I've done my best to search the forum and other places, but I cannot find a guide on how to wire a spinner to a WPC89 pin that currently does not have one. My idea would be to add a Stern spinner assembly (https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/511-5113-00) to a game, then wire the spinner to the pops so that it scores/banks points in the equivalent amount as when a pop bumper fires.

My first thought is to just jumper the wires to the wires on one of the pop bumper leaf switches, but didn't know electronically if this would be an issue or not (while I can troubleshoot and make basic electrical repairs, I don't fully understand electronics).

Anyway, any advice is greatly appreciated.

I hadn't thought of the pops firing, I thought each pop might have a separate scoring switch. I've not dug under the hood yet, so I'm going to have to take a look and see what's there.

I have no desire to modify code. All I want to do is add the spinner, but some how tie it into an existing scoring mechanism instead of just spinning for the heck of it - cool enough, but why not next level? Maybe the pop bumpers aren't the right/best place, but somewhere on the pin where a switch triggers scoring should do the trick. I assume one could just wire in parallel so that if either switch closed it would complete the circuit.

Okay, just above where I want to put the spinner is the first loop switch that would be ideal to wire into. It makes sense from a triggering perspective since you are just entering the loop after passing the spinner, it scores a few points (nothing major), and it even makes a short sound that would be perfect for the spinner effect when fired consecutively.

Now I just have to measure for fitting the spinner to see if it is going to be physically possible.

Now this is my question . . . since the wiring to the existing switch is in the switch matrix, can I just connect the additional switch wires to the leads on the switch I want to connect to and all is good?

I didn't mention the game on purpose, but it is fairly obvious if you dig a little (I didn't want anyone beating me to the punch). Anyway, I just hooked up a switch with alligator clips, went into the switch matrix to text, and it worked perfectly. Fitting a spinner assembly is going to be tight. I measured as best I could, but don't think I'll know for sure until I order one and test fit it.

Can someone tell me what gauge wire I should be using (18 AWG)?

Also, you are correct on not needing a diode. There is a diode on the switch I plan on connecting to, and the same setup is on the slings (the main switch wired into the loop has a diode, but the switch joining to it does not). Does this mean I will need to remove the diode that comes installed with the switch assembly?

I received my spinner this weekend and I tried fitting it everywhere in the pin, but I just can't make it fit since everything is too tight around where I would place it. I need to look at one more possibility if I cut a plastic (which I hate to do), but it may be the only option.

As an update, I looked at things more closely, and there is literally only one place where I can get the spinner to work on my Getaway, and that is indeed going to require cutting out a notch in a plastic.

I went ahead and put the spinner in place with strong carpet tape (didn't want to put screws in the playfield just yet, wired it in parallel to the nearby bottom left orbit switch, put some decals on it, then tested. To my surprise actually, it works great. It spins well and doesn't inhibit the ball in any way, scores a few points per revolution, and feels great when you hit it.

As far as the plastic goes I've left it off for now (it is a really large 14" piece), but I was able to order a used one on eBay. I won't mind at all cutting the notch out of this donor plastic to allow for the post and switch to fit with the plastic in place.

IMG_5646.JPGIMG_5647.JPGgetaway.gif

At this point, I'm going to try to design a custom 3D printed switch bracket that would omit the need to physically cut the existing game plastic. I have an idea in my head, but just don't know if it is executable yet (I need to invert the switch, rotate/bend the spinner trip wire 180 degrees or maybe I can reshape the switch, and determine if the 3D printed part is strong enough to handle things (I'll be using PETG for this application).

I'm still prototyping, but eventually yes. However, it is very simple based on the guidance TreyBo69 provided above. Center lead of spinner switch to center lead of existing switch, and outside lead (the one under the hinge point of the metal switch) to the lead on the existing switch that is wired (i.e. the one that isn't diode connection only).

Correct, when wired in parallel like I describe.

FYI, I've finalized my Getaway spinner design, and you can see my posts here:

- Functioning spinner pics/video: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/224#post-6198407

- Participation in first run: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/224#post-6198440

Correction on the wiring. After looking at the way the slings are wired again, they have the lead with the diode only going to the second switch and not the lead with diode and power wire. I don't know that it matters, as it seems to work both ways but I changed my wiring to mirror the sling wiring.