(Topic ID: 172399)

How to best soundproof?

By goatdan

7 years ago


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    #1 7 years ago

    Thanks to the help of some friends, my basement gameroom is once again moving along...

    Having said that, one of the next things that I REALLY need to figure out is soundproofing. A little background...

    Our house that we moved to last year is from 1888. It is actually a duplex, and we are living on the second and third floors of it, and the gameroom is in the basement. We have tenants living on the first floor. As of right now, the soundproofing is non-existent. The underside of the floor is straight ductwork and rafters in the majority of the basement. It's a tall ceiling.

    While I would like the ability to get to the rafters relatively easily in case ductwork or anything ever needs to be done, I do not plan on running anything else through this area like speaker wires or anything like that.

    With all that said, from what I have been able to see, mass loaded vinyl seems the thing to do. What I don't know is if I put that up, would I need to add anything over it? I was hoping to make the ceiling black anyway, so this seems like it might work out just fine. From what I can tell, this would dramatically reduce the sound of the games for the tenants - is this correct? I don't want to spend a ton of money and time on the project if it wouldn't help that much more than just putting up some plywood or something.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated. The online information that I search for doesn't seem to answer leaving the MLV exposed, and is mostly described as "in wall" applications.

    #2 7 years ago

    A drop ceiling can help a lot. Nailing plywood will not help as much - the reason is the vibration will travel through the directly connected plywood. But a drop ceiling suspended by wires will not transfer the vibrations through the wires.

    #3 7 years ago

    Most sound proofed music rooms/studios I've seen use at least foam-like dampening material. on the walls and ceiling.

    #4 7 years ago

    Simpler fix for your two machines unless you plan to extensively expand your gameroom in the future.

    Plug the center channel speakers in the bottom cabinets with a circular piece of soft foam used for couch cushions. Non-obtrusive, removable, and non-damaging.

    Sound will be reduced by roughly 50%.
    Vibrating due to construction is another matter. That is low frequency.

    The long term solution can be solved by visiting a music studio (for a visual reference) and purchasing hexagonal tile panel soundproofing for the walls and ceiling overlaid with regular building materials to hide their surfaces. Today, there are also now special carpet options to provide soundproofing integrated into floors.

    #5 7 years ago
    Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

    Simpler fix for your two machines unless you plan to extensively expand your gameroom in the future.

    Yeah, let's pretend that I have a quantity of games somewhere between 60-70, and I am hoping to deaden the sound so that if I were to have a party for instance with many games on and the tenants opted to not come down, they wouldn't hear every single word clearly one level up. Having said that, let's also pretend on I'm a relative budget for it. I mean, if it will work better I'll spend more, but I don't want to drop $20k on this or something crazy.

    From what I have seen, drop ceilings without additional barriers (like the mass loaded vinyl that I mentioned) don't reduce sound too much. I would much rather not drop the ceiling even with the MLV and just leave the ceiling that if that is what I end up going with. From my understanding also, foam doesn't reduce the sound so much as it absorbs the echos, which I am less concerned about than not driving the tenants batty.

    Thanks for the input so far - does anyone have the experience with the MLV?

    #6 7 years ago

    you know what works really good. What a lot of bands do for practice rooms is take Egg cartons (preferably the cardboard ones) and staple them to the walls. Keep them close together and you would be surprised how deading the sound is. Works really well and sounds like a recording studio. I saved up a bunch of them just for that purpose.

    #7 7 years ago

    If you have more than 10+ machines in one room running simultaneously, a separate independent room, preferably a basement is required. It is very diificult to moderate the overall volume and activity, except with studio soundproofing. It will be loud, not just due to machines. I have lived in duplexes (and very large apartments, townhouses, condos, etc), but my neighbors liked pinball. It was an evaluated prerequisite.

