I recently was asked how I recreate broken, faded, or otherwise less than desirable plastics. I should state that I only reproduce plastics for myself and don't sell or redistribute them.

I start out with good quality scans of the original plastics at 300 dpi.

Scan1.jpg

I then bring the scanned image into Photoshop and clean the image a bit. From this point forward I spend most of my time using the Pen tool to create the vector artwork. Learn how to use it. The Pen tool is your friend. There are many good tutorial videos and articles on the internet that show how to use it. Of course familiarity with Photoshop is a plus.

Using the Pen tool, I start out by creating outlines of the plastics and removing anything from the image outside of the plastics themselves. This includes removing anything between the printed artwork and the edges of the plastic.

Outlines.jpg

I then select all of the black areas in the plastics using Select->Color Range, and convert that to a working path and then rename and save that path as "black". Then, using the Pen tool, I fix all of the areas that need adjustment (this can be time consuming) and finally create a new layer and fill the path with black. Here you can see the black shown with the plastic outlines.

black.jpg

Following this, I use (you guessed it) the Pen tool to create a path for the different colors. In areas where the color meets a black edge, you can be sloppy and let the red edges bleed into the black areas since the black layer will always be on top of any color layers. It's a simple matter of selecting the path in the dialog and filling that path with the correct color.

red.jpg

I continue this process for each of the colors, creating new layers as i go for each color.

green.jpg
yellow.jpg

After getting all of the color layers completed, using the Pen tool, I create paths for where the holes will be drilled.

colors.jpg

This file could then be used to create silk screens, or with a vinyl printer (my method... it's way cheaper and looks quite nice). When the vinyl image has been applied to PETG, I use a scroll saw with a very fine blade to cut out the plastics and a drill press to drill the holes.

In the end, I have a very new set of looking plastics that look much better than the old originals. This is especially handy where reproductions are not available

Jeff

Yes. The printing company I use uses the paths I create for the edges of the white color for where the plotter cuts the vinyl. They look really nice... I'll be posting a picture of finished product in the High Hand machine soon.

Jeff

Here is a shot of the plastics installed in the High Hand machine.

HighHand.jpg

Jeff

I scan them myself using the original plastics. If you don't have the originals, you would have to have someone scan them for you (300 dpi), or see if you could borrow a set to scan.

Jeff

The print shop I use does it for me, so I really don't know. I think they really enjoy it when I walk into their shop. They have done many prints for me for various restorations, including an entire playfield (look for my Strikes and Spares restoration thread). The graphic designer that I typically work with to do the prints thinks it's cool to be working on something other than making signs.

Jeff

I use Photoshop because that's what I have. When it comes down to opening up my wallet for more software or more pinball stuff, I usually opt for the pinball stuff. I have no doubt that Illustrator would be the tool of choice. Perhaps someday when I get tired of working around things in Photoshop, I'll spring for it.

Thanks for the kudos. It's quite rewarding. I haven't really considered doing work outside of things for myself, but I might consider it depending upon how busy I am.

Jeff

The printing company I use has the capability to print exactly what I want (white, clear, colors, etc.) based on the artwork I provide them. I don't know the exact answer to your question, other than to say I get what I want from them

Jeff

Yep... local shop that I have established a good reputation with. They advertise themselves as a full service sign shop (from small stuff to big bucket truck things). If you are interested in having them do work for you, PM me and I'll get you their contact information.

Jeff

Here are a few up close images of the slingshot plastics for a better look at the quality.

IMG_0412.JPG
IMG_0413.JPG
IMG_0414.JPG
IMG_0415.JPG

Jeff

Yep... that's pretty much it. They have been kind enough to source the PETG for me, but other than that, you are correct.

Jeff

Very good point! I'll keep that in mind next time. The pinside crowd has been very nice and is a helpful bunch of folks with a common interest keeping this wonderful activity alive.

Jeff

Agreed. I have tried 600 dpi in the past and the files just get too big. 300 dpi works quite well for me.

Jeff

I have used Gimp in the past as well, and while a great program (especially for free), I find that I prefer working in Photoshop (CS4). The print shop that I use also requires either Photoshop or Illustrator files. They use the paths embedded in the file created by the Pen tool to "cut out" the clear areas (i.e. between the artwork and the edges of the plastic, other clear areas on plastics like where the captive balls are on Embyon, etc. ).

Once I get the Time Warp backglass done that I'm working on, I can put together a more in-depth tutorial on recreating plastics. For those interested, you can see progress on the backglass here in a thread I started on restoring this Williams classic: http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/time-warp-restoration

Jeff

I have done that to recreate areas on the playfield of my Embryon machine (for making water slide decals of high traffic areas). It's a bit more tedious, but certainly doable.

For a complete PF reproduction, I scanned an entire Strikes and Spares playfield and recreated the artwork in my computer and had a new vinyl print laid down on the old playfield (with the artwork sanded off and 2 coats of base clear coat). You can see the result here: http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/strikes-and-spares-restoration

Jeff