers and cork
... but there are fabrics and materials that will NOT accept dye such as ...
100% polyester, acrylic, acetate, fiberglass, spandex and metallic fibers
Fabrics with rubber backing (bath mats or throw rugs)
Fabrics with special finishes such as water repellents
Fabrics with bleach damage or extensive staining
Fabrics washable only in cold water or labeled "dry clean only"
Polyethylene plastics such as golf discs
Polycarbonate plastics such as eyeglass frames
If you are in doubt as to whether your fabric will accept dye, test a swatch.

Like Vid said that should work on Nylon, but I'm into easy. A proper art supply store has these inks in a fairly good range of colors and they can be mixed kind of like acrylic paint. Just make sure your work area is protected and you wear gloves. This stuff does not like to clean up easily. Don't ask how I know this.
%(

#11 5 years ago
Quoted from Superchicken:

This stuff does not like to clean up easily. Don't ask how I know this.

I wont. We all have that moment.

5 years later
#12 3 months ago

reviving this thread
superchicken:
I've seen tips where people have added a 1 : 1 ratio of the ink with isopropyl alcohol. did you do that, or just add the ink straight 100%
after the 5 minutes, what did you do with the parts after removing them from the bag, just let them sit out to air dry or did you rinse them with anything?

#13 3 months ago
Quoted from j_m_:

reviving this thread
@superchicken:
I've seen tips where people have added a 1 ratio of the ink with isopropyl alcohol. did you do that, or just add the ink straight 100%
after the 5 minutes, what did you do with the parts after removing them from the bag, just let them sit out to air dry or did you rinse them with anything?

If it's nylon based, and using Rit dye, I've used vinegar + liquid dye, in a stainless pot on the stove (pretty warm, not super hot, and certainly not boiling) several times to good effect. Just remember you can always go more saturated, but no way to reverse it, so start with either less time or dye than you think you need, and work up. I don't have any ratios...I just eyeballed it, realizing that more dye in the mix meant faster saturation.

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