Try this:

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vid1900s-guide-to-rebuilding-flippers-now-available-performancepinballcom

It is pretty easy, follow the guide posted above and you will be fine. Honestly I thought the hardest part was gapping the flippers while keeping them aligned and tightening the paws (I don't have a gapping tool so was using a credit card, but couldn't cut it cause I need it!)

You need to be somewhat mechanically inclined as you can reassemble the parts in an incorrect way (in other words, there is more than one way the parts can go back together but only one correct way). This can be mitigated by taking many pictures of each flipper before taking it apart so you have visual clues on how it should go back together.

You need soldering skills to replace the EOS switch and capacitors (if needed on your machine) and to unsolder the coil so you can work on the flipper on the bench instead of hanging upside down under the playfield. When un-soldering and re-soldering wires, I find it helpful to put a small numbered piece of masking tape on each wire before un-soldering and take a picture that clearly shows all numbers and where they connect. It is really hard to tell the color of wires from pictures for me, especially when one is black with orange and one is black with red or something...

My advice is to get a decent repair kit (pinballlife kits are great and the cheapest around). Be sure to add the appropriate playfield bushing to the parts (they don't come in the PBL kits). In addition to the kit, I would replace any scoring switches on the flippers too (EOS switches come in the PBL kits). You didn't indicate how old your machine is, but on 20-30 year old machines, these scoring switches are typically all bent up.

This is also a great time to replace the flipper bats. On later machines, the flippers operate with quite a bit of torque and many bats are cracked inside (you can't see it without removing the flipper). On my "very routed" F14, all 4 flipper bats were cracked!

Finally, when rebuilding a Williams 3-11 era machine, give consideration to upgrading the design to the more responsive flipper layout with the external flipper return spring. Parts and steps to do so are included in Vid's guide linked above. This can be done with about $3 in parts for a pair of flippers. This mod makes a noticeable difference in the return action of the flipper.

Not difficult. Take pics before hand and don't make any shortcuts.

When I started out, I would only do one flipper at a time, that way I had the other side to verify.. and yes TAKE PICS..

And if the first one doesn't work when you are done. Stop there and get help. Don't forge ahead and screw them all up.

LTG : )™

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers

Latest version.

Correct - same as DE and Sega (Stern's heritage).

The ultimate goal is to have a dead-straight line that the ball is able to roll across the inlane guide and onto the flipper at rest with no change in angle or jumping or anything. You can use a straight edge when aligning the flipper to keep it all straight.

RM

Take pics, yes, but also refer to the manual diagrams. Someone before you could have assembled something incorrectly.