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How the heck do I remove this?

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By Spraynard

3 years ago


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  • Started 3 years ago
  • 14 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by ChrisHibler

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#1 3 years ago

I'm trying to install a cliffy protector on my BSD rat hole, but I've hit a wall. The posts that flank the hole, which also will hold the cliffy, seem to be impossible to remove! Under the playfield there is a nut, which I removed. The playfield side of the post is totally round, nothing to grab on to. It seems to be threaded through the playfield, and very tightly so. I've tried squeezing it with a wrench and turning, but progress is extremely slow, plus I'm just thrashing the post (rubber goes over it, so I don't really care about that). Is there some trick for removing these that I don't know about? Here's a picture... http://i.imgur.com/MiJcb.jpg


#2 3 years ago

Easy, this type is pressed in. Lightly tap it out from the bottom with a hammer. Have your hand on the playfield side to catch it.


#3 3 years ago

You need the wrench called "Vice-Grip".

Lock it down vertically. Gently spin while pulling. Don't pull too hard or you will rip out a big chunk of top wood when reach the end.

Once the threads get to the wood, it will start coming out easily as it turns.


#4 3 years ago

If you are going to use a hammer, make sure you leave the nut spun down to the end of the threads. Otherwise the hammer can mess the threads up.


#5 3 years ago

I never had a problem damaging the threads, but I guess it could happen. Anyway the nut on the end will keep it from flying into the cabinet if you miss the catch. Win/win.


#6 3 years ago
SealClubber said:

I never had a problem damaging the threads, but I guess it could happen. Anyway the nut on the end will keep it from flying into the cabinet if you miss the catch. Win/win.

A Mechanic would have a brass hammer or a brass punch to dislodge bolts from the threaded side.

Mere mortals back the nut out to the ends of the threads, LOL.


#7 3 years ago
vid1900 said:

SealClubber said:I never had a problem damaging the threads, but I guess it could happen. Anyway the nut on the end will keep it from flying into the cabinet if you miss the catch. Win/win.
A Mechanic would have a brass hammer or a brass punch to dislodge bolts from the threaded side.
Mere mortals back the nut out to the ends of the threads, LOL.

Silly Mortals


#8 3 years ago

Lol, I just love fixing things with hammers. Don't know why. Whacka Whacka Whacka!


#9 3 years ago

Although I must also admit I love fixing things with a hammer, if it's threaded there are a couple of choices. Wrap the post with electrician's tape, at lest three layers thick and then use vice grips or channel locks. You may have to replace the electrical tape once or twice as it gets torn up.

Sears sells a product called Robo Grips which, at least used to, include plastic sleeves you could place over the teeth to prevent marring.


#10 3 years ago

Video instruction for a patented hole guard:

» YouTube video


#11 3 years ago

Hammers ? Take your cordless drill and chuck the post into the drill chuck and simply spin out .. Looks like you need to take off the wire form first .

Jim


#12 3 years ago

I've always done the hammer method myself.


#13 3 years ago

Hammer method worked a charm. I don't know why I thought they were threaded through the pf. Better safe then sorry.


#14 3 years ago
McCune said:

Hammers ? Take your cordless drill and chuck the post into the drill chuck and simply spin out .. Looks like you need to take off the wire form first .
Jim

Ditto. Works perfectly. No damage.
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