(Topic ID: 74810)

How to drill out rivets from plastics?

By NJGecko

10 years ago


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  • 40 posts
  • 19 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 years ago by Methos
  • Topic is favorited by 5 Pinsiders

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#1 10 years ago

Getting on the Funhouse work and it's time to swap some of the nasty plastics with new, but they have brackets riveted to them. Pretty sure just supposed to drill them out, right?

#2 10 years ago

Yes, take a smaller bit than the size of the rivet but bigger than the center and all you have to do is drill the head off and the rivet will come out.

#3 10 years ago

Which side do you drill from?

#4 10 years ago

Use a 1/8" bit and drill from the back.
I suggest placing it on a block of wood and use a sharp or new drill.
Try not to drill for a long time or it may melt the plastic or ramp.

#5 10 years ago

I would suggest using a dremel and not drilling but grinding off the back of the rivet very slowly. Two potential problems with the drilling. (1) unless the rivet is tight, it might spin and mess up the plastic. (2) I find it harder to control with the bench drill. Beware of the heat generated. It can very very quickly start melting the plastic. But maybe not a problem if you are putting in new ones.

#6 10 years ago
Quoted from lb1:

I would suggest using a dremel and not drilling but grinding off the back of the rivet very slowly. Two potential problems with the drilling. (1) unless the rivet is tight, it might spin and mess up the plastic. (2) I find it harder to control with the bench drill. Beware of the heat generated. It can very very quickly start melting the plastic.
I thought you were putting new plastics on your FH. Is there one you need to reuse?

Dremel...great idea! I haven't used mine for a while, totally forgot about it!

And yes, all new plastics, but the plastics don't come with brackets, flasher sockets, etc riveted, so I need to reuse them.

2013-12-24 20.12.10.jpg2013-12-24 20.12.10.jpg
#7 10 years ago

If you drill them out place a drop of oil on the back of the river to reduce friction and therefore heat.

#8 10 years ago

Drill through the rivet with a bit several sizes smaller first.

#9 10 years ago

Use a dremel grinder and just grind the edges off the back. Only do it for a few seconds, and tap it out from the back after every few seconds. If you drill or grind to long, you will melt the plastic. I have experience.

#10 10 years ago

I use a tapered countersink and then tap out with a rollpin punch.

#11 10 years ago

Dremel works great, especially since you have backup washers, if you over grind, you'll simply scuff the washer not your lamp housing, you can either flip the washer over, or replace them.

#12 10 years ago

Drill out the back of the rivet like everyone has suggested, after that I use a spring loaded center punch on the side I just drilled, and place a small socket with just a larger opening that the head of the rivet on the other side, then just push down on the spring loaded center punch a couple of times and the rest of the rivet will push through the other side into the socket. Quick and easy.

#13 10 years ago

As others have mentioned, the best way to drill is not to drill! Get out that Dremel.

#14 10 years ago

the question is...how do you re rivot them after you are done??

#15 10 years ago

Its like the old saying goes........Very carefully. Good luck and just take your time.

John P. Dayhuff
Battle Creek, Mi.
269-979-3836

#16 10 years ago

What "bit" do you like to use on the Dremel?

#17 10 years ago
Quoted from Ballsofsteel:

the question is...how do you re rivot them after you are done??

If you use a "pop rivet gun" on plastics, you need a backing washer to keep the rivet from expanding and cracking the plastic.

Don't forget this.

http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-riveter-set-38353.html

#18 10 years ago

To put in the new squeeze rivets I use an old automotive brake shoe lining riveter, it works great, when done it looks like it was factory done. I bought it from an old auto repair shop that was going out of business.

#19 10 years ago

some good ideas

#20 10 years ago

if you wait a couple days I can help you

#21 10 years ago

don't pop rivet to reinstall. roll rivet so they look right and you don't crack the plastics.

Third had rivet tool is very nice and priced well. I have probably done 40 roll rivets with mine and it works like a charm.

