(Topic ID: 272209)

How I recreate insert artwork

By Atari_Daze

3 years ago


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  • 20 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Waxon
  • Topic is favorited by 20 Pinsiders

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#1 3 years ago

How To Recreate PF Artwork using Photoshop (PS) and Illustrator (AI) the Atari_Daze way

Most of what I’m going to cover is covered by VID1900 in his awesome and lengthy restoration topic but I figured I’d post my method for this in a single topic.
Over the past couple of restoration projects, I’ll be approached by a Pinsider asking how I did this or that, I felt if one person asked, there might be a couple more interested. So here is one way to do this.
I’m a complete amateur who does not use these tools daily. Thus, there are likely more efficient, better ways to go about this. This guide assumes one has the basic knowledge set for scanning and editing images and is using Photoshop and Illustrator.
This guide is for insert text and keylines but the principles would hold true for graphics also, those would be just a little more involved.
We start with a scan of the insert we wish to work on. This one is in black and white, but one could work in color.

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#2 3 years ago

Once the scan is cleaned up, i.e. the surrounding areas are trimmed out, I create the keyline. I typically completely re-create a keylin based on the scan, starting with just finding a brush tip slightly wider than the scan. In this case, a 12.

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#3 3 years ago

Now simply draw your keyline with the pen tool. Make multiple points at which you can make the rounded corners using the convert point tool, and then stroke your path. The example below shows but a few of the points, but it should provide enough guide to finish going around the shape and creating the new line. I’m working from an example I have long finished so I will be ‘fast forwarding’ in many cases.

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#4 3 years ago

What comes next is where Vid would say, separates the men from the boys. Could one use this to print waterslide decals, sure, but often w/o the next steps in AI, the output could be choppy, grainy and downright ugly. Here is where Illustrator comes to use. (it might be able to be used to create these shapes and things but again my limited level of knowledge has had me develop the method in which I’m illustrating)
Save the .psd and open it in AI. Then TRACE the image, this converts the file to vector format.
Once traced, EXPAND the image.
Then you can separate each line by UNGROUP.
Once un-grouped, each line, arc and curve etc can be smoothed for that perfect finish that the scan could not achieve.
Using the DIRECT SELECTION TOOL, one can see all the little points that are currently making up your shape before using the smooth tool. Again, THIS example was already smoothed once so it is essentially already done.

Once smoothed to personal satisfaction, I will save the .ai file and then export back to a PSD file.
This will allow me to use it back in PS and scale it w/o problems.

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#5 3 years ago

Once the shape is done, I can focus on the TEXT, this gets fun! (no, not really)
Font matching: There are online tools and even a built-in tool in Photoshop that might help, my experience is that trial and error proves more accurate. I’m not going to go through the entire process of the trial and error just know I start at the top of the loaded fonts and then just go one by one until I find as close a match as possible.

For this example, it seemed that SWISS 721 was a close match. From there, I simply play with the text height, width, spacing, orientation etc until I’ve fine tuned the loaded font to match the desired result.
This example shows the final adjustments had a 20pt size, spacing was 60, height of 85%, width of 95%, color black obviously.
Ok, once I’m happy with the font, it’s time to take it back to AI.

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#6 3 years ago

Using the same methods as above, save as .psd, trace, expand ungroup etc, we can see the font becomes fouled!

WTF, it was created in PS and then imported into AI, both Adobe products but alas, it now no longer passes muster. So, I no longer go through this step, I go to my process below:

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#7 3 years ago

Again, perhaps there are better ways to do this, but I’m not that smart. SO, I simply RETYPE my text matching the formatting I found in PS, in this case, vertical text, Swiss 721, 20PT, 85% high and so on.

Save file as .ai, export as .psd or .png. Dealer choice.
NOW we can open the files in PS and finally make our waterslide decal for this ONE.
This is also where if the text or image was to be used to cut a template via your Cameo or Cricut, we would export as a .dxf file that the cutter could directly open. (Topic already covered elsewhere on Pinside)
Use the keyline image for others of the same size, reconstruct your text on other inserts and then put the two layers together in PS for export of a .png file for your sheet of water slides.

