(Topic ID: 57737)

How to add a cheap sub, under $40 that sounds awesome to your WPC game


By markmon

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 75 posts
  • 39 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 64 days ago by hawknole
  • Topic is favorited by 147 Pinsiders

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    Speaker and crossover (resized).jpg
    L-pad installed (resized).jpg
    Speaker (resized).jpg
    Crossover & L-Pad (resized).jpg
    image (resized).jpg
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    image-217.jpg
    image.jpg
    image.jpg
    Pre-DCS-w-LPAD.jpg
    image-668.jpg
    image-907.jpg
    WPC-95 Audio Filter Schematic.png

    There are 75 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
    #51 4 years ago

    In general, watts is the rating of power that a speaker can handle. If the original rating is known, try to match if you can. A higher rating is OK... Compared to a lower rating which might get blown out by the original circuitry (amplifier).

    #52 4 years ago

    ^^^....ahh....got it.....Thank you very much.............Joey

    #53 4 years ago

    for sure power handling capacity (watts) is a factor, but for small power pinball machine amp sections a speaker's efficiency rating (Db/1w/1m) is more the deal, higher the better, especially for bass! most the time you can turn it down if needed, but an inefficient speaker you're turning the amp UP might warm the amp.. I'm about a fan of MCMelectronics(dot com) paper cone cloth surround woofers for their very high efficiency ratings and low prices.

    inductors? I've hand wound my own on 1/4 diameter 1-1/2" long ferrite cores with insulated magnet wire. maybe not perfect but using a core requires less magnet wire. 24 gage carefully wrapped about 7 layers (crazyglue helps) made pretty fair low pass for small wattage, not having a meter I couldnt tell what the values for inductance or resistance, but they work!

    #54 4 years ago
    Quoted from 0geist0:

    Why not a separate powered subwoofer under the pin? I picked up a really nice Polk 10" sub for $40. Sounds fantastic on my ST Pro.

    +1 for external subs. Easy plug and play with Lorenzo's $35 board and it will go way lower and louder than any internal replacement

    #55 4 years ago
    Quoted from Damonator:

    +1 for external subs. Easy plug and play with Lorenzo's $35 board and it will go way lower and louder than any internal replacement

    I agree. I replaced my cabinet speaker of my T2 and went through all the steps to help optimize it, but in the end the external subwoofer sounds way better. Way deeper bass and no rattles/vibrations from the playfield glass. The external subwoofer is also 100% easier to install.

    1 month later
    #56 4 years ago

    The 8mh inductor is out of stock on Parts Express with no ETA. Found this chart to calculate the difference going up or down a bit.

    http://www.apicsllc.com/apics/Misc/filter1.html

    *Edit to answer my own question.

    1 year later
    #57 2 years ago

    Question for an old thread: what is the coil like thing for on an old Gilligans Island, and when I upgrade the cab speaker does this get removed, or how does it fit into,the wiring?

    image (resized).jpg

    4 weeks later
    #58 2 years ago

    That is the audio crossover coil which acts as a high pass filter and for the backbox speakers and is wired in series. If you're upgrading the cabinet speaker only then don't remove that coil.

    #59 2 years ago

    Yes, I have been curious on how a sub would sound on my F14. For this price, seems like it worth a try. Thanks!

    #60 2 years ago
    Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

    That is the audio crossover coil which acts as a high pass filter and for the backbox speakers and is wired in series. If you're upgrading the cabinet speaker only then don't remove that coil.

    Yup, only doing the cab speaker. Thanks!

    2 years later
    #61 10 months ago

    Just finished doing this!! Havent even got it dialed right in yet, but can already tell the difference in depth to the sound. totally happy!
    It was VERY easy to follow along with the diagram wrote up in Post#20

    1 week later
    #62 9 months ago

    I also just did this mod following markmon's instructions and post 20 wiring. My TAF sounds awesome now! Many thanks!

    1 month later
    #63 7 months ago

    Since I got this competed and just love the sound in my FT so much I have now got three more full sets to do other pins of mine. After buying Sub/L-Pad/Crossover for each the kits come to about just under $70 CDN including shipping and taxes.
    Believe me, this upgrade is worth more than $70 each for me.

    #64 7 months ago
    Quoted from northerndude:

    Since I got this competed and just love the sound in my FT so much I have now got three more full sets to do other pins of mine. After buying Sub/L-Pad/Crossover for each the kits come to about just under $70 CDN including shipping and taxes.
    Believe me, this upgrade is worth more than $70 each for me.

    Any chance you could share your shopping list? A few of the parts links in this thread are no longer available.

    #65 7 months ago

    These three items plus wire and ends is all you need to follow Post#20 directions.

    I'm mostly pumped to get my WW done, I will be giving the cab a facelift once spring hits. I want to hear it with these "Feel the Power of the Wind"!!!!

    Crossover & L-Pad (resized).jpgSpeaker (resized).jpg

    #66 7 months ago

    Installed::

    For the L-Pad dial, I took a piece of metal and made a squared J shape and drilled a hole in it for the pad to go into and worked great.
    L-pad installed (resized).jpgSpeaker and crossover (resized).jpg

    5 months later
    #67 65 days ago

    Resurrecting an old thread. How do you wire an l-pad to a DCS game, using the original backbox speakers? It appears that the speakers are 8 ohm in parallel, so it’s presenting a 4 ohm load to the sound board. And I don’t see a 4 ohm l-pad device?

