(Topic ID: 220818)

How long did it take you to adjust to LED?

By Schamattack

5 years ago


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    #1 5 years ago

    Ok so I just installed all new 2 SMD Frosted LEDS into my Inserts from Comet into my NGG (just the underside, topside is still bulbed). I love how much more it pops but man after about 15 minutes my eyes were loosing it. Is this something Ill get use to?

    #2 5 years ago
    Quoted from Schamattack:

    Ok so I just installed all new 2 SMD Frosted LEDS into my Inserts from Comet into my NGG (just the underside, topside is still bulbed). I love how much more it pops but man after about 15 minutes my eyes were loosing it. Is this something Ill get use to?

    Try one smd frosted instead.

    #3 5 years ago

    You can also bend back the insert poles to get about a 20% reduction...or above, or give it a week or so...
    If you are leaving the GI incandescent, I would go less bright. If you are LED the GI, it will even out much of the light....

    #4 5 years ago

    Use comet 4 SMD everywhere plus in certain spots the 4+1... Soon as I put on the sunglasses I'm adjusted with no problems!

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    #5 5 years ago

    tried LEDs a few years ago, went for the full rainbow effect
    now removing most of the colored bulbs in favor of white frosted

    #6 5 years ago

    What you need is an LED/OCD board. It smooths the instant on and instant off of LED's. That instant on and off is what drove me nuts when I first starting using LED's.

    #7 5 years ago
    Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

    What you need is an LED/OCD board. It smooths the instant on and instant off of LED's. That instant on and off is what drove me nuts when I first starting using LED's.

    For the LEDs in GI another option is a 5v switching power supply. They are cheap, easy to wire in for most games and provide a nice smooth dc. Eliminates the 120hz flicker causing a strobe light effect when the ball moves fast. They usually have a trim pot and you can adjust them from about 4.5v to 5.5v which gives you some brightness control.

    Here is slo-mo comparing normal AC vs switching dc ps for gi.

    AC

    DC

    #8 5 years ago

    Wow great vid, thx!

    #9 5 years ago

    I always sand my leds if I'm putting them in the GI

    #10 5 years ago

    Its intense, I am using all white frosted, didnt try any color matching etc. After a few more rounds im getting much more adjusted. I ended up removing 2 12v flashers from in front and putting back in the incandescent's, eyes seem to be doing much better after that.

    #11 5 years ago
    Quoted from Schamattack:

    Its intense, I am using all white frosted, didnt try any color matching etc. After a few more rounds im getting much more adjusted. I ended up removing 2 12v flashers from in front and putting back in the incandescent's, eyes seem to be doing much better after that.

    Yeah never use LED flashers.

    #12 5 years ago
    Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

    What you need is an LED/OCD board. It smooths the instant on and instant off of LED's. That instant on and off is what drove me nuts when I first starting using LED's.

    2nd this - Herbs little board lets you dial in the brightness to your liking. It also gets rid of any flickering/ghosting/strobing effects from the LED's clipping the power supply voltage. Use "warm" white LED's for your GI if you're looking for more original lighting.

    #13 5 years ago

    LEDs are great if done right, even without LED OCD . Unfortunately folks seem to just throw the brightest thing in there and don't spend the time to see what really looks best. I've had great success with warm white 2 SMD Comet clear or frosted domes(your preference) for GI and for inserts cointaker frosted premium no ghosting color matched to the inserts.

    #14 5 years ago

    I'm a die hard incandescent guy, but since I have games out on route, I've decided to go the LED route on those for now. I've seen enough games to know what I don't like and that's the "rainbow bomb" or the "retina burn" that seem(ed) to be popular. I just went with the simple approach. 1SMD 5050 warm white frosted in everything with the ghostbusters in the controlled lamps. Decided to skip color matching inserts, again, to keep it simple. These are the only two I've done so far. Both pictures taken with the same camera in the same room with the lights off.

    The DH has all the 555 in the backbox. The Avatar is still the fluorescent tube.

    IMG_20180707_134756 (resized).jpgIMG_20180707_134756 (resized).jpgIMG_20180709_001807 (resized).jpgIMG_20180709_001807 (resized).jpg
    #15 5 years ago

    2 smd are too bright for most inserts imo. Maybe large inserts. Did you put leds in the gi? I don't like it when people mix incandescent bulbs and leds. It needs to a balanced brightness. I never tried the ocd boards but you do need to turn off dimming. I like Comet bulbs. I noticed other cheaper bulbs can look "off" and less easy on the eyes.

    #16 5 years ago

    Idk with the frosted lens the 2 smd are kinda nice in my opinion, Played for a few more hours last night and even the wife complimented on how much better it looks lit up that much more. I only put LEDS into the 555 slots. I messed up my first order and only ordered 555's when I meant to get also the 44's. They should be here this week so I can try some in the upper play-field and the few slots on the underside that use 44's. I ordered a few color matching 2 smds for topside under the plastics, hopefully its tolerable. If not I will back down to the 1 SMD's on the top.

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