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#8 3 years ago

That’s all there is to it. Feel free to ask any questions about the process I may have skipped over. Feel free to make suggestions on how to more efficiently use these two tools. I’ve highlighted how to do this with pay tools like PS and AI. You may have free tools you use that can be explained by those folks that have them.
Happy Restoring

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#9 3 years ago

I do everything in Inkscape. Not clear why you don’t do everything in Illustrator?

Why draw outlines in Photoshop and then trace them?

I just make the scan a layer in Inkscape and redraw on top in different layers.

#10 3 years ago

What printer and material are you using? I look forward to trying this. Also, maybe you or pinside could start a repository for work thats already been done? It would be a great resource if work like this and 3d work relating to pinball were available rather than everyone keep reinventing the wheel

Thanks!

#11 3 years ago
Quoted from Jackster:

What printer and material are you using?

Well the seller of paper I was using appears to not be selling anymore.
ebay.com link: str
I'll be trying more sources on the next project.
As far a printing, after ruining multiple sheets of the stuff with the printer I had (nice little Samsung color laser) I just started taking my stuff to FedEx Office.
Color runs like $1.00 / sheet and black is like $0.18 or something ridiculous like that.
I think the repository idea was killed before by the copyright snipers.

#12 3 years ago
Quoted from dr_nybble:

Not clear why you don’t do everything in Illustrator?

Why draw outlines in Photoshop and then trace them?

As I mentioned, I simply dunno how.
I've spent hours and hours learning this method. I'm sure one day I'll figure out more tools in AI but hey, it works.

#13 3 years ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

Well the seller of paper I was using appears to not be selling anymore.
ebay.com link
I'll be trying more sources on the next project.
As far a printing, after ruining multiple sheets of the stuff with the printer I had (nice little Samsung color laser) I just started taking my stuff to FedEx Office.
Color runs like $1.00 / sheet and black is like $0.18 or something ridiculous like that.
I think the repository idea was killed before by the copyright snipers.

Depends on the item, I guess. You could have basic stuff - shapes, numbers, etc. If there is no artwork, I dont think there'd be an issue...
Thanks for the info!

#14 3 years ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

As I mentioned, I simply dunno how.
I've spent hours and hours learning this method. I'm sure one day I'll figure out more tools in AI but hey, it works.

Me too. I know how to use all the pen tools etc. in PS 6.5 and below (yes, from the early 2000's) - I had Illustrator 7 and nothing worked like I thought, and I just can't adjust.

I redraw schematics so not as critical, but it would be nice to draw it in vector so I can grab shapes etc. easier, and I should probably learn how to use a purpose built schematic drawing tool instead.

#15 3 years ago

Thanks for taking the time to share!

#16 3 years ago

Thanks for sharing your methods. I’m currently doing a rerheme so all the art is being redone. I’m using Graphic ($30) on my Mac since the price of AI is too rich for my blood. Does everything I need. My art is scanned and imported to iDraw as the bottom layer. Another layer is added that is used to trace over the art.

Because it’s a retheme I’m not concerned about matching fonts.

#17 3 years ago

Boost!! Another helpful post from Atari_Daze! If you haven't done so check out his full-on restoration posts (including backglass art) he's really earning his cred!

5 months later
#18 3 years ago

No entendi mucho la parte de como colocar las letra en Photoshop y como seleccionar la tipo de fuente, que ya tengo mis inserts listos, solo falta colocarles el numero y letra

#19 3 years ago
Quoted from Waxon:

No entendi mucho la parte de como colocar las letra en Photoshop

I use the preloaded fonts in PS. Then the various characteristics are adjusted to match the original font.
You may have to Youtube tutorials on how to use PS, that is what I do when I don't know how to do something in that often complex tool.

#20 3 years ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

Utilizo las fuentes precargadas en PS. Luego, las diversas características se ajustan para que coincidan con la fuente original.
Es posible que tenga tutoriales de Youtube sobre cómo usar PS, eso es lo que hago cuando no sé cómo hacer algo en esa herramienta a menudo compleja.

Es una herramienta compleja, buscaré algo acerca de esto, gracias

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