    Starting to seem like it’s easier to just add an external sub. Ha...

    #68 65 days ago

    The following is from the very first post - looks to be easy!

    "DCS games (includes wpc95):
    For those that may ask, there is a simpler solution for DCS and WPC 95 games. Simply swap the cabinet speaker with an efficient 4ohm sub. You don't even need a crossover because the cabinet speaker is already electronically crossed over at 300hz. There are two amps in the DCS games. This allows you to only worry about the subwoofer swap without backbox impedance and rewiring. If the cabinet speaker you choose is efficient enough, you can be done. But if not, you can add the L-Pad above or maybe just add a 20 ohm resistor (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=017-20) to lower the backbox volume.

    If you choose to add the resistor, you would desolder the two wires that go to the 5.25" left speaker on the backbox. One goes to the amp, one goes to the right speaker. Separate the wires. Solder the resistor to the + lug of the 5.25" speaker. Solder the wire that goes to the + of the right speaker also to the + lug of the 5.25" speaker. Solder the wire that came from the amp to the other end of the resistor. That's it.

    Finally, for DCS games you'll want to choose a decent and efficient sub. The wh88 will work pretty well as it is extremely efficient. However, it's 8 ohm so it takes some power from the amp away in impedance. I recommend using one of these MCM 10" speakers: http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/55-3211. They are 95db efficient so you may not need any resistors if you use this. You will lose some volume form the small 6" cutout on your cabinet but it's fine. If you choose this option, your entire cost for the DCS addon is around $15 shipped.?

    #69 64 days ago

    Thanks. I think, if I’m reading things correctly, all of the data is based on replacing the backbox speakers. I’m trying to avoid that. Either way, I thought the l-pad stuff all assumes an 8 ohm load, which I think is not what DCS has for the backbox speakers. I’m not sure if an 8 ohm l-pad will work with a 4 ohm load?

    I know there have been other posts about modifying the sound board resistors to accomplish the same thing. Maybe I’ll go that route if I can’t figure out the l-pad solution...

    Quoted from northerndude:

    The following is from the very first post - looks to be easy!
    "DCS games (includes wpc95):
    For those that may ask, there is a simpler solution for DCS and WPC 95 games. Simply swap the cabinet speaker with an efficient 4ohm sub. You don't even need a crossover because the cabinet speaker is already electronically crossed over at 300hz. There are two amps in the DCS games. This allows you to only worry about the subwoofer swap without backbox impedance and rewiring. If the cabinet speaker you choose is efficient enough, you can be done. But if not, you can add the L-Pad above or maybe just add a 20 ohm resistor (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=017-20) to lower the backbox volume.
    If you choose to add the resistor, you would desolder the two wires that go to the 5.25" left speaker on the backbox. One goes to the amp, one goes to the right speaker. Separate the wires. Solder the resistor to the + lug of the 5.25" speaker. Solder the wire that goes to the + of the right speaker also to the + lug of the 5.25" speaker. Solder the wire that came from the amp to the other end of the resistor. That's it.
    Finally, for DCS games you'll want to choose a decent and efficient sub. The wh88 will work pretty well as it is extremely efficient. However, it's 8 ohm so it takes some power from the amp away in impedance. I recommend using one of these MCM 10" speakers: http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/55-3211. They are 95db efficient so you may not need any resistors if you use this. You will lose some volume form the small 6" cutout on your cabinet but it's fine. If you choose this option, your entire cost for the DCS addon is around $15 shipped.?

    #70 64 days ago

    I have 8 Polk subwoofers under 16 games. Hook up in 5 minutes, can hook up more than one game, tons of power and easy to unhook when I sell the game. And you can sell a subwoofer to anyone that owns a tv or stereo when the time comes.

    That said, I'm probably gonna try one of those $20 cabinet speakers just for kicks. I have nothing better to do.

    #71 64 days ago
    Quoted from pinzrfun:

    I have 8 Polk subwoofers under 16 games. Hook up in 5 minutes, can hook up more than one game, tons of power and easy to unhook when I sell the game. And you can sell a subwoofer to anyone that owns a tv or stereo when the time comes.
    That said, I'm probably gonna try one of those $20 cabinet speakers just for kicks. I have nothing better to do.

    Polk 8 or 10" sub's are the best option for sure.

    #72 64 days ago

    I was trying to do it on the cheap. I have a new sub on the way for my sttng, just hoping to gain some control of the balance between treble and bass...

    The damn polk subs went up a lot in price this year, at least the one I own for my tv did..

    #73 64 days ago
    Quoted from pinzrfun:

    I have 8 Polk subwoofers under 16 games. Hook up in 5 minutes, can hook up more than one game, tons of power and easy to unhook when I sell the game. And you can sell a subwoofer to anyone that owns a tv or stereo when the time comes.
    That said, I'm probably gonna try one of those $20 cabinet speakers just for kicks. I have nothing better to do.

    My Fish Takes sounds fantastic with this setup. I love it. I have the parts ready to build in three more pins

    #74 64 days ago

    How do you guys get the wire outside of the cabinet for an external sub? I don’t like the idea of drilling a hole, ha.

    #75 64 days ago
    Quoted from PinJim:

    How do you guys get the wire outside of the cabinet for an external sub? I don’t like the idea of drilling a hole, ha.

    Lift up one of the metal vents on the bottom of the cab in the back, or poke your finger up from underneath, you might liberate one staple from cab/vent but that is the simplest way to pass that wire down through outside the cabinet.

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