(Topic ID: 199375)

How To Disconnect 1980 Stern Coin Door Wire Connector


By clodpole

2 years ago



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  • 13 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by clodpole
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#1 2 years ago

Wires from coin door insert into half of a white plastic connector which joins a mated opposite. The halves are held together by springy fingers with little flat-ended ramps to keep the connectors from separating. I can't figure out how to get the springy ramps depressed so that I can take the two sides of the connector apart. Any suggestions?

I'm trying to get my "QUARTER" lights to light on the coin door but they are getting no voltage. I suspect a bad connection inside the first connector box.

Thanks!

#2 2 years ago

mine just wiggled apart , but I do see a little catch in there

IMG_1416a (resized).jpg

#3 2 years ago

Called a 'friction lock' -- just grab and pull.

#4 2 years ago

>Called a 'friction lock' -- just grab and pull.

It isn't only friction; you can just make out 2 small tabs with spring locks on them in the photo above. Pulling alone doesn't release the tabs and so far I haven't figured out how....

#5 2 years ago
Quoted from clodpole:

>Called a 'friction lock' -- just grab and pull.
It isn't only friction; you can just make out 2 small tabs with spring locks on them in the photo above. Pulling alone doesn't release the tabs and so far I haven't figured out how....

wiggling while pulling apart is how mine came loose. in the photo, the tab on the upper half of connector does not push in at all; the lower half of the connector may spread apart slightly as I wiggle

I haven't figured out what conductors do the lamps on the coin slot but may be able to read both side of connector without unplugging

#6 2 years ago

Yep, Friction lock. The locking tabs on the receptacle (top, left connector) don't move, the top of the slot on the plug (bottom, right connector) flexes outward as you push connectors together or pull them apart. Tell tale sign is the shape of locking tabs. It's triangular so it slides off as well as slide on.
The thing that holds it together so tightly is the fact that they have been mated together for many years. Do as Chas said -- wiggle them apart.

#7 2 years ago

wiggle (resized).jpg

#8 2 years ago

Thanks for the instructions (and the excellent "how-to" photograph) - I'll give it a try this afternoon.

Meanwhile, do you have a coin box you could photograph or measure? I'm trying to find one of those, but only know the measurements of the inside of my cabinet.

Best wishes!

#9 2 years ago

OK, I put a drop of alcohol between the halves of the plastic connector box and then wiggled (Tom Jones music goes here). It came apart, happily - thanks again for the encouragement. Unfortunately, no progress was made on the unlit "Quarter" slots; connectivity tester showed no breaks from connector box to coin slots. I'll have to chase it farther upstream.

I note my machine has 2 quarter slots and most photos I see show flight 2000s having 3. Maybe I got a replacement door with my used machine....

#10 2 years ago

my coin door has 3 slots , 2 quarter & 1 dollar coin slot

I don't have a coin box for your measurements

my coin door lamp wires seem to trace back to the Rectifier board ( I just happened to have my playfield up working on feature lamp sockets)

#11 2 years ago

I'll try tracing back to that board and see what I find. Thanks anyway as regards coin box measurements.

#12 2 years ago

"...my coin door has 3 slots , 2 quarter & 1 dollar coin slot
I don't have a coin box for your measurements
my coin door lamp wires seem to trace back to the Rectifier board ( I just happened to have my playfield up working on feature lamp sockets)"

Ahhh... no power on the rectifier board pins to the coin door lights. Having a real solid state repairman over to do the remainder of the fix for me; my soldering skills are better suited to the industrial size connections on an EM.

#13 2 years ago

Final resolution: coin door lights were off 'cause one wire was in the wrong connector on the J2 section of the rectifier board - slot 4 instead of slot 5. Once that was moved, the lights came on.

IMG_0091 (resized).JPG

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