(Topic ID: 79115)

How Tight Are Leg Bolts

By steve1515

10 years ago


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    #1 10 years ago

    How do you guys install your legs on your pinball machines?

    How tight should they be? Do you tighten them up only after leveling as shown in the Stern setup videos? That seems kind of strange to me.

    What's the way you guys all do it?

    #2 10 years ago

    I tighten the bolts down ever so slightly until the game is upright. Once the weight of the machine is on the legs, I will tighten them more. This will reduce the risk of cabinet damage around the legs. As to how tight to go, I make them very snug but not so tight that I can't force it any further. I will usually nudge the machine a little to make sure it feels right.

    #3 10 years ago

    Once the corner starts to groan, lay off.

    Seriously though, I use about the exact same procedure as betelgeuse.

    #4 10 years ago

    Cross threading the inner bracket keeps the leg from coming loose, the last two games I bought were like this and were a bitch to remove

    #5 10 years ago
    Quoted from Chuck_Sherman:

    Cross threading the inner bracket keeps the leg from coming loose, the last two games I bought were like this and were a bitch to remove

    Usually ends up in a snapped both during removal AND a new inner corner plate. Pain in da butnicks...

    #6 10 years ago

    Snug, son!

    #7 10 years ago

    I could say something but the ladies here would blast me!!

    #8 10 years ago

    I have a torque wrench for working on the Mustang and it would be interesting to learn if Stern recommends a torque rate.

    #9 10 years ago
    Quoted from steve1515:

    What's the way you guys all do it?

    With the game supported, I tighten the bolts finger tight, then hold the leg up (to prevent the legs from scraping the decals when the weight is on them) and snug the bolts. The holes in legs are pretty big compared to the bolts. Take out the slack before you put the game down. I do this even if I use leg protectors or the game doesn't have decals. Doesn't take much longer and just makes sense. Once all 4 legs are snugged, I'll put the game down and really crank on the bolts. Most of my games are on location, so I can't have legs coming loose. I'd guess maybe ~50 pounds of torque (car lug nuts are usually ~75 PSI). Just a guess though.

    #10 10 years ago

    I usually jack the game up on the HF lift table, put the legs on (while forcing them upward as phishrace mentioned) and make them tight. I don't usually crank on the bolts after I set the game down but YMMV.

    Actually, I recently bought a clear pair of PinCab protectors. I went to install them using the method I mentioned above. I knew to stop cranking when the plastic protector shattered.

    #11 10 years ago
    Quoted from dmklunk:

    I knew to stop cranking when the plastic protector shattered.

    Yup. I'm going to install metal protectors and then put the plastic ones one top to hide some decal damage.

    I didn't even think that my brackets might be cross threaded...let's hope not!

    #12 10 years ago
    Quoted from silverball0:

    I could say something but the ladies here would blast me!!

    I have some legs wrapped around my head right now to prevent me from saying some of those same things... oh, and they're tight...

    #13 10 years ago
    Quoted from Betelgeuse:

    I tighten the bolts down ever so slightly until the game is upright. Once the weight of the machine is on the legs, I will tighten them more. This will reduce the risk of cabinet damage around the legs. As to how tight to go, I make them very snug but not so tight that I can't force it any further. I will usually nudge the machine a little to make sure it feels right.

    It's not good to tighten a bolt with a load on it. They will wear out fast that way. I tighten the legs while the machine is on the lift table. Before it becomes snug, I put my foot under the leg and lift it up. This accomplishes the same goal of not letting the leg ride up and hurt the art, but does not stress the bolts and nuts. I tighten them pretty tight. I'll have to measure with a torque wrench at some point!

    #14 10 years ago
    Quoted from Patofnaud:

    Usually ends up in a snapped both during removal AND a new inner corner plate. Pain in da butnicks...

    Have new nut plates, at least they are cheap, thinking about making them a must replace item on all pins. Especially if selling.

    #15 10 years ago
    Quoted from MustangPaul:

    I have a torque wrench for working on the Mustang and it would be interesting to learn if Stern recommends a torque rate.

    I was wondering this, as well. I have a torque wrench and would gladly tighten legs to spec.. any guesses?

    #16 10 years ago
    Quoted from John_I:

    It's not good to tighten a bolt with a load on it. They will wear out fast that way. I tighten the legs while the machine is on the lift table. Before it becomes snug, I put my foot under the leg and lift it up. This accomplishes the same goal of not letting the leg ride up and hurt the art, but does not stress the bolts and nuts. I tighten them pretty tight. I'll have to measure with a torque wrench at some point!

    Agreed.

    #17 10 years ago
    Quoted from Patofnaud:

    Usually ends up in a snapped both during removal AND a new inner corner plate. Pain in da butnicks...

    I recently bought one with two cross threaded bolts...front right, back left. Where did you buy the cabinet bracket? I can't find them anywhere. Williams, 1994.

    #18 10 years ago
    Quoted from Deaconblooze:

    I was wondering this, as well. I have a torque wrench and would gladly tighten legs to spec.. any guesses?

    Just have to remember what grade metal we are working with, only a grade 5 I'll bet for bolt and plate so I would say 60lbs at most. If everything were grade 8 I'd say CRANK THAT BABY TILL THE WOOD SMASHES.

    Now where's my torque wrench....out in the frozen garage.

    #19 10 years ago
    Quoted from Pimp77:

    I recently bought one with two cross threaded bolts...front right, back left. Where did you buy the cabinet bracket? I can't find them anywhere. Williams, 1994.

    http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=144

    #20 10 years ago
    Quoted from Pimp77:

    I recently bought one with two cross threaded bolts...front right, back left. Where did you buy the cabinet bracket? I can't find them anywhere. Williams, 1994.

    If you have the factory crap ones in, leave them in and get the big heavy aftermarket plates and put them over the originals. Drill out the tiny #6 screw holes that mount it to the cab and put #12's in.

    #21 10 years ago

    Ah, sweet...I checked Pinball Life and didn't see them before. Thank you!

    Quoted from MustangPaul:

    If you have the factory crap ones in, leave them in and get the big heavy aftermarket plates and put them over the originals. Drill out the tiny #6 screw holes that mount it to the cab and put #12's in.

    Worth a look, thanks.

    #22 10 years ago
    Quoted from Pimp77:

    Ah, sweet...I checked Pinball Life and didn't see them before. Thank you!

    Worth a look, thanks.

    That's what I did to my HS and they are ROCK solid.

    #23 10 years ago
    Quoted from John_I:

    I tighten the legs while the machine is on the lift table. Before it becomes snug, I put my foot under the leg and lift it up.

    I should have mentioned that I do put upward pressure on the legs when I first put them on. Otherwise, how is tightening the bolts further with the machine upright bad? Bad for the bolts??

    #24 10 years ago

    16 newton meters of force......

    joking snug them up lower the game and give it a make sure they no longer turn.

    no need for torque

    5 years later
    #25 5 years ago

    Just found this info on another forum

    ---------------------------------------------

    The leg bolts require 36-38 N.m of torque.

    Best regards,
    Chas Siddiqi
    Stern Pinball Tech. Support

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