    #8 7 years ago

    The only thing that stops sound transfer is an air gap. Foam and carpet and other stuff stuck to the walls or ceiling deaden the reverb and make the sound inside the room better, but don't stop the transfer through the walls. I have built three music studios into houses with 90%+ sound proofing by building a room within a room, including opposite-opening double doors. Normal frame separated from the surrounding frame lined with high density dry-wall will do the trick. Of course you are going to lose space in your room, but it will work. I guess maybe too expensive though, as it is basically a full room build. Nothing else comes close in terms of performance though.

    #9 7 years ago

    When your done sound proofing, for a added level of sound protection you could also install my headphone kits. Hit the mute button and crank the headphones louder then you crank the speakers. The clicking from the game will be minimal noise compared to the level your blaring in your head
    That is if your worried about the extra noise you create playing

    #10 7 years ago
    Quoted from ForceFlow:

    Most sound proofed music rooms/studios I've seen use at least foam-like dampening material. on the walls and ceiling.

    That's actually for acoustic reasons... not soundproofing.

    #11 7 years ago

    I recently replaced the doors to my basement with solid doors. They used to be hollow indoor doors. It makes a big difference.

    One thing you may not be able to avoid though is the duct work carrying the sounds from the pinballs to the floor above.

    #12 7 years ago

    TimeBandit is 100% right. This idea of visiting music studios and visually copying what's on their walls is a bad suggestion. Music studios apply acoustic treatments to improve sound quality within a space...They use other techniques to stop sound transfer.

    Aside from independently isolating your room (which isn't possible in your case) you need to increase surface mass on your ceilings and or wall (sometimes folks will apply a rubber matt layer between wood or carpet flooring and a floor) or add a second layer of drywall to your ceiling...but you'll have to use things like green glue, etc to help stop transfer between the ceiling and the joists. You can also add dense insulation in the joists (and then apply outer layerings), but you still have to leave an air gap. Drop ceiling will also help.

    #13 7 years ago

    When I did my game room, I put a drop ceiling in. Not particularly for sound but asthetic reasons. I also put insulation in the ceiling. I am amazed how the sound does not travel above. The game room is below my kitchen which has a tile floor and a dining room with a wood floor. There is alsmost no sound getting through. I think it's also important to put good ceiling tiles as well.

    #14 7 years ago

    If you decide to add acoustic material such as foam or egg crates, make sure whatever you install is fire rated or treated. Non rated foam materials or similar combustibles burn like gasoline.

    #15 7 years ago

    I think I can help here. I'm building a theater that sits right below my master bedroom, so soundproofing is high on my list. I'll warn you though, it's expensive.

    Think of soundproofing like a submarine. It's pretty much all or nothing. Cutting corners is like building a submarine and then punching a hole in the door. You have to treat everything and I mean everything. Electrical outlets, light cans, HVAC duct work, etc.

    I have a build thread going on my basement, but here is the nuts and bolts of the theater.

    1. Walls are built 1" shorter than the joists.
    2. Walls are decoupled from the joists with IB-3 Clips
    3. Walls and Ceilings are insulated with R-19.
    4. IB-1 Clips are used to decouple the drywall from the studs
    5. Backer boxes are built for any recessed lighting
    6. All outlets get putty pads to stop noise transmission
    7. HVAC is addressed in a number of different ways (Dead vents, mini split system, zoned system, etc)
    8. Double 5/8" Type-X Drywall is hung separated by a layer of Green Glue
    9. All joints are caulked with acoustical sealant
    10. A solid core door is hung that is typically reinforced with layers of MDF
    11. Air tight door seals are installed

    My room should have an STC somewhere around 65 - 70.

    Your situation might be a little easier since you're not going to be trying to protect against low frequency like I need to in the theater. Unless you have your pins hooked up to subs. The lower the frequency, the more robust a solution you'll need.

    The best thing you can do, is contact Ted White with The Soundproofing Company and explain what you want to do. It's one of the foremost experts on soundproofing. His help has been instrumental. He'll be able to recommend a solution based on your needs.

    https://www.soundproofingcompany.com/

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