#22 10 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

Third had rivet tool is very nice and priced well.

What does that statement mean?

#23 10 years ago

I remember using a rivet setting tool and solid rivets years ago

#24 10 years ago
Quoted from RoyF:

What does that statement mean?

"Third hand rivet tool" i believe

#25 10 years ago
Quoted from Rickwh:

"Third hand rivet tool" i believe

That makes a bit more sense. Can someone describe what this is, or show a picture or link?

#26 10 years ago

http://www.arbortime.com/

appears to no longer be available...

other rivet options >>> http://www.pinrestore.com/Riveting.html

3rd Hand is great because you can reach into awkward and tiny places.

#28 10 years ago

Just for my own update...Dremel did the trick. Got them right out. New rivets installed, so life is good for me!

#29 10 years ago

Here is one that is similar to the one Highspeed1 has but is more expensive than the original

ebay.com link: itm

#30 10 years ago

Hmm. Looks different than the one Hurky used to sell on Ebay.

#31 10 years ago
Quoted from NJGecko:

Just for my own update...Dremel did the trick. Got them right out. New rivets installed, so life is good for me!

Could you tell us what type of "bit" you used on your Dremel while drilling out the rivets? I tried using a cutoff wheel once to remove the rolled edge from the backside of the rivet, but it was hard to avoid damaging the plastic if the rivet didn't have a backing washer. If using the drilling method, it was tough to keep the rivet from spinning.

#32 10 years ago
Quoted from RoyF:

Could you tell us what type of "bit" you used on your Dremel while drilling out the rivets? I tried using a cutoff wheel once to remove the rolled edge from the backside of the rivet, but it was hard to avoid damaging the plastic if the rivet didn't have a backing washer. If using the drilling method, it was tough to keep the rivet from spinning.

I did use a cutoff wheel and basically ground the rivet's lip down over the washer. The washer took some hits, but not something I could avoid. Yeah, it did get plenty hot and the plastic underneath got melted a little bit. Not sure if I could have avoided it or not, but I wasn't too concerned since it was the old plastics, so they were destined for the trash anyway!

#33 10 years ago

Using a towel with an ice cube on the other side of the rivet will help keep it cool and prevent melting/damaging the plastic if needed.

#34 10 years ago

Yep, more of an issue if the plastic is to be reused, like when putting on a new ramp flap. I'd be interested to hear what others do to remove the rivet without damaging the plastic, including any tips for the situation where a backer washer wasn't used with the original rivet.

#35 10 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

Using a towel with an ice cube on the other side of the rivet will help keep it cool and prevent melting/damaging the plastic if needed.

Smart!

#36 10 years ago

side note : NJgecko >> do you have leopard geckos?

#37 10 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

side note : NJgecko >> do you have leopard geckos?

Yep. 4 leopards and one crested

#38 10 years ago

very cool!
I had a few leopards in college. Started a small breeding colony for fun (before all the crazy morps came out) and used to sell the babies to the local mom and pops pet store.

Such cool pets and probably the best first pet for kids IMHO. My friend still has the first baby leo I ever hatched, his name is Sirus and he is now 12 years old and doing well.

I gave my few leopards to a friend that teaches high school in IL and he still has 2 of the 3.

#39 10 years ago

Yeah, I like the little guys a lot. Something about them...
Unfortunately one is off to the vet this afternoon, but hopefully all will be well...

#40 10 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

http://www.arbortime.com/
appears to no longer be available...
other rivet options >>> http://www.pinrestore.com/Riveting.html
3rd Hand is great because you can reach into awkward and tiny places.

I use the same one, and it works very well. You directly apply the amount of the pressure so you can adjust and take it slow so you don't crack the plastics. Takes a bit of muscle - but a nice tool.

Have not tried the ice, but I come at it only for a few seconds and then cease and wait for a bit so it cools down. Helps to practice on spare ramps at first.

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